|
check valves good?
|
I went through something like this 6 years ago and wasted so much time diagnosing that I ended up buying all new solenoids, something like 7 or 8 at $50 a pop and like 10 of the check valves at like $10 each. And I made sure that the vaccuum lines were exactly as on the factory diagram. Never had issue after that.
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 9535126)
I just got a chance to mess with the car this evening.
RECAP: - i get good primary boost - 4 psi WOT in neutral - MBC on wastegate ONLY - precontrol is still controlled by stock ECU - my boost pattern is 10-5-8, so i get a large pressure drop at transition and it will not build full boost afterwards... would this indicate that the secondary is not producing any boost and the pressure is being fed back thru the secondary when the charge control actuator opens? - i also sometimes have a hard time generating any boost pressure at all and the car feels sluggish I switched the lines to the turbo control actuator and it caused no transition at all. I just switched it back after verifying that the lines were hooked up right to begin with: I checked: - pressure and vac resevoirs (good) - put a mity vac on the turbo control and actuated it. (good) - put vac guage on turbo control vac supply nipple under pressure tank. key on i got vac for a second then it switched it off. - put pressure guage on turbo control pressure supply nipple under pressure tank. key on i got pressure for a second and it switched off. each time i did key on key off i got pressure or vacuum reading for a second, then relay clicked and back to zero. any suggestions? I'm considering going poor man's non-sequential for the time being. |
Check for a clogged cat. I posted how in the past if you want to search for it.
I'm going through my own troubleshooting for a transition issue so I feel your pain. |
Originally Posted by arghx
(Post 9535163)
check valves good?
Originally Posted by pomanferrari
(Post 9535812)
I went through something like this 6 years ago and wasted so much time diagnosing that I ended up buying all new solenoids, something like 7 or 8 at $50 a pop and like 10 of the check valves at like $10 each. And I made sure that the vaccuum lines were exactly as on the factory diagram. Never had issue after that.
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
(Post 9535830)
Check for a clogged cat. I posted how in the past if you want to search for it.
I'm going through my own troubleshooting for a transition issue so I feel your pain. Today I swapped the connectors for the WG and precontrol solenoids, thinking they could have their lines switched and got no change... Now, what exactly is the turbo control actuator supposed to do when you key on key off after a drive? Is it supposed to move all the way when you KOn and stay there until you KOff... just like the charge control actuator? Just move a little bit every time you key on? |
Is it true that the precontrol actuator largely controls boost pressure before 4500 rpm? The troubleshooting guide states this...
If so, I've been trying to adjust the system ass backwards. I figured the wastegate controlled boost pressure all the time... maybe I just need a MBC on both actuators. I think I'll try that. |
Yes, that's true. Here are some threads with some useful related info on using dual ball/spring MBC's. This is the system I use, and it works great.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=10 |
The TCA will briefly extend during the KOKO test. You'll need a helper to perform this part of the test.
David |
sounds like a problem I couldn't figure out for the life of me. All hoses were connected, bought new solenoids, made sure that they were all getting the right voltage, but for whatever reason i could never hold pressure at 10lbs in the secondary. I'd be interested to know what you came up with.
|
Could it possibly be the Charge Solenoid, maybe it's not letting things open up once the secondary is pre-spooled...The issue with mine right now, is I get no secondary turbo at all. I'm trying to pinpoint that solenoid
|
Originally Posted by TheAsset
(Post 9546840)
Could it possibly be the Charge Solenoid, maybe it's not letting things open up once the secondary is pre-spooled...The issue with mine right now, is I get no secondary turbo at all. I'm trying to pinpoint that solenoid
The valve and actuator should be easily checked with a mity vac and the manual. You could put a mity vac on a long line to the supply lines to the actuators and see if they get good vacuum from their solenoids at transition. |
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 9537172)
Is it true that the precontrol actuator largely controls boost pressure before 4500 rpm? The troubleshooting guide states this...
If so, I've been trying to adjust the system ass backwards. I figured the wastegate controlled boost pressure all the time... maybe I just need a MBC on both actuators. I think I'll try that. |
I've found it's as easy as precontrol adjusts below transition, and wastegate adjusts above transtion. The settings of each relative to each other controls the shape of the transition dip/spike.
Dave |
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 9553431)
I've found it's as easy as precontrol adjusts below transition, and wastegate adjusts above transtion. The settings of each relative to each other controls the shape of the transition dip/spike.
Dave |
^ DaveW are you still using the stock ecu or do you have a PFC with that boost control setup?
nvm, read your post again .. <- slap me anyway, I bet the turbos last longer at stock boost lvls ... ? |
I'm just waiting on another MBC. Pretty confident that will solve my problem.
Glad to have started a constructive conversation... seems like this isn't common knowledge for some reason. I misunderstood the boost control system entirely until I ran into this problem.
Originally Posted by DaveW
(Post 9553472)
Exactly. That's why I run 2 ball-spring MBC's. One controls the PC actuator, and thus, the boost before transition, and the other controls the WG actuator, and, thus, the boost after transition. The lines from the actuators to the solenoids are blocked with solid (no holes) pills. I set the PC at 11 psi, and the WG at 10 psi to optimize the performance w/o fuel cut (stock ECU). See the chart below:
|
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 9555728)
1. I'm just waiting on another MBC. Pretty confident that will solve my problem.
2. Glad to have started a constructive conversation... seems like this isn't common knowledge for some reason. I misunderstood the boost control system entirely until I ran into this problem. 3. Why 11 psi and not leave it at stock 10? 2. It originally took me about a month of reading posts and articles on boost control for the FD before I REALLY understood how it works, so I can easily understand how confusing it is. 3. Actually, the "stock 10" can be more or less than that depending on weather conditions, intake and exhaust flow mods, etc. Remember that there is no feedback with the stock boost "control" system. The stock "boost-control" relies on a predetermined map, and is not very good at actually "controlling" the boost. I set the PC at 11 because (1) I can do so w/o fear of fuel cut, (2) 11 psi provides more power than 10, and (3) with my setup (see my signature) the 11 psi on the PC setting minimized the boost dip/spike at transition. |
keeping thread up to date... adding another MBC worked!
|
Yeah, I found that after I replaced my WG/PC solenoids with MBCs, the boost patterns have become far more consistent.
|
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 9794975)
keeping thread up to date... adding another MBC worked!
Dave |
Check the Crv?
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:45 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands