pep boys should have it, they are registered distrubutors for it...i found the funnel at car quest
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I bought mine online. It was about $5 more than Pep Boys because I had to pay shipping.
-s- |
scotty,
so what was your cost with shipping? online store? |
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i remmeber this thread.
i still havnt made it down to pep boys... lol |
Originally Posted by Axis8758
scotty,
so what was your cost with shipping? online store? I paid $25 including shipping, but I don't remember the online store. I think I used the first one I found on www.froogle.com . Search for "Lisle 22150" . -s- |
i have a lisle funnel but it takes a lot of idling to get the air out of the system. anyone have experience with tools like this one to purge the system:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Uview...spagenameZWDVW its also a cooling system pressure tester. |
Coolant Funnel
After you leave the car running with funnel, do you turn of engine and then remove funnel... or plug funnel and then turn off engine...
Thanks W |
I got one of these also, these things are great.
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Question: I'm using this radiator funnel now, bubbles are coming out but the fluid began turning brown. Is this anything to worry about?
Also the funnel started overflowing so I've shut the car down to allow it to settle. |
brown - seems like you didnt totally flush it.
overflowing - the coolant expands when it gets hot |
Also as it warms up, the thermostat opens, and without it being sealed, the flow from the water pump overwhelms the lower radiator hose.
Sevensix: can you post another link to that product. |
I found mine on the Snap On Tools truck that drive around the local dealerships. It was only $32.
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thanks for bumping this thread. i was looking the other day for information on this elusive radiator funnel!
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Hey Guys, sorry to bump this thread but I have a Napa part number for this funnel, i was hard at work (still hard at work lol) reading posts and came across this thread. So I figure "Hey i wonder if we have one of those on the shelf" and we do.
Ultra Pro Part Number is 79392 That is Napa in Canada Hope this helps Mike |
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Sorry to bump this old thread... My FD puked a bunch of coolant from the overflow tank, so I've been spending a bunch of time reading the big coolant thread which led me here after I replaced the filler neck cap and the AST cap (had a 1.1bar cap on it, replaced it with a 0.9bar cap).
Using the Lisle funnel, I did get quite a few bubbles out of the coolant system after revving the engine and turning the heater on. Took two cycles from engine cold to hot, then warm to hot again. Now when I shut the hot (~230 degrees F) engine off, I no longer hear bubbling/gurgling sounds while the car cools down. More importantly, no champagne bubbles were observed. Two questions remain:
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1. Yes, I think 230F is hot enough to boil for most water/coolant mixes. It's definitely hot enough to boil pure water. Remember there is no pressure in the system when the funnel is installed, the pressure would have happened with the cap on.
2. I think there are others, but I haven't looked into ASTs for a while. Hopefully someone else can chime in. Also, I've recently seen similar funnels but made with clear plastic instead of yellow. What a good idea. |
I've never been a fan of the Pettit AST. It can work, it's just a poor design. Nipples are too small, the cap flange can distort, etc.
RX7.com has a nice AST - RX7.COM | FD Engine Cooling To answer other questions, yes, it's normal for the coolant to boil when open like that. That's why normally there's a pressure cap, to raise the boiling point. Dale |
+1 that the RX7.com AST is good stuff. Rotary Performance also sells a good AST which is what I have on my car (RX7.com AST was sold out at the time).
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Originally Posted by Speednut
(Post 12429022)
Sorry to bump this old thread... My FD puked a bunch of coolant from the overflow tank, so I've been spending a bunch of time reading the big coolant thread which led me here after I replaced the filler neck cap and the AST cap (had a 1.1bar cap on it, replaced it with a 0.9bar cap).
Using the Lisle funnel, I did get quite a few bubbles out of the coolant system after revving the engine and turning the heater on. Took two cycles from engine cold to hot, then warm to hot again. Now when I shut the hot (~230 degrees F) engine off, I no longer hear bubbling/gurgling sounds while the car cools down. More importantly, no champagne bubbles were observed. Two questions remain:
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Full overflow tank can also be from a failed radiator cap, the line from the cap to the tank having a small hole, or the system having a leak and overheating/boiling.
It's possible it's a coolant seal in the engine but that's one of a few possibilities. Dale |
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 12429074)
that's one of a few possibilities.
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Thank you so much everyone who responded!
@scotty305 - Yup, the funnel I got via the amazon link above was clear. Made it easy to check for champagne bubbles indicating a bad internal engine coolant seal as per the big coolant thread. Thank you for confirming the boil over condition. @DaleClark and @SpinningDorito - perfect info on the alternative AST, will be ordering one from RX7.com tonight. :D Also thanks Dale for the FC thermoswitch info from long ago. I'll be looking into making that change soon too. @TomU - yeah I shared your concern and was worried about the internal engine seals which was why I wanted to try the Lisle funnel to get more info. My motor only has 38k miles on it, so it would suck if it already needed a rebuild... I didn't mention that I took out the passenger side fender liner and did a visual inspection of the overflow tank. It looks to be in great condition surprisingly and I didn't see any issues at the tank neck. I think it's time to give the car a wash and see how she does on a drive this toasty weekend (100+ degrees predicted here), but not stray too far from home. I do have a Defi water temp gauge installed, so I don't have to rely on the dashboard "ur effed" temp gauge. ;) |
Heat is the Achilles heal of these cars. Think it's detailed well in the Big Fat Cooling Thread. Koyo radiator, R-1 passenger oil cooler (if you can get one), downpipe and you should be GTG. More radical steps include relocating the battery, V-mount and ditching the A/C (condenser sits in front of the radiator)
My seals went at high 50's, but use contributed more than mileage (tracked it). Hopefully yours is due to a pressure leak as Dale mentioned. But keep an eye on the tell tale signs. The aftermarket temp gauge should really help you know when things are getting a little too warm |
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