Oil metering pump removal and block off
 

I have done a search re the above and all I get is people saying they should keep it, theres no point removing it, bla bla etc etc.

Now my car is a race car, it runs a microtech so has no control for OMP and the less weight the better, so the OMP is going in the bin (or being sold) and premix is in every tank.

What I need to know is how to block off the OMP mounting point and the injectors for good.

I will make a alloy block off plate, but have heard things about needing to remove the shaft that drives the pump and making a spacer to go in place of the gear. Is this needed or is just the block off plate sufficient?

With the injectors, some posts say to leave them in place and plug the lines off, other say to remove them entirely and use a bolt to block them.....which way is the best?


(please dont post up saying I should keep the pump etc etc. The decision has already been made and the wireing is all stripped out of the loom, there is no turning back)

Thanks in advance guys.

http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_13...imination.html

http://www.pineappleracing.com/block...sandplugs.aspx

wide's correct. Most of us that've eliminated them just block it and the line holes.

^^I am with you two. Not sure who is telling you that it is necessary to keep but there are a LOT on here that have eliminated it. I plan on eliminating it with my next build. Don't just screw some bolt down in the injector holes, use a nicer plug like what is included in the above posted kits. I am sure you can find them at a local hardware store if you do not want to have one of those kits shipped all the way to NZ.

don't forget to premix. :)

Well that was easy. Thanks guys! :)

I made a block off plate, I used a big hinge from the hardware store, cut it to the right shape, also used the bench grinder to finish it up, and I made a template to drill the holes in the correct places, and used the right stuff to seal it. I didn't remove anything from inside there, I think you don't have to. Then some short bolts instead of the oil injectors, with copper washers. mixing 1 oz per gallon, a pint per fill up. No problems. hope that helps.

even if you don't block off the OMP, one should ALWAYS premix. You'll just need to mix more oil in the gas now. BUT always, always, always, premix.


there's a great premix thread on here. I'll see if i can locate it for you.


EDIT:::

Found it.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=premix

How embarassing for you.

Embarrassing? Why?

What he used as a source for fabbing a blockoff plate is immaterial (pun intended)

The results are what counts.

Viking War Hammer used a cooking pot to create a turbo heat shield.
https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/how-build-turbo-heatshield-775713/

Don't laugh, it came out very well.

Right, I didnt think it was embarrassing, I needed to make a block off plate and didnt have any metal that would work and didnt want to spend money on a kit or wait for it so I figured I could find something at the hardware store and fabricate it, works good.

I've made block off plates out of many different things... they all worked just fine. it just has to be thick enough.

Damn, broke somebody's skin again... :) Should I be writing in a certain text color to denote "just fucking around"?

Because generally people buy stock and machine a part from it. If it's nice looking, great... but I imagined a rusting door hinge plate cut with a hack saw and that made me want to playfully poke fun at him.

I'm pretty big on function over form, but there are still some things that remain my dirty little secrets as far as telling ya'll.

Just thought I would post up a few pics of how I did mine for anyone that may be searching in the future. Thanks again for the help guys.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...7/DSC_5079.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...7/DSC_5076.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...7/DSC_5078.jpg

...i had also cut off the plug of the OMP from the engine harness, but as i have a jdm FD, my engine warning lamp tells me an error as my OMP isn't running...

...does anyone know which type of resistor i have to use on which calbe of the OMP or is there a chance to switch the OMP off with the datalogit...?

(for the second part of the question i will be posting this in the PFC forum, hope this is ok, because there are 2 ways to solve the problem...)

Really nothing you can do about it with a factory ECM. The ECM sends an OMP position command depending upon engine load and is expecting to see the appropriate feed back from the OMP being in the commanded position. This feed back is in volts. Consequently, a fixed value resistor will not do what you want.

When you install a block off plate for the OMP on a 13B, do you make a gasket or use some form-a-gasket stuff?

ive used both and either is fine. one or the other or both at the same time. the result is the same. if you use rtv or fipg do NOT glob it on. put a thin layer on the block off plate itself and bolt it down.

When you remove the OMP assy and block it off will your check engine light stay off? Right now I'm getting a faulty OMP code that sends the car into limp mode. I want to just plate off the OMP and premix my gas. This will do me no good however f the car stays in limp mode.

Without a properly functioning OMP the car will remain in limp mode as long as you have the stock ECU.
You have these choices....
*Fix whatever is causing the OMP related CEL. That means replacing the OMP which is generally not serviceable. Keep the stock ECU.
*Fix whatever is causing the OMP CEL, install a standalone programmable ECU and premix at half-rate.
*Install a standalone programmable ECU and remove the OMP, it’s lines, injectors etc and install a block-off plate. And then ALWAYS premix the full rate.

Thanks for the quick reply. I have swapped out the OMP once (with a used one from from a functioning same model RX7) but still have the same limp mode issue, same CEL codes. If simply removing and blocking off the OMP would still result in it going into limp mode it looks like replacing the ECU is the next thing to try. I suppose a good way to check to see if this "new" OMP is operating properly and the ECU is at fault is to swap out the ECU with either a used original one or a new programmable one.
If I remove the OMP, lines etc and block it off, the current stock ECU will not function properly regardless right? Sounds like programmable ECU would be the way to go.
Any advice (links) where I could find a programmable ECU for '90 13B convert.?

Thanks very much!

A vert...... you're in the 3rd gen section you know. You can use a fd power fc in an fc. Banzai has all the details on that

Shoot sorry didn't realize I was in the wrong section. :pat: Thanks very much I'll check out Banzai.

Not certain on the 2nd gen differences but I think the choices remain the same.