Rebuild or new engine?
So I have a 93 R1 with 76k miles on the original engine and BNR S3 turbos with close to stock boost. I've started tracking the car, so I want to make sure that everything is solid and reliable. I have a proper A-spec single turbo kit ready to bolt on as well.
The car currently runs fine, but I think it would be wise to refresh things before continuing to do more track days and driving harder and faster. I am not fast so big power is not the goal, just want a reliable set up so I can concentrate on driving and not so much intake air temps and boost leaks. Here are a few options I've been considering and want to see what you would do: 1. Drive it til it breaks and rebuild. I've been told that this puts risk to the housings so may not be the wisest decision. Also potential to ruin a track day, plus cost in towing and making a mess on track. 2. Buy a new engine from Mazda...I don't feel the need to open it up and port the engine since 350-380whp is way more than what I need for a road course. 3. Pull my engine as is and rebuild...then I might as well open it up and port it at the same time. What would you do? |
Why not do both?
Find a junk engine to supply as a core then buy a new engine. Swap the new engine in, then rebuild the current engine in your leisure time. That way you'll have a replacement engine on hand for if/when you need it :) |
I’d compression test your existing motor. Also verify cooling and fuel systems are up to snuff. If all checks out then leave it and don’t create a problem where there isn’t one. There are going to be plenty of things that need your time and attention to track a FD regularly so don’t bog yourself down on non-issues. Hows your tune? When is the last time it was done? That’ll have more effect on your motor life on track than most things. |
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I have brand new engines on sale for $4549 this week. This is a 100% brand new Mazda oem short block down to the last nut and bolt. Includes new oil pan, flywheel, oil injectors, etc. 1 year/12,000 mile warranty. They are the best deal by far to start with all new parts, whether you drop it in as is or disassemble for a build. Ad the cost of brand new rotor housings to most builds and it would be more cost effective to buy a new motor. No core required either. |
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