Please help quick!
 

How much would you guys say a 1993 Montego blue 7 with 60,000mi on it is worth? I need this info fairly quickly if I'm gonna get it. BTW, asking price is $13k.

Thanks

assuming its not an R1 and it has leather, $13k isn't bad, IMHO. but then again i do not own an FD...

what kind of condition is it in?

forgot
 

Sorry, I forgot, it's a touring, and it appears to be in great condition. Original motor and engine with a clean title. Thanks

if the car checks out (compression check) its a fair deal. good but not great.

With the original motor you have to be careful. They don't last forever. Mine only lasted to 70k miles and I believe that is the typical life expectency of an FD motor. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes, as everyone else has said, get the car checked out by a rotary mechanic. Get a compression test, make sure no fluids are leaking from the car.

Also check the suspension, tires, exhaust, hoses... These are some things that may not be too serious but things you might have to replace immediately. I know how it is paying for a car, paying taxes on it, then having to put 4 new tires on it or something else... :rolleyes:

car check
 

Fd2Blk- Just a word of caution as to who checks out your car. When I got my FD, it was the first RX-7 that I had bought used. Previous three were bought new at dealer. The used car lot did not want me doing mechanical work in their lot to check out the car, so they agreed to let me take it to the local Mazda dealer. I asked, in writing, for the dealer "mechanic" to check 1. compression, 2. turbos, 3. transmission, 4. differential, and 5. "any other major problem that would be expensive to repair". (Exact words of note to the Mazda service rep.) The 93 VR touring had 50K miles and excellent interior and exterior, new tires and brakes. Mazda "mechanic" missed the following: bad coolant o-rings, bad (leaking) AST, leaking low coolant sensor, bad oil pressure sending unit, leaking air duct from turbos to IC. He did the compression test- was OK, turbos were OK, trans was OK, diff was OK. However- the mis-diagnosis of the coolant o-rings meant that I had to replace the engine about a month after I bought the car. Chances are that I would have bought the car anyway, but if I had a "bad engine" diagnosis from the Mazda dealer, I probably could have negotiated a better sale price for the car. BTW- the dealer charged $265 for their "16 point check". If you are near a rotary specialist, that would be your best bet.
Good luck, hope you found a good one!

thanks
 

Thanks for the tips. Any suggestions for online purchases? Obviously no matter what, I have to take the guy's word for the fact that he gets it checked, but is there anything I should know, do, or be aware of? Thanks for all the help

buying FD
 

Fd2Blk- Just a general comment. If you can, hold back a couple $K for unexpected repairs, etc. Even an honest seller may not be aware something is wrong with the car or about to go wrong. If I had spent everything that I had budgeted for my expensive toy, I would have been really pissed when the engine had to be replaced. If you have been reading this forum for some time, you have noticed all the people who buy a car and spend the next year trying to fix stuff that was wrong when they bought it. There are some good FD out there, but the majority are now 8 yrs old and getting older. For a high performance car with a complicated engine control system, that's getting up there. Hope you find a good one, then you can join the rest of us who love them one day and hate them the next. :)