http://turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=1

Bleed type boost controller

you can hook it up at the niple you caped off and let it just bleed of some air pressure from wastgate to increase boost


you should get PFC as you got way to much mods for stock ECU

you also need fuel system upgrade

modifay you 850cc secondary injectors to 1300cc
or
modifay you primary rail to fit 850cc injectors

also supra fuel pump and HKS twin power

also make shour you have proper non seqential conversion

and then you will be able to increase boost



if you keep on driving you car as it is now you are just asking for truble
anything pass 10 psi is to much on stock ecu

my recommendation - if you drive it stay out of boost, dont race it

I have a supra TT pump already.

I basically have all the bolt ons minus midpipe and PFC. I still have the stock cat.

So you're saying if i get another boost controller again, install it in-line with the nipple i capped off?

Meaning run a vacuum line from the nipple, to one end of the boost controller, then what about the other end? Where does that line go to now?

Bleed type boost controller

that would be it, there is no need to connect the other side

you would screw it in all the way to make that 7-8 psi and to increase the boost you would let it bleed some air pressure out

the other side you could just run to air intake or just open -- do not cap it

Cause ultimately i wanted this boost controller.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=165

Simple, small and only thing i need. Which is why im selling my dual stage unit, cause there will be no high boost for me since everything is stock.

If i get that grimmspeed bc, i can just hook up one line to the wastegate nipple and leave the other end open you're saying??

Thanks again for all the help man. I appreciate it.

i never used that boost controller....but it should work

i like TurboXS its the same price and race proven
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If i get that grimmspeed bc, i can just hook up one line to the wastegate nipple and leave the other end open you're saying??

yes...you would hook it up to that nipple you just caped....this way it works just like the stock solenoid...

you can also set it up traditional way

keep that nipple on the right caped

and install the boost controller between the nipple on the left and the turbo



let me know how things work out or if you need more help

Yeah my old boost controller wasnt hooked up to that wastegate nipple. I actually didnt know you could hook it up there as well.

But i want to sell my current boost controller before i get another one. I guess for now im stuck with 7psi.

My car is really dog slow now lol. Took forever to get to 100mph today. lol

Pm'ed you serb ;)

Check your spark plugs

So I tested pretty much everything, all the solenoids seem fine, I forgot that the end of the nipple broke awhile ago on my turbo control vacuum solenoid output but it still tested fine. Check valves, viton lines, hard lines and vac/pres tanks were fine (but I didn't have time to test them for extremely long). Charge relief was fine. Turbo control actuator seemed to take a lot of pumps to pump up on both sides (pres and vac) but once there it held fine (I think this is due to it having so much volume).

And one thing the smaller diaphragm on the charge control valve (constant pressure from primary turbo) was not holding pressure but it wasn't dropping too slowly so maybe with constant supply from the primary it would be ok but this could be enough of a problem to cause my issue??<<<<<

I also need to get under the car and watch the turbo control work etc. but I get the feeling it's ok.

I did the simplified sequential and removed my emissions (along with a/c and p/s!) and now the primary doesn't boost until very high rpm DOH! It sounds like I have a boost leak though so I will just get back in there and seal all my block offs etc. better.

Looped line steering is maybe a bit tougher than I had hoped at slower speeds (doesn't help my wrist is injured working) and I need more time to evaluate road feel but so far I like it (especially the big hole in the side of my engine bay, that is great!!!)

Well rather than figure out the sequential issue I created, I decided to go non-sequential. The car only goes on track now so it was logical for my simplification. That fixed the boost but now I'm getting an extreme hesitation around 5k it's almost like a rev-limiter. I'm going to try some little things such as grounding the pfc and engine to battery but I really want to switch the plugs, the car sat for awhile and they are about due I think so maybe that's it.

Have you verified that your injectors are not sticking/leaking? What about your coils? Have you verified that they're working properly? And the harness going to your coils?

Is there any way to check the injectors without taking them off the car or shipping to rc engineering etc. to be checked? I had them cleaned maybe 25k mi ago so they seem less likely. I'm more worried about the coils and harness, the twinpower could have burned them out? These parts have 85k and the twinpower was put on about 25k ago as well. Is there a procedure for testing them in the FSM?

I've put some more thought into this issue lately and I'm wondering if it may have to do with the racelogic traction control. I changed the tire sizes without inputting the new diameters into the controller and maybe in every gear right around 5k rpm the wheels are spinning at the right rpm to make it think they're slipping? Anyway I just need to drive the car and test it, do some logging. I never take it out anymore except for the track. I had thought it was related to my boost issue at 5k rpm but that may have just been with the solenoids and actuators. Will post up once it's solved and tested on track.