Rebuild Costs?
Hey guys - I'm new to this forum and to RX7s as well. Recently inherited a 93 RX7 TT and it's been sitting for over a year. Apex seals are shot, dunno what else is wrong. What does it typically cost to rebuild the motor? What needs to be rebuilt / replaced on a high mileage (110k miles) generally? How much would it cost to DIY vs having the dealership do it? Thanks for your help.
|
Originally Posted by 98ssht
Hey guys - I'm new to this forum and to RX7s as well. Recently inherited a 93 RX7 TT and it's been sitting for over a year. Apex seals are shot, dunno what else is wrong. What does it typically cost to rebuild the motor? What needs to be rebuilt / replaced on a high mileage (110k miles) generally? How much would it cost to DIY vs having the dealership do it? Thanks for your help.
|
Are you sure that the "Apex seals are shot"? I would take the car to an RX7 specific shop and have them tell you what is wrong with the car. Don't ever take an RX7 to a Mazda dealer. Most of them don't know what they are doing with the rotary (ALthough maybe this changed since the RX8 has been around).
I knew a guy who picked up an RX7 REALLY cheap because the previous owner took the car to a dealership and they told him the car needed a rebuild. The new owner simply replaced a couple of vacuum hoses, and the car ran perfectly. I would do a search on this forum and find out where the closest RX7 shops are, who can rebuild the motor and how much it may cost. You may even look into putting a JSpec (used) motor into the car. |
2 to 3k
|
Originally Posted by 98ssht
Hey guys - I'm new to this forum and to RX7s as well. Recently inherited a 93 RX7 TT and it's been sitting for over a year. Apex seals are shot, dunno what else is wrong. What does it typically cost to rebuild the motor? What needs to be rebuilt / replaced on a high mileage (110k miles) generally? How much would it cost to DIY vs having the dealership do it? Thanks for your help.
However, at 110k miles, if you do need a rebuild it's not going to be cheap. You can pick up a Mazda remanufactured motor for about $2600. However, that's just the beginning. I would imagine the turbos will be worn out, you'll need all new coolant, fuel and vacuum hoses. New oil metering lines and nozzle injectors, new/reconditioned fuel injectors and the list goes on. |
`DIYRE` ?
|
Just sell the car cheap ;)
|
A full and proper R&R with a good rebuild at an FD shop is going to be in the $4-7k range, not counting bad turbos or other parts. The cost will vary due to how much actually needs to be replaced.
|
If the engine still has the original engine and ignition harness's and fuel pulsation dampner, that is another $900+.
|
Thanks guys. Does anyone know of any reputable rx7 shops to go to in Michigan? Or would anyone be interested in helping me on the rebuild?!! I do not know for sure that the apex seals are what cause the owner to park it. This is just what I was told when I came into the car. Is there a definitive test to determine if this is the cause?
Thanks |
Yes, a compression test.
|
Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
If the engine still has the original engine and ignition harness's and fuel pulsation dampner, that is another $900+.
|
The cost is going to vary greatly depending on what NEEDS to be replaced. You need to find out alot more about the engine's condition.
http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...ion_check.html ^this is a good start As far as turbos, you can pick up a working used set for relatively cheap, try to rebuild a set, or go with BNR upgraded stock turbos. Beyond that you're going to be spending alot more money on a single setup. |
Originally Posted by alexdimen
PD I can see replacing... but wiring harnesses? That's a little over the top.
|
125k on my harness and it is still pliable...
I think it depends on how the car was driven and where it was driven. Just because it has over 100k on it doesn't mean it's bad or isn't going to last. With a price tag of over $750 for the engine harness, it's worth inspecting and even repairing if there are only a few wires cooked by being above the turbos. |
Originally Posted by alexdimen
125k on my harness and it is still pliable...
* either you aren't feeling over all of the harness (i.e. some of the smaller lines like the thermosensor * the harness has less miles on it than you think unless you are the original owner of the car since '93 * it has been rewrapped in areas The main loom doesn't get brittle, it's the smaller lines and the connectors. The heat makes them brittle and they just fall apart when you start removing it. I've seen more than my far share of FD stock harnesses and most of them are cooked by 60k miles. |
I believe you, but I think it's worth inspecting and doing minor repairs to avoid the cost.
Anyways, good luck with the compression test. |
Thanks guys - a lot of good info. But now I'm curious about this whole harness frying thing. If the harness is replaced will it just be fried again down the road? Is there a permanent fix for this?
|
where are you at in michigan?
|
You can bring it down to Columbus Ohio. www.rx7store.net
I agree with what others have said, that a lot depends on the condition of the motor and accessories. Jason |
Rochester, Michigan
|
Thanks Jason, I checked out the website. Didn't see anything on rebuilds though??
|
You have 3 good options in the Midwest.....
*A-spec in Chicago *Banzai Racing in Indiana *rx7store in Ohio |
Originally Posted by 98ssht
Thanks Jason, I checked out the website. Didn't see anything on rebuilds though??
|
Originally Posted by 98ssht
Thanks guys - a lot of good info. But now I'm curious about this whole harness frying thing. If the harness is replaced will it just be fried again down the road? Is there a permanent fix for this?
Summit Racing Xtreme Tape |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:48 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands