Project finished!..(almost) +pics
 

First off my current problem is a flooded motor, I believe. In the 5yrs Ive owned the car I've never flooded so I was surprised to see the 100s of threads about flooding. My car hasnt been started up since 12/10/03, the day AFTER I had a (small) fire (from fpd swap fuel residue)
After completing a harness swap, silicon vac job, OMP/lines swap, DP install and PS/AC removal I started my ign. and the motor just spun. Well that's certainly not unusual for a rotary hibernating for 3 months, but I noticed that I hadnt put the wires on the plugs. Still just spun the motor. OK, being the idiot I can be it occurred to me to put in new plugs (used the anti-seize). Still just spun. My mechanic says to pull plugs and ECU connection(s) and spin it to unflood it for 15-20 secs, then do it again, then let it sit plugs out overnight.
There are lots of good techniques on the forum including push-starting is this one valid?
Only mods before fire were 5psd swap(using AT harness/cpu) and turbo timer.
My other question is after having done all the work I just did is there anything vital I may have overlooked? I did study the wiring diagrams and vacuum diagrams for about a month before actually working on it. -BTW I jumped my battery w/another car to make it easier to spin and not kill my own battery and the sound it made w/o the plugs just added to the "cool rotary sounds" list. Like 4 BOV's going off alternately.
Sorry about the length and thanks -Stefan

can someone host my pics?

Check your PM. :)

http://www.streetneeds.com/ttnet/up/nina.jpg

http://www.streetneeds.com/ttnet/up/engine.jpg

http://www.streetneeds.com/ttnet/up/ded_weight.jpg

http://www.streetneeds.com/ttnet/up/plugs.jpg

Did you prime the fuel system?

What does it mean to prime the fuel system ?

Well, uhh...I figured that by turning the key on initially the fuel would at least get to the fpd and then the next couple times the whole system would be full.
Once I made sure the wires were on the plugs, the motor was still flooded(IMO) but I would run back to the tailpipe where I could smell the fuel and see the light mist of smoke coming out.
If in the morning I put the new plugs back in and it starts up, I'm all good, if not, I'll be lookin for more answers

Whenever doing fuel work or re-installing an engine, prime the fuel pump. Don't rely on cranking.

You need to jump 2 pins in the diag box under the hood with a paper-clip.

The actual pins are somewhere in the archives - I don't have them off the top of my head.

Prime for 2 minutes, check for fuel leaks, during that time, etc.

Disconnect jumper and try to start.

actually, if you just turn the key to the run position, your fuel pump should turn on and pressurize the system. It's best to do this while you have the UIM off so you can visually inspect for leaks. You might have to cycle between run and off a few times, I think everytime you put it to run, it only turns the pump on for 5 seconds.

Houdini,

That method doesn't work well for an engine that has had the fuel system depressurized, unfortunately.

Do you think at this point that I may as well do what u said and prime it? Just to cover all my bases?

Absolutely.

Jumper wire from F/P to GND, then turn the key to the ON pos. You'll hear the fuel pump turn on and some muffled hissing. This is the fuel rail filling with pressure and fuel. After you've pressurized the system, remove the jumper wire. Turn the key off. Then on the fuse box on the pos. battery cable, remove the EGI fuse(I believe its a 30amp). Then crank the car for about 20seconds. Stop. Wait a second and repeat 2 or 3 times. This will turn the fuel system off while cranking, thus allowing any pooled fuel to be expelled out of the motor. Reinstall said EGI fuse and crank normally. If it's still not working you've got other issues.(weak battery maybe). You can also use the EGI fuse technique to lubricate your engine bearings after a long winter of not starting the car, allowing unloaded lubrication of your bearings will prolong their life and prevent dry starts.
Art

:off topic:

I have never seen pics of a black with red interior. That looks beautiful!

I see you removed your power steering. Can you tell me what did you do about the rack. Did you loop it back or plug the 2 lines?

Also how does it feel now?

Me neither. Reminds me of those Limited Edition Miatas. I've only seen these red interiors in the silver cars and those are very rare cars.

:off topic:

I have never seen pics of a black with red interior. That looks beautiful!

Thanks man! Only recently is my color scheme appreciated. Years ago people would say they didnt like it. (I never did like that special edition Vette that had the red interior). Rx7's just have that style where they can look like those european sports cars or look completely racy.

Great news! My car started right up! (now i must give a thank you speech)
Thanks everyone on this post, herblenny for the harness, willRx7 for the omp+DP, speedking for the tech advice and support, Ricks Rotary, and Joe at New Performance in Hayward for doing all the PIA work -he knows his shit fellas, just not as well known on here.
Car now has boost again due to the new OMP, sounds more grumbly from the dp(besides the performance benefit), should be breathing better from resealing the meeting points in my stock air intake setup, the silicon vacs should just be doin their damn job, and knowing my car so intimately now just gives me confidence and knowledge.
Damn!!!!....THIS FORUM RULES!!!!!!!! :bowdown:

Actually my PS pump hasnt worked in 2yrs but was too lazy til now to remove the hardware. To tell u the truth I cant remember what it felt like WITH power steering. The car's so small and light I dont think you need it, especially if you're trying to lose weight to go faster. And I just plugged the lines to keep crap from going in or out of the piping still there.
I also cut out the AC piping back near the firewall. It actually helped ease the install of the DP because there's more room now. Best of all, is looking at the front of the car and seeing only my new radiator and nothing else.

We always love a happy ending!:P
Art

Told ya :P :hah:

Glad to hear it's running.

150 where are you at in the city?

if you dont prime it then what??? im sure this is a silly question but ill ask anyway

If you don't prime it you'll just spin the motor for a few revolutions until it sputters to life. Nothing really happens, it's just easier to start after working on the fuel system if you prime it before trying to start it.
Art

Black on Red is a rare combination. I had one and i hated it, but it grew on me all the way till it got totalled. Glad you got the car running and glad you made good use of my parts.

I'm actually in Daly City near the beach.
Update: I was getting an error code for a while and the idle was lopin' so I rolled into New Performance to holler at Joe and he told me to fix my vac leak and I found it and unkinked my line going to the canister thingythat hangs on the lower bolts for the throttle body/elbow and now the car's runnin like a dream.
p.s. Isnt it more work for your throttle foot to maintain a steady speed on the freeway than in a normal car? Just by keeping a light even pressure on the acc. pedal the car just goes faster and faster while @2800rpm! Its harder work to go slow in these cars.