R-Magic Power Ignitor
 

Does anyone have any experience with the R-Magic Power Ignitor? I am about to get my over two year rebuild of my USDM '94 Touring on the road and already have newer stock coils, a HKS twinpower and Chris Ott's from Rotary Performance coil rewire directly to the battery to beef up the ignition with NGK 7420 iridium plugs, 9 leading, 10 trailing. Going to hopefully get 425rwp at 19 psi out of a heavily modified still twin system(Hitachi KAI's) with significant thermal management upgrades everywhere. I believe the current ignition should be fine with around 500-550cc's of WMI and hopefully no breakup. I don't want to switch to the IGN1A coils, which would be better, since I have a problem with placement or room due to added systems in my setup along the lower frame and my desire to keep the cruise control. To add a level of cushion, has anyone used the R-Magic Power Ignitor? Is it overall better than the HKS twinpower, which I know works differently on the spark vs. the R-magic? Can you use both together?
Thanks
Mike

I've yet to hear of anybody running it - in fact, your post and my subsequent Googling is the first I've heard of it. For the price (around $600) it's a LOT of money.

People have successfully made your level of power on the Twinpower before. I think you have plenty of spark for your goals. Also I don't see it being a problem in a dyno session, you're not going to be spark-limited.

Good thing is you can easily install that in like 2 minutes at most any point in time down the road. I doubt it would require a retune.

Dale

It is indeed pretty expensive new. I would try and find a used one if it works well. I have heard that some of our friends Down Under have been using it for several years. Anyone of our Aussie friends have any experience?
Mike

I saw the price and you might as well get a whole plug&play set of AEM coils from Sakebomb Garage. They have sales several times a year and you can pick up the whole set for just a few dollars more than the R-Magic igniter. Then you can sell the Twin Power as well and get $300-$400 back.

I second that for the price you might as well get the Sakebomb igniton kit. 4 brand new smart coils, wires, and harness eliminating reusing 25+ year old parts and trying to bolster them with an igniton amp.

Yea, if you're prepared to spend that much then getting the sakebomb kit would be a better buy. It would be 2 for 1 as in you get brand new coils and the boost in spark that you're looking for. Its a win win.

Sounds like AEM coils in the stock location would be the best all around solution for you. But I have not seen anyone with stock location mounts for these coils.

You'd be better off with custom mounting the IGN1A coils which are well proven to work, then gamble that the R-Magic Ignitor is going to work better than the HKS.

One of the dubious vendors down here is/was flogging them, but haven't heard any reports. Amazing space difference up top single v twins, I'd expect it would be stupidly tight with all the crap running twins with a 1A set.....and the early rats nest and the extra junk on the upper manifolds you have to negotiate over there.

As another possibility, lots of the skyline gtst/gtr 32+ boy racers here are running 35 coils. Not sure of duty cycle, output, etc, but believe Slides has been running them for a little while on his set-up successfully, if space was a big concern.

Just saw this thread, i have a billet coils r35 coil on plug kit as mentioned above. My car is running an autoexe intake, twin pass SMIC and 3.5 inch exhaust, plan is to go med/large single and water injection soon. High flowed sec injectors. As much top end boost as the wastegate cans allow, i was seeing about 1.05 bar peak on the apexi hand controller however i have a denso 3 bar map sensor and it only reads mid 90 something kPa at sea level with the engine off so in reality it is probably peaking real close to 17psi.

I did get some top end missfires with factory ignition. I installed fine wire plugs similar to yours and the coil on plug kit and there was a significant improvement from idle quality to top end without changing dwell. I will get around to designing individual from and rear coil brackets eventually as installing them with the air conditioner compressor and the plastic slip on coolant plug at the back (only later fd engines?)of the bock was an emotional experience, but with fine wire iridium you shouldn't have to touch it for a long time either. Comes with a loom, have to slip one pin out of a factory connector IIRC and chuck earths on the same bolt as the harness earth.

It means no ht leads, new coils that are running big boost in meth drag cars happily and you can even leave all the factory gear in place of you want.

425rwhp and 19psi.

So personally, on my set-up which is near maxing out stock fuel injectors (~340rwhp?) on a ROM tuned stock ECU creeping to 17psi falling down to 15psi boost on the stock twins with dual 60mm downpipe to 4" exhaust, M2 intake, ASP large SMIC I chose to run the 11 heat range NGKs all around (and mix in 104 unleaded).

The plugs do foul out when cold and get a "talkative" street port like idle, but with just a healthy stock ignition system the plugs clear up right away as boost comes in. I have had no power on ignition issues.

I don't know if you even need more ignition system than healthy stock plus twin power if you aren't taxing the ignition system with water injection or planning really rich AFRs (richer than 10:1AFRs) and/or 116 leaded gas. I do recommend one or some combination of the aforementioned however.

I'm cheap so I am using the Mazdaspeed 000-10-R601-11 $15 regular nickel electrode race plugs with shorter 19mm reach, but if you are already using the more expensive 7420s I recommend trying the coldest heat range since you plan on pushing the stock twins to the max. If you can live with the minor fouling there is no other downside I can think of.

I did the same on a single turbo setup where the customer requested to retain the cruise control. Made a bracket and mounted them in the stock location.

Are you able to fit the new coils under the UIM if the rats nest if still there for a still twin setup?
Mike