removed thermowax -> what to do with the coolant lines?
 

Hi guys!

This is my first 13B REW I'm doing now (full non sequential + emissions removal)

I have maybe a dumb question about the coolant lines which run trough the thermowax element. I've searched but did not really find a answer.

I have found two ways:

the first way is to block of the nipple on the water pump housing and on the rear iron. Rotary Resurrection is doing it this way. I don't trust this way to block them off, had problems with this method on different BMW's (but they are running 2bar coolant system pressure)

The other way, which i like more, is to loop them together with a hose. Is this ok to do so? Will it harm anything like flow from the front to the rear of the engine?

Thanks for your answers!

I've looped them before, and I've JB welded the nipple shut as well. Looping lines works fine.

If you do the JB weld method, you need a CRAPLOAD of the stuff. Fill the hole part way and let it sink down in there set overnight. Then fill it again until it is literally overflowing--might have to fill it 2 or three times.

Few ways to do it.

First, if the motor is in the car, you can either run the stock hose from the rear nipple to the back of the water pump housing or just run that hose to the nipple on the rat's nest nipple just below the throttle body. This keeps the loop going. Just make sure that the hose is run so nothing is crushing it or rubbing against it to cause a leak down the road.

Next is to cap the two nipples up. Caps you get at the parts store WILL fail over time, I don't recommend them. If you are going to cap, use a piece of the stock hose with a bolt or some other plug pushed into it and clamped off. Doesn't look as sexy as a rubber cap, but it won't fail on you.

If the engine is out of the car and you wanna get hard core, pull the nipples out (they're press fit into the water pump housing and rear iron, might need to just drill them) then tap the holes and screw in a pipe plug with Teflon tape. Or, weld them shut.

I don't recommend using JB Weld on this, there's too much to go wrong. It can work, but you want to be POSITIVE it won't fail.

BTW, this is from someone who has seen a LOT of FC's with various methods of capping the nipple and seen many methods fail. You gotta do it right. Any of the above methods will work and work long term.

Dale

thank you both for your input. I will buy a water hose from the local hydraulic store an loop it!

Don't use generic hose, use Mazda's coolant hose. It's rated for the temperature and pressure and fits properly. Generic hose will very likely give you problems down the road or not fit right.

The hose has to be SNUG on the nipple, not loose and then use a hose clamp.

The stock hose from the rear iron nipple to the throttle body is perfect for running to the back of the water pump housing.

Dale

thanks for your input to, I won't use anything witch doesn't outperform normal automotive requirements!

I've had mine looped for a few years with no issues. Like many (and as DaleClark pointed out in a dedicated thread) that line makes a great place for an aftermarket temp sensor which I wanted to maintain after deleting it from the throttle-body. I did double clamp everything and cut a section of old hose out to keep it from rubbing anything.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...l052medium.jpg

Getting the air out of the water jackets is always challenging when filling the cooling system. I always remove the hose from the TB top port and use it as a high point vent when filling. I would keep the feature and not plug it.