Proper idle screw adjustment combo...
 

So, I have a stock ECU. Been surging up and down at idle from 1100 to 1400 up/down/up/down. What is the proper setup for the screw at the top of the TB and the air bleed screw under the TB from the factory? I have heard that with the airpump removed, in order to idle smooth, idle should be around 900-1000. Should the top adjustment screw that holds the butterflies open just touch so that it DOESN't hold them open at all, or should it be holding them open to adjust the idle? Or, should I be adjusting the idle with the air bleed screw? Is there a stock combination of how much each is adjusted? I know that the air bleed should be closed all the way, then start by backing it out 1/2 turn...any other info would be great!

Trev

Do you have any mods?

If you have a PFC, you need to make sure the appropriate pins were cut or pulled. Chuck Westbrook figured out on my car that the pin out on the PFC and the US version wiring harness are not the same. I chose to install an Autosport wiring harness adapter so I would not had to mod the stock main wiring harness. We pulled the AWS pin and it stopped my idle hunting problem. Then just had to adjust idle as you state above to smooth it out and get it set at correct "no-load" and "load" RPM's.

Richard

Stock ECU Richard.

Trev

I had a similiar problem with my stock 93 (purchased in 93) many years ago and it was the LIM gasket. Hope it isn't unless you are mechanically inclined as is was quite costly.