the thread that max had was just a text description where he mentioned that he had to cut the carpet and other fitment issues. If you go back to the orginal group buy thread in the GB forum someone posted the link.

Looks great!

Nuvolari,

sounds like you got a great bar!

The cost of the Raceshop bar varies depending on the options that you want. The GB prices are still listed in the Group buy forum.

Larry's bar is extremely nice as it's chromoloy (much lighter than most roll bars such as the Kirk) , has a removable rear diagonal so you can increase rear visibility during dailing driving, and design to fit so snugly in the compartment that it doesn't interfer with any seat travel. It's really amazing how "stock" this bar seems as it seems to have been made from mazda to fit the FD exactly.

**note if you got the main hoop diagonal it will impede some passenger seat travel.

You been out eating Mexican food without me?

still have to install mine...wish it would warm up here already...it was -3f this morning...

and beer too!!! I'll bring some to the next auto-x :wink:

....I think that's the only way I can slow you down :)

My bar, it has to be the strongest part of the car.


http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e/346abafd.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e/DSCN0028.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e/DSCN0029.jpg

.

Looks like it will work fine, but I don't think it "blows the doors off " the raceshop bar.
For a street car I would not want to have to look behind me through a jungle gym like that.

looks good

For the bolt in bars it would be a good idea to use thick, large diameter (od) washers where the bolts go thru the body to prevent them from tearing out if you actually have to USE the rollbar! Fender washers are too thin, but maybe 2 or 3 stacked would get you by...

In order to pass any legit tech inspection, you'll need backing plates (simply using washers won't cut it). And if you look back on page 2 you'll see that a fairly substantial backing plate is provided.

-Rob

The backing plates that are included with the bar are .187 (3/16th) thick and grade 8 hardware is provided.

Larry

My thoughts exactly! I got rid of my Kirk rollbar because Raceshop rollbar seemed to be better for looking behind..

I am interested if any one has rolled a FD with one of these bolt on bars ? Honestly I dont mind loosing some rear visibility for saftey with my custom bar. I havent seen the raceshop bar in person but the Kirk doesnt appear to be that strong if you roll over the car. It does "look nicer" but thats not what it was installed for.

Nuvolair,
This will be my one and only post directed to you.

1. You already have a roll bar that you stated "blow the doors off" mine.
You also bumped the thread so more people could check it out ! Cool :ylsuper:

2. Your not in the market for a roll bar.

3. All of the specs for my bar are in the the group buy thread, feel free to compare the materials and process of assembly to NHRA and SCCA rule books.

4. I'm happy that you are proud of the bar you purchased.

5. Do you know fatma or hang out with him ?
A yes or no answer if fine because this the end of the discussion , at least for me.


Thanks for your time

Larry

Larry, always a gentleman. Can't wait to get my bar :)

Wow I feel proud I got a personal reply :)

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ckwheat023.jpg

You lost me raceshop, I like my bar but I know its far from perfect. But its strong ...very very strong. And that was my goal installing a bar. I was close to ordering a Kirk but I have a good welder thats local and knows 3rd gens .

I didnt diss on your bar, but had a general question regarding roll over with a bolt on bar. I see the mounting area is critical but how well does the lateral bar that can be removed hold up under the load of a roll over ?

I found these of a few Miatas with bar, they seem to be in good shape but the lateral bars look welded in place.


http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...h_m2sport9.gif
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...sh_hbsport.gif
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3..._m2sport10.gif

The Raceshop bars meet NASA and SCCA requirements for rollbars. For racing. That's good enough for me. And you pretty much DID come in here and dis the Raceshop bar. Please check your PMs....

I posted this info in another post but ment to put it here............
I just got back from Larry's shop tonight. The pictures Larry posted give the cage no justice.The install of the cage is one of the cleanest I have ever seen. No need to question any of Larrys judgments. I didnt plan on getting a roll bar or cage because I'm 6.4 and didnt think it would fit me but after I seen the install......I considered it because of how sick it looked. Definetly no need to worry about the Race shop. I would recommend this shop for sure. Thanks for letting us check out the shop Larry.
Buy the way....I love the double shear machined parts, fiirst shop I seen use this set up, what a bad ass idea...WAY STRONGER!

can this be done again? i would like to get one of these now! :)

Bringing this back up for Larry and others to comment on what I have going on while installing right now.
The "foot" plate for the main hoop - doesn't sit anywhere near flush to the floor. Well, it does sit near for three of the holes,(i.e. they are parallel to the floor), but one is not even close, and the side of the plate sticks down into the floor and when/if I were to tighten the bolts, it would clearly push through the floor, or dent it pretty significantly. What am I missing? Pitures attached. Notice the side shot.
I assume the plates are supposed to be flush up against the outside, and back towards the "rib" that runs left to right across the car. Even if I space it a little forward, its looks the same.
????
-Bob

^^^^

Looks fairly par for the course. Everything "pulls together" when you bolt it up.

I'm not comfortable with "pulled together". I see plainly that the other three bolts will pull flat to the floor - and eventually, that will as well - but it it looks like the bent down part should be bent back up again after the hole to follow the contour of the floor and not push down into and possibly through the floor pan?
Later today, I'm going to trim as much of the caulking away to put it flush up against the wall to see if that helps. My other thought - if the top plate is formed like this - why is the bottom plate flat? Is it supposed to be further forward in the car - i.e. closer to the seat mount?
Anyone have pictures of their lower plate like this one?
BTW Larry, I may need to give you a call- I think two bolts were missing from mine.
-Bob

Bob, I installed mine this summer and had the same concerns as you. I did end up flattening mine prior to bolting it down so it sat flush with the floor. Mine did not come with backplates due to buying it used on the forum. However, as you also mentioned, I did not like the flat plates. Since I had to make my own anyways, I molded them to the contours of where they would be bolting up to. I also ensured there were no sharp edges. If I was going to continue to track this car after this year. I think I would do some welding and some type of bracket reinforcement for the main hoop attachment points if I was going to continue with this car. I'm prob. not tracking it after this year though :D

Are these cages still being made, can someone provide a link to the sellers website, thanks.