R1/R2 suspension setup for base model...I have $1000 to spend.
 

Okay, I have about a thousand dollars to spend and am looking at getting my base model to have a similar suspension setup or better than an R1/R2. I don't want to change my stock rims and tires.


Can someone give me some recommendations on an awesome setup...shocks, roll bar, etc....similar to the r1/r2 or any other recommendations?

If you have a 93, the only suspension difference between a base and R1 is slightly stiffer shocks.

For 94 and 95, the base and PEG/PEP models got smaller rear sway bar and softer shocks and bushings. R2 models retained previous size bars but had slightly softer shocks and bushings than 93.

IMO, its a waste of money to upgrade to an R1/R2 suspension, when you could get a nice coilover setup for $1,000. for just under $1K, you can get an adjustable and race-proven Koni Yellow and Ground Control coil over. or for just a little extra, you could go for a nice TEIN HA coilover kit.

if you dont want to go the coilover way, at least get uprgaded springs (H&R, Eibach, Racing Beat) and some aftermarket struts (Koni, Tokico) will be better than just uprgrading to R1/R2 status.

just my .02

JoeD is 100% right. R1 suspension is stiffer shocks, R2 suspension had stiffer shocks than other 94s but not as stiff as the 93 R1.

I upgraded to Eibach springs with GAB R shocks, handling is better on smooth pavement, worse on the rough stuff.

Jeff

I have the HD Bilsteins with H&R springs, and it is a nice set up for something that's under $700. Don't forget to set aside $100 for a good 4-wheel alignment.

M2' toe and trailing links are great too and make a big difference in handling. You also should upgrade your front swaybar mounts.

This may start getting off tangent enough that I should post in the suspension forum, but I never see anyone mention camber kits on RX-7's. Does the factory suspension allow for positive camber adjustment? Or does the vehicle just not gain that much negative camber when dropped? (I noticed that the stock camber for street adn race setups is slightly more negative than I usually see)

Also, based on the stock skidpad and handling being so great, do the addition of groud controls and koni's actually increase the cars handling ability? I would imagine it would be pretty easy to screw up something already so find tuned.

The '93 R1 had Showa shocks and springs. The '94 R2 had softer shocks and softer anti-roll bars. Maybe you should see if someone is parting out a '93 R1.

Both. When FDs are lowered they don't gain much camber due to awesome front and rear double control arms. The suspension is fully adjustable for camber front and rear, so no camber kit is required.

Adding stiffer springs and shocks will definetly reduce handling ability on bumpy roads. The car will tend to skip around more than it used. My car has mildly stiffer springs and GAB R shocks and it definetly feels better when I auto-x it.

Jeff

If you interested in R2 suspension, I have my R2 suspension for sale.

frank69m, what are you looking for by doing the suspension upgrade?

if you are wanting to auto-x or road race, then go with some aftermarket shocks and springs/ coilovers (for all you ASP people). i had the GAB Super R's and liked them for competition, but not for daily driver usage (a little too stiff for me). i switched over to koni yellows and i'm very pleased with the results. :) i'm sticking in the SS class so springs are not open.

not much has been said about sway bays, but they are equally as important for cornering performance (especially in auto-x/solo racing). i have a tri-point engineering front sway bar, but have yet to tweak it from it's mid-mount setting. addco has a pretty good sway bar and they're are some other aftermarket ones available too. search the suspension forum and you'll find a lot more info.

lastly, alignment, alignment, alignment. one very cheap thing to do is just change your current setup (camber, toe, caster) and you'll find that you have a very different beast. i run -1.3 degrees camber all-around; 1/16" toe out front; 1/16" toe in rear, +6.0 degrees caster. the steering response is a lot quicker than the standard NTB "put everything to zero". now add in the adjustable shocks and you can spend all day playing with the settings to get the best response from your FD.

i know you said that you didn't want to change your tires ... but they do make a big difference. course, a good set of ultra-high performance tires can run you ~$800 and max performance tires can push you out ~$1000.

but, if you're interested in drag racing or just better road performance, you may want a different setup than what's being suggested. hope this helps.

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I don't plan to auto-x. I used to have an 99 M3 and I loved the steering and handling. The base 94 rx7 I have can handle a little better, but I was looking for a little more steering feel. The M3 had the best steering I've ever seen in a car. I'm also looking at getting my 7 to corner a little better. Ocassionally, i get a little slip. And yes, my tires are fairly new (2000k only on them). I have Bridgestone RE730s