oil cooler line removal
 

i have to pull my motor out and the only thing holding it in is the oil cooler line.
i seperated one of them right from the banjo bolt on the engine. the second one has a banjo bolt by the oil filter assembly. taking it off over there is not goign to help me as i have to pull the motor out with the power steering pump.
i see a c clip assembly in the middle of the line, i have removed the c clip. how does the line come apart? does it twist off, pry off? there is barely any room in there to get wrenches in to try and twist and loosen them. maybe i am missing something can somebody help please?

it just pops apart, its probably rusted together, just give it some love

Are you talking about disconnecting the oil line right in front of the block? If so, remove both c-clips, get two 27mm (or 1-1/16") wrenches and pull hard. Don't forget to yell creative cuss words when you inevitably slam the back of your hand into some other engine component.

yes i am talking about the lines infront of the block.
so i have to put wrenches on them and twit it in opposite directions? i don't understand the point of the c lips i thought if i took it out, i should be able to pry the line off.
i don't know how i am ever going to get 2 wrenches on it. i will have no swing.

Yes, it's standard pipe fittings. You have to use two wrenches and twist in opposite directions. The oil lines withstand 200 psi spikes....

You'll have to do it from underneath the car, that's the only way you can get enough space and leverage.

I usually just used a large screwdriver placed on the flang, the approx 1/8 flat surface on the outer edge of the fitting on the hose side that attaches to the engine block, then "push" it free by hitting the screwdriver with a rubber mallet.

I read about the " C " clip but, just used 2 wrenches and they unscrewed. Whats the point of the clip? I left it where it was

I had to remove all oil lines when I upgraded to CWR oil coolers. From below, with two wrenches, it was no struggle to remove the line at the bottom of the engine. One wrench to hold one nut steady, and another wrench to loosen the other nut.

I must be stupid, i finally got under the car. once the clips were removed i could rotate the entire assembly to a point where i could put a wrench on each nut. now the problem is i am comming onto it and they won't budge. the whole car is moving on jack stands but the nut won't loosen from each other. any ideas?

Whoops!

all you have to do is pull the clip
then just pull them apart.

it is an o-ring fitting


The clip is what holds it from pulling apart.

No wrenches needed, (They may help to twist while you pull)

BULLSHIT!

The lines are threaded together with pipe fittings. You need to put down the crack pipe if you think those flimsy little c-clips are holding the two lines together.

maybe_yes: I don't know what you are doing wrong -- I'm a little guy and it didn't take me more than a few minutes to get those lines separated. It wasn't easy that's for sure, but your car sure as hell shouldn't be moving on jack stands! In all seriousness, that is extremely dangerous and there is no way you should be able to do that just trying to separate two fittings. Where are your jack stands?

Let me be clear here. We are talking about the 2 oil line fittings( supply and return ) that have the wire e-clip, and are located between the drivers oil cooler and the engine(except R1/R2 dual set-ups)? Not the threaded inlet on the oil cooler, or the banjo bolts on the engine end?

If the above statement is correct, then these fittings are NOT threaded. They are pushed in far enough so that the flang is past the e-clip slot and therefore are secured by the clip. I have removed clips and seperated these lines at least 50 times, on dozens of FDs. With enough arm strength, and a good angle at them, they can be pulled apart by hand after the clip is removed. As I stated earlier, I use a large screwdriver and a rubber mallet to seperate them.

Mike

For those who can't read/are crack obsessed,

Try Page C-19 of the factory service manual.

All you have to do is pull, but you may need to twist /slip a screwdriver in and pry.

Once the clip is pulled, all that is holding it is the O-ring and whatever rust/crud/gunk has accumulated.

PS don't loose the clips! Mazda wouldn't sell them separately. 65$ for the couplings.

you just have to pull, if they do not come apart, it's rust+age

Okay i replaced my "front" oil cooler lines about a month ago. if you are only removing the front from the rear you only need to get a flat head screw driver and a pair of narrow pliers for the clamp. they are at each end of each line. one that connects to the cooler and one to the rear oil cooler line. Be sure to label or just remember which line goes where when you get your replacement. i want to say that they are sized dumb proof. but i'm in no position to say, but i hope that mine are right. but yeah... remove the C clamps and like what was said before be prepared to bang your hand on something. I did it from the top and bottom with the wheel turned (it'd be easier if it was off). but i had to remove my Intercooler, radiator, and the brace bar that is there after. and getting to the front lines shouldn't be hard from the top or underneath. as for the rear, thank God that i didn't have to worry about that. because space can get tight back there.