Oil pan is still leaking...
ok so now im thiiiisss much closer to getting my car thew the oil pan on with the sealant with the right stuff and this now the 4th time we will be replacing it...
twice with the engine out of the car and now twice with the engine in the car!!! :wallbash: is there any other methods of doing this such as a plastic/rubber gasket? tips or pointers? any help would be awesome!... |
Do you have an oil pan brace? That helps.
I actually have a used Gotham Racing oil pan brace that I will be selling shortly. |
Oil pan brace??
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Yes, an oil pan brace. It helps reduce some of the flexing inherent with the motor and lessen chances for a leak. Banzai Racing and others sell them.
To the OP, IMO preparation is as important if not more than what sealant you use. Tell us step by step how you've been doing it and it might be easier to pin-point the issue(s). Where is it leaking...same place? |
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product..._pan_brace.htm
its a must have if you don't want your oil pan to leak |
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useI use pan brace and the right stuff and never had a problem .Moroso pan brace kit is the chepest and it comes with stud instead of bolts which gives you a big advantage to keeping things tight and you wont strip out the aluminum ever.
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My pan is dry as a bone with the right stuff and no brace. It might also make a difference how you've taken off the pan in the past. You could easily warp it if you don't release the right stuff sealant with a thin paint scraper before popping the pan off. That stuff is hardcore.
Is it leaking from the engine mount areas or what? |
i just cleaned the hell out of both surfaces, used "the right stuff" and used washers on all the bolts for extra surface force.
to date, 3000 miles and not a single drop. |
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right stuff + brace = win
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I used Permatex the right stuff, bought a brand new oil pan, and used the Banzai Racing oil pan brace about 3000 miles ago roughy, and I havent leaked any oil since
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guys i think i got it. thanks everyone for the help!
basically i had the oil pan and the bottom of the block dimpled just a little bit...theory has it if you tap small indentations all around the sealant will have a little extra grip to keep them stuck together. rather than putting the right stuff on the pan, i put the gasket sealant on the bottom of the block. rather than putting it on the pan, you can make sure that all the sealant that you will actually need will be on the bottom of the block. therefore there will be no oil leaking through because you know that you put it on the bottom of the block. also make sure that you put plenty all around. spread it around with your finger and especially a little more around the back side of the engine where you will put the motor mount brackets! took us a good 4 trys to get it right. but we sure did it and became pretty damn good at it!!! thanks for the feedback! |
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 9359566)
You could easily warp it if you don't release the right stuff sealant with a thin paint scraper before popping the pan off. That stuff is hardcore.
I ended up buying a new oil pan and used "ultra black" gasket. Put everything back and left it overnight and has not leak since. |
i had the same problem and it was annoying the hell out of me. to insure i never have any oil pan problems again i bought an upgraded oil pan that holds a whole 6 quarts of oil and uses an o ring gasket seal. one of the best upgrades i ever did.
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Originally Posted by amunoz3
(Post 9364585)
i had the same problem and it was annoying the hell out of me. to insure i never have any oil pan problems again i bought an upgraded oil pan that holds a whole 6 quarts of oil and uses an o ring gasket seal. one of the best upgrades i ever did.
+1. I have the Pineapple version on my motor and I have no leaks. I highly recommend it. I have also extended the pickup about an inch deeper into the pan to take further advantage of the deep sump design. |
I like that idea, except the ones I've see are cast aluminum and hang down below the crossmember...unprotected.
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1 Attachment(s)
Here's a pic of the dimpling I've done:
Attachment 721388 1,300 miles and no leaks so far. My oil pan took a little "adjusting" to get back to straight before I put it on. I dimpled both the pan and the block. |
ook guys i spoke too soon...
:-/ im gettin pissed off here... im about to just take it over to KDR or buy a new oil pan because i have a feeling mine might be warped... this sucks!!! |
Originally Posted by amunoz3
(Post 9364585)
i had the same problem and it was annoying the hell out of me. to insure i never have any oil pan problems again i bought an upgraded oil pan that holds a whole 6 quarts of oil and uses an o ring gasket seal. one of the best upgrades i ever did.
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i would suggest to get the GZ oilpan..it wont leak, even under the most extreme conditions...
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....and always - always let the sealant cure for a day BEFORE adding any oil.
Later |
Originally Posted by R-R-Rx7
(Post 9366805)
i would suggest to get the GZ oilpan..it wont leak, even under the most extreme conditions...
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Installing an o-ringed oil pan on your engine now that you have dimpled it will cause huge leaks. The o-ring needs a flat surface to seal to, you have guaranteed that it is not flat. There are many other issues with the cast aluminum pans that I don't need to go into in this thread.
Even if your pan is warped our brace straightens it back out again. http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...installed2.jpg |
revvin7 is the one that does the work on my car for the aluminum pan. send him a pm for the info.
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