Rotary Reliability
Hey what's up, I really like everything about the FD's but I've heard that rotary engines tend to pretty much eat themselves because they run so hot. Also I've heard that once a seal goes it can destroy your entire engine. I'm not sure how true those statements are but if there are anyways around them then I may just have to buy an FD! Oh also what's the average milage you guys get on your 13B's and 20B's? I'm just wondering because if I buy one I'd like to swap out the 13B and replace it with a 20B. Thanks for the help guys =)
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20b Swap is 30k or more just letting you know.
Also the average 13b-REW depending on stock boost can easily see over 120k if taken care of. More boost = tougher on seals means less miles. |
30k or more?! Wow why so much? I found a Cosmo front clip for $4,500. I reallize that I'll need to replace some seals and stuff but $4,500 and 30k is a big difference lol
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Lets just say this isn't the car to purchase if you care about fuel mileage. And a 20B swap isn't exactly easy as noted by the price mentioned in the previous post. This car is not cheap.
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Originally posted by 20b4me 30k or more?! Wow why so much? I found a Cosmo front clip for $4,500. I reallize that I'll need to replace some seals and stuff but $4,500 and 30k is a big difference lol 2. Lots of custom engine bay stuff to do. 3. Aftermarket radiator for sure. Many other small things that make the price go sky high. |
Oh ok, So how hard would it be to put out about 400rwhp with a 13B. Could I do it with under 10k of mods? That's what I'm looking at doing. haha I reallize they have horrible gas millage but I figure the look of the FD and the sound/power of the rotary engine is more than enough to compensate for bad gas millage ^_^
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Originally posted by Fatman0203 Also the average 13b-REW depending on stock boost can easily see over 120k if taken care of. More boost = tougher on seals means less miles. I don't know where you're getting your data from, but I doubt there are even 100 FDs that have made it 120k on the original engine out of the entire U.S. production run. If you think it's as simple as changing your oil regularly, it may be -- if you're running stock boost and you're easy on the car, and you let it cool down before parking it. However, there are also people who have blown their engine or overheated at stock boost levels. Furthermore, if you modify the car, chances are anything BUT good that you'll see 120k miles on the engine that's currently in the car. There's nothing "easy" about getting an FD to 120k miles on the original engine. If it is, explain to me why everyone makes such a big deal about it when it infrequently happens... |
Originally posted by 20b4me Oh ok, So how hard would it be to put out about 400rwhp with a 13B. Could I do it with under 10k of mods? That's what I'm looking at doing. haha I reallize they have horrible gas millage but I figure the look of the FD and the sound/power of the rotary engine is more than enough to compensate for bad gas millage ^_^ |
single turbo conversion to a bone stock car is easily over 10k. And i mean EASILY.
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Originally posted by fastcarfreak single turbo conversion to a bone stock car is easily over 10k. And i mean EASILY. |
If your mods have to go on a budget, I'd suggest another car. Something always comes up that you didnt expect to pay money for. I hope you do some more research before buying one.
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I priced a very conservative single turbo setup (shooting for about 450hp) for someone last week - using japanese prices - it came to around $13k (a touch more, actually)
- that didn't include a lot of the reliability mods that you would definitely need if you wanted longevity - that didn't include any brake or suspension upgrades (!) - that didn't include ANY tuning or installation (as those prices vary wildly) The general consensus from japanese and australian workshops is that a 13brew engine will require an overhaul (on average) at around the 100,000km mark (which is about 62k miles?). Though, obviously, most people run them until they pop. |
That's US$13k, BTW - and by japanese prices, I mean - the price you would pay off the shelf IN japan
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I've got 15K in mine not counting the price of the car and I'm going to be real close to 400 with upgraded twins.
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Stuff for our FD's costs an arm and a good dozen legs! ><
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You can always do the LS1/T56 conversion for around 7K and have base 320hp. Put the other 3K into larger thottle body, cam, and NOS and you will have well over 400 rwhp with better reliabilty and better gas milage. And did I mention the 6 speed tranny.
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How much money you spend on a project is a direct result of how much research you do before hand. My advise to you is research,research,research. Now having said that, I'm hearing claims of 13k for a reliable single turbo conversion. You guys do realize that if you have the mechanical know-how that a 20b could be installed for less than that with stock twins making 400rwhp and be reliable because of the engine being under far less stress than the 13b would?
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Originally posted by Fatman0203 There is ALOT of custom work to do. 1. because the 20b's computer works ONLY with an automatic. Its very hard to get a computer (Petit makes one I beleive) |
Originally posted by SVT Squasher You can always do the LS1/T56 conversion for around 7K and have base 320hp. Put the other 3K into larger thottle body, cam, and NOS and you will have well over 400 rwhp with better reliabilty and better gas milage. And did I mention the 6 speed tranny. If thats the case , why the hell buy a Rx 7 in the first place... Go get some shitmoblie and mod that out. That way you would not be wasting another Rx 7. Too many 7s had been lost that way .... |
The rotary suffers from cultural lag. When it is accepted as much as a piston engine and money for development is poured in. I believe the rotary will and can be reliable or at least more rotary mechanics will come around and prices for rebuilds/matainance will drop.
I have daily driven my FD for 2 years and it has probably seen 5-6 months total downtime to fix little stuff. With the FD it is always necessary to have access to a 2nd car. The reliablity in my book gets a 2 out of 5. But being a true Rx7 owner your paranoid at least 3 times a week driving your car, i.e. checking your temp gauge every other minute to make sure your coolant temp is up to par and changing up what times you drive to avoid traffic (this will definately kill you). but from a drivers perspective, it is one hell of a ride for the price and i would say a piece of history that is legendary. The FD drives top notch and it doesnt compare to anything else you can buy for under 20 grand. Patience is a must with this car. If you have it and can accept the consiquences of how much money you are going to be putting into this car. Then the FD is by far the best thing that will happen to your life. |
ps. i just re-read my post and i think i suffer from denial
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Hey scratch that is a cool signiture you got there what the hell is it.:cool:
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its me when my FD is actually running properly with no oil leaks.
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:rlaugh: :D
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Originally posted by SomeGuy_sg If thats the case , why the hell buy a Rx 7 in the first place... Too many 7s had been lost that way .... |
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