RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum - please help.... im in dire need of guidence....

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please help.... im in dire need of guidence....

dear readers.... and FD lovers alike.
it is 2:15 am where i am as i write this...
i have work in 5 hours and yet i cannot get any shut eye
i am the proud owner of an gorgeous 2000 type r fd, but as of yet she has plagued me with problems....
hence i write to you for your guidence and wisdom from any1 and every1 out there
...
it all started a few days ago, when i noticed the car spat a huge plume of black
smoke from the exhaust... i thought to myself.. thats rather strange...
then when i drove her she backfired quite a lot when i took my foot of the gas.. but i thought that wasnt very out of place and took no further notice...
but then a couple of days after that, i started her up and ... same thing happens.
black smoke. i let her warm up and away i go.... but alas... i cannot get her above 3k rpm. and everytime i step on the throttle more than 1/3 way she stutters spits and backfires like crazy... i noe its not the turbos as i can hear them spool and the bov still rings true. yet boost does not even reach past 3 psi. i read up on it a bit and was told it could be my fuel pump meter, and for now should just reset the ecu till i could get her to a garage. following day did so. the drive there she was fine... nice boost... nice thrust not a problem and running like a dream.
when there, she was strapped straight onto the dyno and attempted a power run to see if they could find the problem... did not go very well.
same thing happened. she just choked spat and backfired like hell. she was OFF the scale when they checked air to fuel ratio MORE THAN 9:1 !!!!
after that procedure then called for diagnostics. hooked up and error reading from comp said something about 'charge control'
from then on, on the way home she drove like shit and people around me at the lights all stared and pointed at the plumes of black smoke flowed from my exhaust everytime i pressed the gas.
i am due to put her into a electrition on monday as no1 is open sundays where i live. i thought it might be something to do with wet sparkplugs so i went and bought new ngk's and jacked her up... to my horror.. most the of the underpan was covered in oil and dirt..... and looked like it leaked at least 1/2 way down the car...
now she idles at less than 500 and its rocky and dying at best... sounds like a lawn mower when gas is pressed and does not have ANY power nor does she drive well at all.

im worried about her.
please help. i was considering buying a new car, shot that idea to shit soon afterwards as i had already bought her a new bodykit and it was just waiting for room in the workshop to be put in.

all help would be greatly appreciated.

The first thing to check would be the MAP sensor line. Your symptoms can also be due to a bad fuel pressure regulator (FPR).

Does "full racing exhaust" mean that you are not running any cats? If so, you may have blown your motor or are well on your way to doing so. Full exhaust on stock ecu with no boost control = BAD

no no, im still on a cat..... i have failed to mention that.
must change it

Have you checked the line to the MAP sensor like Rynberg suggested. That would be my first guess also... Good luck.

If your getting a code for the charge control, the ecu will go into "limp mode" and the car will act just as you've discribed. That solenoid is under the upper intake manifold. Search "rats nest"and/or vauum diagram.

Oh listen to Gadd, I was still waking up when I first posted.....

thanks i will. but how would you go about describing the all the oil underneath the car...
and its a LOT of oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy T.

if your problem has something to do with oil, then i would check your OMP. im not sure when the last time i checked, but OMP, is the only thing that will throw your ecu into limp mode.

I would check for codes if you havent already.

you can take it out of limp mode by disconnecting your battery and holding the brake for 30 seconds or more. if you reset it before fixing the problem, it will most likely go back into limp mode. but at least that way you can see if your ecu is actually even in "limp mode".

if it runs fine after you reset it, then it probably is in limp mode. but concidering your symptoms, it dosent sound like it is, because even if its in limp mode, your idle should stay normal. It actually sounds like your CAS, which shares a harness with your OMP. You should check out the CAS, then check the harness. It is a 9 plug (i believe) right next to your alternator.

FYI - Black smoke means your running rich. Which can be a sign of a bad map sensor, because when that goes out, your ecu tends to dump tons of fuel into your engine.

+1 on the OMP , look for loose connections , or cut wires the OMP is known to let the computer go nuts ,
Othere things to look for , loose TPS , unpluged or faulty temp sensor , cut of loose vacuum hoses , loose/disconected map sensor
Also on the oil underneath the car , get it cleaned inmediately(steam clean or something) then find the leak ,
Again dont panic though FD`s are notorius for leaking oil pans , while its not Normal or fine , it is common ,get it fixed

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy T.

thanks i will. but how would you go about describing the all the oil underneath the car...
and its a LOT of oil.

You have a leak.

The oil pan is a likely suspect, but it could be many things. You'll need to get things cleaned up and look for the leak. It's possible the metering pump is leaking but unless the ecu gave you a code for it (and for some reason didn't mention in in your orignal post) then it's not related to how the car is running. The ecu doesn't know if the metering pump is leaking.

Paul

thanks guys much appreciated. i will ask the electrition to look into all of this tomorrow and if needed i will have a mechanic look for the leak if i cant find it myself.
i had perviously thought that maybe the oil pump meter might have been the culprit, but now im on the verge of thinking i might need a rebuild... the car has only done 79000 kms or 490100 miles. am i close in guessing i might need a rebuild ?

sorry whoops, finger slipped, 49100 miles not 490100 miles

another thing i forgot to mention to every1, as of late, i have noticed a thin film of oil where the bov is facing. i think im correct when im thinking that it SHOULDNT be doing that ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy T.

another thing i forgot to mention to every1, as of late, i have noticed a thin film of oil where the bov is facing. i think im correct when im thinking that it SHOULDNT be doing that ?

That would be a YES and a NO. It will do that depending on how hard the car is driven. With high lateral G's on the car, oil will creep up the filler neck and then get sucked into the intake track (there is a vent line down to the Primary Turbo elbow). With the stock airbox and the stock BOV, you don't really see it as it just goes into the intake box. You notice it when you change the air filter. However, if you have an aftermarket BOV vented to atmosphere, you'll quickly see it.

That is completely normal, not desirable but normal, for cars being driven hard like on road courses. If you haven't been driving your car hard, then that's something you don't want to see.

when you say shes been driven hard, does that include the occasional scramble from the red light grand prix ? cause i know i realli baby my car most of the time, but when i feed it, i really feed it

the electrition said that he has a little suspicion that i might have blown a seal.... which means a rebuild doesnt it ? but other than that im getting him to check the map sensor line and the OMP tomorrow along with the CAS...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy T.

Is he an rx7 specialist? At least here in the states you can't trust what any mechanic says about your motor unless they specialize in them. If you have any doubts, have a compression check done before worrying about a rebuild.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy T.

the electrician says its a bad seal? dont take advice from somebody that isnt a rotary professional. just let him stick to testing your electronics.

take it to a roatry shop. plenty around in Australia. which state do you live in?

it really sounds like the map sensor vacuum line has popped off.

i pray to god that that is so.... but i couldnt see any of the lines being off or loose....
if a rotor had blown would it really have spilled all its oil aswell ???
im in western australia, and the only guys that specialise in rotaries down are saying it could cost up to $6000 aust to rebuild. and there is only 1 specialist down here....
so what does everyone think, would it be cheaper to rebuild or buy another donk ??

I think you should have an actual rotary shop take a look at it and give it a thorough once over. I do not think you should go by the word of an electrician, however knowledgeable about rotaries he may be. Once the actual problem is assessed, then we can help you further.

Would you listen to a dentist if he told you to get a prostate exam?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy T.

lmao... buy one from me for $2860

http://store.rotarytuner.com/product...roducts_id=367

its a hell of allot cheaper then $6000!