RX7 1993 wont run,,,,expert advice
 

hello everybody,,,,
once again im banging my head on the floor,,,,i still cant get the rx7 running

heres how far i am,,,,,i for the 2nd time did a compression test to be 110% sure compression is good.( i get 120psi,,,bot rotors all sides)...good compression from what i read.

spark plugs are new but theres one thing bugging me (mazda supplied me with 4 trailing plugs which they said was correct,,,i rung a specialist and they said that they can be run on 4 trailers,is this true? (or should i buy 2 leaders)

i checked spark plugs for the 5th time ,,, all spark plugs seem to fire fine and consistently,,,including both leaders firing together and the 2 trailers fire in turn,,,,spark doesnt appear to drop out or anything..
is it possible for timming to be out (i read that its all computer controlled)...another thing im reading about is the igniter module could this be messing up the ignition timming or signal.

ive tried doing all sorts of experiments with ignition leads and plugs,,,,including just plugging in both leaders or both trailers,,,,im now completly confused...i get weird results off all....some times fires on one rotor some times on both(for a few seconds) some times doesnt fire barley at all. (ive also noticed all this cranking my oil has turned to piss,,,,is full of fuel does this indicate an overfuelling problem.

could it be a faulty fuel pressure regulator dumping way to much fuel.?

any ideas would be greatly appreciated,,,thanks guys

what are your mods?

no mods mate completely standard apart from cat back exaust,,,, i just checked my ECU diagnostic ,,,it flashes out the code for metering oil pump position sensor open or short circuit....could this be related to my problem,,,,and what exactly does this mean.

no in limp mode the fuel and timing are fixed. do you have fuel press?

what does this mean limp mode,,,(my engine has just been rebuilt),,i havent done a fuel pressure check yet,,,,,,if i conect pressure gauge in fuel line what should pressure read?
so will the oil metering pump in no way at all affect my starting or running?

the omp will not cause your car not to start. You need three things to start; fuel, spark, compression. You have ruled out the spark and the compression so you have a fuel problem. Is the pump running, i think the pressure should be about 40 psi. FWIW my fd recently was starting and dying after about 1 to 2 seconds. I changed out the pump, the igniter, the map sensor, the water thermo, the crank angle sensors, etc......nothing worked and it was very frustrating. Finally figured it out the boost controller was shorting out the ecu and in turn shutting the fuel pump off. Anyway good luck and I hope your problem is not a complicated as mine ended up being.
Fritz

are you sure your getting spark??? how did you test this?

are you sure your getting fuel to the fuel rail/engine?

de-flood your engine

pour some ATF in there

get new plugs, 7's on leading, 9's on trailing

(NGK BUR7EQ for leadings, BUR9EQ for trailing)

try to fire, take a video if you want some help from the online crowd

put about 2TBSP in each rotor housing of auto tranny fluid (ATF)

CHECK ur oil meter pump and wiring. YES, this can cause
it NOT to start. because it cuts the spark and fuel is FLOODING out the engine. thats why u got a lot a fuel on the oil.

that sounds like some good info if the omp cuts the spark. does this accur if its hooked up or only if the wiring is not hooked up or bad? sounds strange because some people run with bad pumps or don't have pumps.

sorry just saw that u have fuel in the oil. change the oil if it smells like gas running very long on it will wipe out the turbo bearings. de-flood the engine like 93blkfd said, he is a better reader than I. the omp malfunction will not cause the car to not start it will fix the timing to limit damage to the engine if you drive it with the omp not working.

ok guys ill give you a little more info..
ive pulled the fuel pipe of the fuel rail,,,and theres plenty of fuel there but havent done a pressure test yet...but im gonna do that today,,,,,
as for checking spark plugs ive pulled them all out and had them connected to the ignition leads while cranking,,,both trailers fire nice and in turn,,,and both leaders fire together and constant,,,,there doesnt appear to be any drop out of spark at all... (iv e had all the coils out and checked them with a testing meter and all are withing specification and appear to be working normaly....ive even checked out the ignition leads they are all fine,,,plugs are brand new)

as for the unflooding procedure ive tried this about 300 times,,,,as im checking stuff round the engine then trying to start it again,,,,i keep unflooding and cleaning and drying the plugs.
i have once last tiny bit of info,,,,,i can eventually get the car started on one rotor and it runs lumpy,,,,but as its running the other rotor seems to fire intermitently when the engine starts to get hot,,,,so whatever the problem heat has some affect...
could it be a dodgy INGNITER,,,,

another silly little thing,,,,does the oil metering pump fault really affect anything....some say it may cause problems others say not,,,,,but i will work on fixing it to eliminate it from my list...:D

ohh and sorry last thing,,,this is a new rebuilt engine,,,,i bought the car broken,,,wasnt sure why it was broke....but bought it,,,ripped engine out and rebuilt for fun,,,,but now wont run

maybe you're finding out why the car was broke now :) just kiddin..

i was just reading about metering oil pump im gonna fix that,,,,gotta eliminate it,,,,,,,and yes i think this maybe why i got the car cheap,,,they sent it all the way from japan,