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-   -   Removed alarm system, now drivers window switch wont work. (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/removed-alarm-system-now-drivers-window-switch-wont-work-811905/)

skir2222 01-09-09 12:20 PM

Removed alarm system, now drivers window switch wont work.
 
My alarm system shorted out, and was causing the alarm and windows to go off, up and down when i wasn't around.

So yesterday I started removing it take the wires off from where they came from and the ones where i couldnt get to where they started I cut them short.

so now my problem is, my drivers side window switch does not work at all, the passenger side does and no its not the door lock. I checked out the schematic, I followed the harness for the drivers door and it all looks good. no connections branching off from it some im lost at the moment.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=driver+window

So I am believing the problem is coming from the DR1 up/down part and is not past the fuse since the passenger window works fine.

I don't know what color W/L stands for or where to hell to find the damn wire so I can get this window going up and down.

I am asking here first before I loose my mind...

whoever installed the electronics in my car did not care about being clean because it was a speghetti ball of wires right by the brake, also hooked up the cd player power wire to the battery connection.

skir2222 01-09-09 01:01 PM

W/L stands for white/blue. Since black also starts with the letter B

skir2222 01-09-09 07:32 PM

Anyone?

badddrx7 01-09-09 07:39 PM

W/L stands for white/blue - that is correct. L = blue



later

skir2222 01-09-09 09:30 PM

damn, guess no one has had this problem. I wish I had a manual window :( this isn't cool.

AnthonyNYC 01-10-09 03:14 AM


Originally Posted by skir2222 (Post 8864582)
damn, guess no one has had this problem. I wish I had a manual window :( this isn't cool.

Sometimes when moving things around down there the door harness on the passenger side may come loose, it happened to me once. The door harness is the one with the huge connector that is visible with the passenger door open.

Just make sure it's nice and tight, push it in from both sides. I hope it's that easy!

Anthony

skir2222 01-10-09 09:46 AM


Originally Posted by AnthonyNYC (Post 8865366)
Sometimes when moving things around down there the door harness on the passenger side may come loose, it happened to me once. The door harness is the one with the huge connector that is visible with the passenger door open.

Just make sure it's nice and tight, push it in from both sides. I hope it's that easy!

Anthony

Gotcha, but the pass. window switch works fine. It's the drivers side that dont work. Today I do plan to unplug the X-20 connector and follow the white/blue wire and see where it ends up.

3x dope 01-10-09 09:58 AM

Are you refering to removing .....
 
an aftermarket alarm? If so, it sounds like someone may have had a "window module" in there to make the windows go up (or down on command) when the alarm is "armed" . If so, cutting those wires and not reconecting a pair of them to recreate the loop that feeds the master window switch on the driver's side may be the cause.

skir2222 01-10-09 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by 3x dope (Post 8865603)
an aftermarket alarm? If so, it sounds like someone may have had a "window module" in there to make the windows go up (or down on command) when the alarm is "armed" . If so, cutting those wires and not reconecting a pair of them to recreate the loop that feeds the master window switch on the driver's side may be the cause.

Yep, already removed it. That seems to be the exact problem, just need to find the wire and follow it.

3x dope 01-10-09 12:31 PM

Your best bet is...
 
to remove the driver's door panel and unplug the master (driver's) switch. You will then be able to readily identify the wires that have been cut and extended into the cabin. Also, if the install quality was as bad as you say it was, then you don't want to trust any of the wiring the PO had done. Make your "reconnections" at this location. This will also eliminate any future potential for problems and effectively put the wiring back to stock and avoid the possibility of failure due to two or three splices down the line that you may not be able to see at this point. After 25 plus yrs of car audio and security installs, I know not to trust wiring I didn't put in. Good luck:icon_tup:

skir2222 01-10-09 02:10 PM

Well I removed all the spliced wires that I can see with my eye.

There is a power wire with fuse, orange, and white wire left I followed them up by the joint box panel looked in between the fender and see that they run into the door.

I tested the window lock and it doesnt work on stopping the passenger window control.

so you think those wires went into the factory connection in the door and over rode it?

skir2222 01-10-09 02:35 PM

Ok, after thinking about it. The wires that go into the door panel must of been cut into the factory wiring since they were powering the window. tomorrow i'll take off the panel and check it out.

skir2222 01-11-09 11:18 AM

4 Attachment(s)
here ya go

skir2222 01-11-09 12:18 PM

window works now :).... I'm goooood....

skir2222 01-11-09 12:18 PM

Who wants to see how much wiring is in a alarm system in my car?

in the 4th picture, you can see how the used a hose clamp to attach the factory actuator rod to the aftermarket one.

3x dope 01-11-09 03:18 PM

See what I mean...
 
Looks like you got it covered:)

skir2222 01-11-09 06:30 PM


Originally Posted by 3x dope (Post 8868528)
Looks like you got it covered:)

Yea, you can also see in the first picture the black/white wire wasn't even crimped into the connector.

So I stripped the wires, soldered them, and wrapped em up. I love soldering, it's fun :)

skir2222 01-11-09 07:34 PM


Originally Posted by 3x dope (Post 8868528)
Looks like you got it covered:)

Thank you for assisting me in fixing this problem! :)

3x dope 01-11-09 10:26 PM

no sweat
 
:icon_tup:


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