You could also try a hump hose coupler. They will help if you are getting any extra movement causing your current coupler to not seal as it should.

Glueing your solenoids back together is likely your problem ............ and a bad idea in the first place. Doing "half assed" fixes like that will usually cause way more trouble than they correct.

I'm having a similar problem at the moment, pretty sure it's bad coupler(s) in my case. That said, it sounds a lot like a failing solenoid to me - when the solenoid first starts to go bad, it will only act up when it is hot. This would explain the car working fine for a brief shakedown run, but acting up near the end of a trip when everything is good and hot.

The other possibility is that your couplers are good, but one or more of your clamps is weak. In this case, the clamp will gradually work its way loose under boost, until the boost starts to "flutter".

Good luck - I haven't run through an analysis of which solenoid may be acting up, but you can probably narrow it down to one or two based on the symptoms (and a detailed reading of the schematic).

Do it once: Do it right.

glued solenoids are a bad idea. get those replaced. you'll thank yourself 2 months from now.

I've bought a bunch of those used solenoids, and as many as half aren't functioning well.

Unless you're going to test them with a Mityvac, it's very possible you'll end up with worse problems. If you buy a spare rack and test both those and yours, and pick the best ones, it's a really good way to go.

Dave

I'm going to go step by step, tonight I'm going by one of my friends places to pickup a hump hose coupler. If it isn't fixed then it's onto the solenoids.

Okay, went by and picked up a hump hose coupler and put it on. Didn't fix the boost problem but I have a question. Should there be a gasket where the y-pipe goes into the UIM?

It's off to dig under the UIM again, but as if things couldn't get worse for me... ANOTHER problem comes up. The detailing place F'ed up my basically brand new wheels that most likely cannot be fixed due to the finish of the wheel.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/ajs-detail-wash-evidence-proof-610357/ <---wheel problem thread with pics!

You mean where the elbow goes to the tb? Yes, there should be a rubber gasket.

Sounds like its time to check those solenoids.

For the gaskets, here's what you should have:

LIM -> Gasket -> UIM -> Gasket -> TB -> Rubber O-Ring -> Elbow

Alright, so I'm guessing it is my solenoids. The car boosted fine when I first started the car and it pulled hard, but once the engine bay heats up, the glue must melt and just mess up everything.

To make things worse, ANOTHER problem comes up. I start the car up today and I hear a loud whine from the engine. I pop the hood and it seems to be coming from the pullies are somewhere around there. At idle and while driving you can still hear it. Then when I was at Wheel Techniques to get a quote to fix my wheels, the car wouldn't start. I pop the hood again, look around and try again and it starts and now with no whine. Drove all the way home and no whine. What could this have been?

This car.... ugh

Based on the fact that you sprayed coolant all over the pullies and belts, I'd say the whining noise was coming from them. If old worn belts get wet in any way, they start making all sorts of noises. The fact that they went away after a while sounds right in line with that.

Actually, I think there's a lot of whining coming from the driver's seat, too. You've got to remember that this is a 11-plus-year-old car you're dealing with here. And one that's been modified at that. There are a lot of parts that get weathered, worn, and most likely abused. This isn't some shiny new car that you've just rolled off the showroom floor...

Yes I know that and I am whining because all this BS is happening one after another and it's sometimes just over whelming because I can't fix any of my engine work without fixing my wheels first.

After being problem free for over a year, 4-5 things break/mess up in a matter of a week all at once so it is overwhelming to me and feels like the car is falling apart that's all.

The whine wasn't the belts as it started up again. I traced it down to being located somewhere under the UIM. Possibly an air whistling from the solenoids?

I can't take a look under the car until my wheels are fixed.

Once again another problem came up, I noticed coolant leaking from the undertry as I was backing out. Could be left over coolant when I was changing the other radiator hose pipe but that was 3 days ago and it looked pretty fresh. Couldn't find any actual leaking though thank goodness.

Anymore info on the whine?

Okay, good day so far. Wheel problem got fixed (the car wash place is buying me new wheels) and I took the UIM off today to check out my solenoid problems. Found out the ones we super glued were B, C, and E which are the Relief 1, Switching, and Turbo Control solenoids which are the ones hopefully responsible for me not getting my 2ndary boost.

Another question I have while I have the UIM off is that when I just installed the PFC, everyone says you need to adjust the idle screw because of irregular idle. How do I go about adjusting this and where is the screw located?

Boost problem was fixed and the whine was because the ground wire was caught between the UIM so air was escaping.

Car runs great and after 3 weeks of problems the car is finally up and running like normal! *knock on wood*

Big thanks goes out to insomniac for helping me out and suppling me with the solenoids!

Good to hear it.

Of those three solenoids, only the turbo control solenoid would have affected boost. The other two control emissions devices. But that turbo control solenoid is quite important.

Dave

this has been quite a week, but I'm glad it's all resolved !!!