Oops
 

Hey, uh, on an autometer gauge, that white vaccum tube that goes through the fire wall, um yeah, where the hell is it suppose to hook up too? I was removing my hood/cluster and had to take the a pillar off as the pod was in the way for good leverage and it kinda came off without warning and the little tube, about a foot or so long, is hanging there off the gauge. Is it suppose to be this short, does it hook up to a nipple near the firewall, or did I just break it off and need to get a new hose. It's a very tiny hose, like, shit, just fucking tiny.

what kind of gauge i assume its a boost gauge.. its either T'eed off the hose running to your MAP sensor or connects to one of the UIM nipples..

its its not far enough to reach any of those look for another section of tubing it may have been connected too.. might have just fallen off a tube joint thingy

It probably fits into a slightly larger vacuum hose that goes to the engine bay. Most gauges have this small hose. It's unlikely that it broke off.

If you know where the boost gauge attaches under the hood, you should be able to follow the hose to the firewall. From there, have someone wiggle the line while you look for it from under the dash.

The nylon hose that Autometer supplies is crap. It's easier to push through a firewall - that's about it. The ferrules commonly leak, and it's just a goofy design.

Take the boost gauge to the hardware store and find a 1/8" NPT fitting that will screw into the back of the gauge that has a hose barb on the other side. Then, get a regular vacuum line to run from the barb to the upper intake manifold. This will make for a much better leak-free connection, and you'll actually get better response from the gauge.

Dale

Yeah, the autometer boost guages come with that nylon line. I fed it through the firewall, then used some of the brass fittings it came with, and shoved a regular rubber vacuum line over the fitting that I attached to the nylon line.

But if yours was already hooked up and you pulled it off and it's short, look for a vacuum line coming through the firewall under the dash. Try and hook it back up.

Okay, i think I found where it goes. From the UIM, the vacuum hose runs right to the fire wall and then is mated with the nylon hose, then the nylon hose runs through the fire wall, then it runs back into a vacuum hose which is I believe 1/4'', but has a tiny insert that the nylon hose fits perfectly into, and there is nothing else filling this hole. The length of the nylon hose from boost gauge to this rubber hose under the dash is the perfect length and is the only thing it could go to.

I'm 99% sure this is where it goes and it just came loose when I removed the a-pillar, but I just wanted to make sure.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4885/hosesm6.jpg

looks like u found it. might want to secure it better now :icon_tup:

That's what I was thinking. Now where did I put that gorilla glue.





:rlaugh:

That's most likely it - no other reason for a vacuum line up under the dash.

I STRONGLY recommend re-doing that whole thing like I said and do it right. The boost gauge is a critical reading - if you have a leak in that line, it will show less boost, which can be catastrophic. The boost gauge needs to be dead on accurate. Don't get me started on the Autometer gauge itself...:)

Head to the hardware store, get a brass female 1/8" NPT to 1/8" hose barb. Screw that onto the back of the gauge, and use a little teflon tape on the fitting. Run a new vacuum line - you can use the old one to pull the new one. Done.

Dale

What gauge would you recommend? I actually don't like the AM boost guage to be honest.

I don't like how it's pieced together anyway going from one hose to the next and to yet another hose. It will be redone. Thanks for the tip. :)

You're welcome ;)

I'm really happy with my Defi setup. Click link in sig for pics :ky:

I Also have the Defi. I'm not really THAT impressed with some of the details of the boost gauge (reads in 1.25 psi increments). I would strongly agree with Dale though. When you put everything together, do this the correct way. Especially since it should actually be easier to run a single line from the gauge to UIM than it is to piece together all of the different section, T-fittings, etc. The only benefit I see to hooking to the MAP is that you'd have less of a "reservoir" to help with gauge response. With the ID of the standard vac lines, though, running to the UIM will only affect the response by an amount smaller than you'll be able to notice, and then you're positive that you're getting the manifold pressure.

Do you have the D-gauges? My Link Series II reads in 1 psi increments.
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