Please tell me its not my enigne!!
 

Yesterday i was just taking a run of my car and it was going strong but after the run when i stopped the car the idling was like it wanted to die... But still it is idling at 650-700 rpms and it is making a sound under the hood like some vaccum is off and leaking air at normal intervals(psh...psh..psh.)... Its a new motor not even have 1500 kms on it.... running .8 bar boost with Apex-i power fc, bigger radiator, larger intercooler... Please please tell me its not my engine and some vaccum is off... please some one help.... I'll be a lot happier man... I just spent $6000 on the engine....and i am broke!!

On my way home I boosted a little and the power was as good as ever... the car still is going strong..

Please help!!

sounds like it's just a vac hose, get under the hood and try to find a loose hose I doubt there are too many places you can take your car for work in pakistan...

did you check the boost sensor hose thats what happened to my friends car about a month ago.

its not your engine...

Ok you have made me a happier man... But please tell me does this mean in any way that something is wrong with the engine??? i mean is there a remote possibility... I am shit scared and Broke.....

I will take the car to the mechanic tomorrow and have him take a look at the boost sensor hose and the Vaccums.. Any other specific place i should look at other then the boost sensor hose...

Please ppl keep telling me its not my engine :)

and thanks guys

if it makes you feel better, i had the same problem.. My problem..... i friend my o2 sensor.. i replaced it with a 15 dollar one from advanced auto parts ( universal, just splic your old harness into the wire ).. and wammo.. problem fixed..

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=291&PTSet=C

buy a compression tester to check compression if you really wanna know if its yoru engine or not

It's not your engine. The donkey under hood needs some water and hay.

ok checked the compression it is fine... Then the mechanic tired pulling out the plug wires one by one and when he took out the wire from the rear trailing plug the sound remained the same... The car kept missing nothing changed even with the plug wire off??all the other wires were on... if he takes any other 1 wire off the sound changes...

ok checked the plug wire it is fine... now should i check the ignition coil?? or what... any other place i should start...

thanks for your help guys...

ok now the mechanic is saying that he feels that there is less compression in one rotor....:confused:


before he told me he checked the compression and it was ok... Can it be that he cannot find the problem and just wants to rip my engine apart?

Its a new motor less than 1500 kms on it
Help me out here...

does your mechanic know the right compression readings for a rx7?
what was it boosting at before what is it boosting at now?

I doubt it could be your engine if you only just had it rebuilt chances are its prob. a vacuum hose popped of or something. Have a look at this vacuum diagram might help…….

http://www.robrobinette.com/hoses.htm




shaQ

found this on a previous thread hope it helps



New cars are spec'd out to 8.5 kg/cm^2 or 121psi, and the minimum I go by (the updated minimum) is 6.0kg/cm^2 or 85psi. Anything above 7.0 kg/cm^2 or 100 psi I would consider "good" or "normal". Most properly functioning engines fall in the 7s range. Ported engines don't count. You won't start to notice power loss or idle/startup problems until below 6.0, although autos are more sensitive. The more consistant the numbers are between chambers, the better. I'd consider less than 0.5kg/cm^2 difference between the highest and lowest readings (out of 6 readings) good, most cars are under 1.0, and once the difference gets to 1.5 you start getting problems. Also, the test must be done HOT, it has been proven that doing it cold artificially inflates numbers. The standards also only apply to 250rpm at sea level. Higher elevations and/or lower rpms will lower your numbers and vice versa. Ok, I think that covers everything...

thanks guys...

Ok the mechanic says he did two compression tests, wet and dry...

He is saying now that compression is ok at 100psi for both the rotors in both the tests...

He is changing the ignition system now to see if that is the problem....

I told him to check for leaky injectors but he said that of it would have been leaky injectors there would be black smoke coming out of the exhaust...

I was about to say that too. :p:

It's not your engine...it's mine :p:

what do i do guys compression is good.. But the car is missing in idle and till 1500 rpms above that its ok... Runs great otherwise..

Please help... Can it be the O2 sensor... how do i check?


ok U can have mine... Just give me your engine ;)

thanks for the replies guys

Sounds like your boost sensor still has not been checked. If the hose pops off your car will run like absolute crap and you'll leave a pretty good smoke screen behind. Check the hose!

Or cap the nipple, temporarily, and see if it improves... Also check the Airpump, if it's not running @ idle your mixture is too rich... and you'll fowl up plugs... also check for cracks on the turbo hoses... especially the couplers where th efini Y pipe goes.... if you don't have one, if you do it's a mute point... there won't be a leak...

Turn on the AC, and see if it improves, or the hissing goes away...??

you ought not be seeing .8 bar with only 1500km on your engine. needs more time to break in.

you have have my blown ones ;)

Ok have tried virtually everything.... Checked the Boost sensor hose it was on... Replaced the boost sensor no difference.... checked the tps.. everything seemed ok... changed the throtle body no change.... checked the coils... One plug does not work at idle.... changed the coils no difference... changed the ignitor box....
checked the upper lower intake gaskets

Now for a final try have changed the O2 sensor and the injectors...I hope this solves the problem... Compession is 100psi in both the housings..


Please help....

Thanks

Ok injectors also changed didnt help.... Niether did the O2 sensor...

Now the mechanic is saying he want to open the engine and check the rear rotor the one in which there is some sparking problem at idle, that we found out because if we take out the plug wire of that housng at idle the idle and the sound of the car remains the same.

He is saying that i might be that the cylinder pressure is low is low on that housing....

I have a good housing with me from my old engine... What would i need to order if i have the engine open and change the housing... Will the old seals work.. and the o rings and stuff??


Thanks

he should do the engine for free its still a new engine i dont know what laws you have there but as long as you didnt fiddle with something yourself he should be responsible for his work

and if there is no spark at idle there is nothing to do with compression its an agnition problem .

Don't tear your engine open!!! If you have 100 psi in both rotor housings( on all three faces of the rotor) the engine is in good shape. If you say there is NO spark on the rear trailing plug I think you have located your problem. You said the engine runs fine above 1500 rpm's, does it make a difference if you pull the plug wire off the rear trailing plug at that rpm? I am thinking maybe your Power FC may be not firing the rear trailing coil at idle for some reason. IMO: your mechanic is just getting frustrated and is just blameing the bad reputation of the rotary engine. Not fair!!, you have located a problem with the spark. Investigate that further;)

how many miles is on the chasis? If the coils are good and the plugs and wires are good, it might be the wire harness thats fried somewhere, Thus not sending the signal to one of your coils to fire.

U know that might be it... A little while back when i put in my new engine. i had some other problem... Whenever my car used to see boost it used to start hesitating.. I tried everything... in the end when i changed the ecu to power fc and put some ground wires things became ok... But now this.... How can i check my wiring harness??




Got the engine from Japan not the guy who is fixing it.....I have e-mailed the company in japan too... Waiting on a reply...


Thanks guys for the replies