Removing rear iron only for engine work-advice needed
 

I know its been done before so how do you hold together the rest of the engine's water seals while working on the rear iron? and or rear housing if necessary?

Someone recommended a giant C clamps? Anyone who has done this please chime in.

Don't half ass it. Pull the engine and do it right.

As soon as you release the tension bolts you'll have oil and water soup going everywhere. You also would have to drop the oil pan and transmission. With that amount of work, just pull the damn motor - takes like 3-4 hours to get the motor out.

Dale

ive had to do this on a couple of occasions. both with new or nearly new engines that had been dropped in shipping or damaged in an accident. both engines were in race cars, so we didn't have time to wait for a new engine/part

both engines were out of the car. so it was easy to clamp, or whatever we did (its been 10+ years), both engines were fine, however they both had fresh water seals.

i would not try this if the engine had had more than say 7 laps on it

Yea the engine is out and down to a short block and then some, so no oil and water soup. its soon to be on a engine stand also making it possible to rotate.

Im asking what parts/method/clamping points have been used to hold together the rest of the engine while removing only the rear iron on a 13brew.

Use a bolted down header or header flange on the exhaust side and a clamp along the the top where the bolts go for the rats nest. Then use another clamp on the rear rotor housing webbing on the oil pan side. That should hold everything tight enought to not have to re-silicone everything.

Good luck.