A question about the fuel pump rewire and motivation.
 

Here is the story so far on the most recent issues I've had with my car.

It would not turn over. There was 12 volts at the starter, but the S terminal was corroded. Cleaning it solved that issue, but it would not start. That was when I realized the fuel pump was not running. It was getting voltage, but the fuel pump had failed.

Fast forward two weeks, and I installed a new Walbro pump. The car cranked up, I moved it closer to the house so I could clean it. The next morning, NO crank!

It had no voltage to the S terminal. Checked the clutch switch, it was good. The starter security relay was the issue, so I bypassed it and it cranked! But would not run.....

So, checked voltage at the pump, 6 volts and the pump would not operate. I bypassed the relay at the front and is now getting 12 volts, and is operating properly. I will be doing the fuel pump rewire soon to eliminate the voltage drop.

Unfortunately, the car would now crank, fuel pump runs, but would not start....

Thinking it was flooded, I pulled the plugs, but they were not wet with fuel. I still pulled the EGI fuse and cranked it to clear the "flood" and put a little oil in the holes. It still did not start, but starting fluid made it start. This made me think that it was not starting due to a lack of fuel.

So, today I decided to try playing with the settings on the Power FC Commander temp correction map. The car was reading 17°C, so I adjusted the 10°C setting a few ticks higher and it tried to start. A few more ticks and it started!

ONTO THE QUESTIONS

Does increasing the number in the temp correction map increase the amount of fuel delivered? I would assume so, since it would not start without additional fuel.

Why did this happen? I would have thought getting higher voltage would make it run richer...

Could anyone post a picture of their temp correction screen? I'd like to compare it my own.

Finally, a question about motivation

How do you guys stay motivated? Seems like every time I try to move 1 step ahead, something else happens and I go 2 or more back. Between these setbacks and my lack of time to actually work on it, I feel less and less motivated to work on it.

Vince

The bulkhead connector that goes thru the tank to the pump is a known failure point. Mine popped a fuse a few weeks before the connector in the tank completely burned. Racetronix makes a bulkhead connector with upgraded wiring. I suggest doing this retrofit as part of your fuel wiring upgrades. Here is what the connector inside the tank eventually will do. This is mine.
Attachment 619312
Attachment 619313
Attachment 619314

I greatly appreciate your input!

I just pulled the pump out of the tank because it was getting voltage, but no joy. The connector you pictured was not making connection. Fortunately, it was not burned up. So, I removed the terminals from the connector to clean and TWEAK them. Cleaned the pins in the hanger end and applied some dielectric grease to slow the corrosion.

This has solved the issue for the moment. I will be using your suggestion on a new bulkhead connector when I do the fuel pump rewire. Just as soon as I get the car back on the road, I will do this.

Vince