? PowerFC base/default map vs. stock ECU map
 

Can anyone confirm that the Apexi PowerFC "base"/default map is the same as the STOCK FD map ?

That is, does it run rich, and is it good for the basic add ons like DP, free-flow cat, free-flow muffler, and aftermarket intake, or do I need to get it tuned with these mods.

TIA,

:-) neil

It's actually far better than the stock ECU map. It will easily handle intake, downpipe, and cat-back, maybe even intercooler. Not to mention the car will run WAY better with the PowerFC than with the stocker. A midpipe will require tuning, though.

Dale

the stock ECU and the power FC base map are not the same.

And theres two power FC base maps, one came on the earlier version, the later version had a base map plus which was a bit richer.

Does anyone know the version break for this richer base map ?

:-) neil

I was thinking about a mid-pipe, but it just STINKS too much. Hence, free-flow metallic cat with a center Magnaflow resonator.

My M2 Stage III is just too rich for my mods.

:-) neil

Any PFC you buy new will have the newer map.

I have a lot of these answers in my PowerFC FAQ -
http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FAQ.pdf

Anything with "FD3SIV" on the side should be a newer one, I believe.

Dale

The "FD3S I-III" is for the 91Dec - 95Dec Rx-7 and the "FD3S IV" is for the 95Dec - 98Dec.

I was thinking about running the power FC for my rebuild I just picked up. I thought I read somewhere that the power FC had a more agressive map then stock... I guess those threads were refering to the older map?

Sounds like it might be safer/better for the engine to put the power fc right in. After first startup of course incase something go's south I don't want it to take the new ecu with it. ;) Any thoughts on running the power fc on a fresh 0 mile rebuild? Safer vs Stupid ?? Something of the sort. Oh, and we're talking stock vs stock as far as mods... I have some mods however I am waiting to install them until the motor has had a peaceful break in.

A little bit of misinformation in here....

The current default PFC map is actually LEANER than the stock ecu map in some areas of the map. It also has much more advanced timing than the stock ecu.

It is not safe with a PFC to just plug it in with a full bolt-on car and let her rip -- this is safe with the stock ecu at 10 psi.

I was slightly off - I forgot the info in my own FAQ :).

"FD3S4" on the side of the PowerFC is a new PFC for the '93-95 cars. They also use a roman numeral designator to differentiate between models - FD3S I through III is the '93-95 cars. It's all in the FAQ.

Dale

I think the running better think os subjective and depends on the tuning. In my case it fixed the 3000 rpm stumble but fuel consumption almost doubled in the city and lost 5 mpg on the highway. I still feel like the stock ecu felt stronger through mid-range but I believe it's a fairly conservative tune as I was changing things every couple of weeks.

So are my mods (see below signature) considered unsafe for the PFC's base map ?

And are they too little for a M2 Stage III ECU (note, I don't have a larger intercooler or Blitz/HKS intake, just the stock airbox) ?

:-) neil

JDM DP
Spec '99 air intake ducting
stock airbox
free-flow cat
Magnaflow center-resonator
Greedy/Trust cat-back muffler
stock intercooler

You should be fine at 10-11 psi on the PFC default map with those mods. You are fine to run an M2 ecu with those mods to 12-13 psi. Although, I would really hesitate to run more than 10 psi with the stock intercooler.

Dale,

I read your FAQ, and compared the installation instructions to the manual link you gave, and I don't see in the manual where it talks about cutting some wires, or breaking some pins.

Is this absolutely necesssary ? If you don't do it, what happens ?

Also, on the map matrix at bloomcounty ( http://opus.bloomcounty.org/~patrick/pfc/ ), it shows that the base map does not suport my mods (I have the older PFC).

Do I need to worry at 10-12 psi of boost ?

TIA,
:-) neil

If you don't cut the 4 wires, your car will run like crap, from what I've read anyway in the PFC forum. Those four wires deal with emissions equipment that are not present on the JDM engines.

Cut the four wires indicated in the lower right hand corner.
If I'm wrong, please SOMEONE correct me, because that's what I plan on cutting.
Attachment 700445

I just got my PFC and I'm a bit hesitant on installing it right away and waiting for a tuning. I've got DP, CB, ported engine and I'm about to install an Apexi intake. From what I understand the base map for the FD3S4 ECU's are good for DP, CB, Intake and IC. And I've read that I should retard the timing a bit for my streetport(how much??). I have Dale's FAQ on the PFC, but I wish the board had a FAQ sticky that was a bit more informative. However since I'm so new to PFC's, I don't know if that's even possible.

^^Depending on your mods, I would stick with 10psi of boost until you get your PFC tuned. Better safe than sorry.

Interested in this also ...

Is it better to break in a new rebuild with a stock ecu or power fc on base map .... only mod being intake, dp and intercooler.

Wow, old thread!

For breaking in an engine, the PowerFC will do just fine. It actually may be a bit better because you can use the sensor check screen to make sure all your sensors are reading properly and use can use the gauges to watch your water temp, battery voltage, etc.

Most times if you have problems after a rebuild it isn't the motor itself it's all the junk bolted to it. I always watch everything like a hawk during break in, if something is going to go wrong that first 1000 miles are when it will happen. Small coolant leaks, fuel leaks, not charging properly, etc. The PFC can help you monitor things and spot a problem quickly.

Dale

Is there a plug patch i can get that will not require me to cut any wire off the original harness to install the pfc ? Needs to be able to convert back to stock when smog time comes along

You don't need to cut anything, just remove the appropriate pins from the ECU connectors

Don't cut the factory harness unless there's no other way to achieve something

can the pins be out back ? How exactly is this done

Yes, any pin removed can be put back in, that's the appeal of doing it this way

When I installed my adaptronic ECU, I had to change a few wires on the ECU connector. I didn't want to cut the existing wires and solder/crimp onto them, so I removed the relevant wires from the connectors, crimped new pins onto the new wires, and put the new wires/pins in the ECU connectors.

Just make sure you cover the old pins with electrical tape or heat shrink or something so they don't get grounded accidentally.

Ok I see. In my case since I'm only removing with out putting anything new IN. I can just pull out the wire along with the pin and simply tape it up to avoid contact ... when the time comes to switch back simply put the pin+wire back into the appropriate slot on the connector ... am I right

Sorry, but a quick question.
I am running 6-7 lbs boost presently. If I just hook up an PFC what will happen? Meaning, the base has a boost setting already in?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...62932345fb.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ac659cbd4b.jpg