the official newbie rebuild rolls on
 

well, due to $$ constraints and the universe conspiring against me... its time for the first official newbie rebuild (in my garage anyway).

couple of initial questions, and they will keep coming no doubt.

1. parts - i'm thinking 'rotary aviation overhaul kit'... is that all i need? i mean i realise if the housings don't spec out it is all pissing in the wind, but if everything comes up relativly clean is the kit all i need?

2. transmission - can i just unbolt this and secure it in place while hoisting the engine up and out... or do i need to drop her completely?

3. anything i should do while i'm there? (no, no single turbo... yet)? i'm thinking Power FC as an afterbuild addition.

4. tools - what extra tools do i need? and i mean really need! the SST's in the workshop manual go forever, but my budget doesn't!

another project for me that everyone said is impossible... last one was a marathon with no training... this can't be THAT hard (famous last words)! she is stripped and ready to hoist now, this is the start of the fun part right?

If you managed to strip it without much trouble, then you should be able to rebuild the motor yourself assuming you are meticulous and pay careful attention to every detail. I would refer to 93BlackFD's recent thread regarding the rebuild he did himself. Just be patient and don't get discouraged. Keep us all posted as to your progress.

Re: the official newbie rebuild rolls on
 

It really depends on the engine. Basically you are replacing anything that is out of spec. So, aside from a rebuild kit, you won't know what else until you crack it open.

You can pull the tranny with the engine or you can leave it under the car supported by a jack. The bell housing bolts can be a pain in the rump as well as separating the tranny from the engine if you've never done it before. IMO, pull the tranny with the engine and separate it outside the car.

Normal stuff: replace all coolant lines, replace turbo oil return lines, replace all gaskets (of course), have injectors cleaned and flow balanced, etc...

Depends on the SST. If you've worked on cars forever, some of the SST's are probably fairly similar. However, if you are like me and this is the only car you ever did your own work, then you won't know about those other tools. Most of the SST's are "just to make the task easier".

i would outsource the bearing installations (main/stationary gear bearings, rotor bearings, pilot bearing) as that will greatly reduce your tool expenses

instead of paying for tools to ensure the condition of your irons, simply have them lapped

take your assembled motor to a shop and check for endplay with a dial indicator (or buy a cheap one from harbor frieght.com (that site will become your friend)

just quietly... EVERY newbie should have a look around thier engine bay.

when it failed on me and we opened the bonnet i couldn't tell what or where bloody anything was (and i'd done my research)... and before you flame me she failed after 6 days and when i got her compression was perfect!

i have learnt so much already, and the engine isn't even out of the car yet... Felix Wankel rocks!

thats the update anyway, intend to hoist strip and clean this weekend.

I think the only "difficult" thing would be the rotor/stationary gear bearing removal/installation. Not difficult, but you do need a press and the bearing install/removal tool from mazda.

From what I understand, in the vast majority of cases, the stationary gear and rotor bearings dont need to be replaced.

btw..

Im in the same boat. I am just about to start my rebuild using the Rotary Aviation kit. I suggest you purchase their 13b overhaul video. Very good at explaining things that are hard to understand in the FSM. A picture is worth 1000 words. A video is priceless. For 25 bucks, its a hell-of-a deal.

Dont cheap out on the dial indicator either, they're not that expensive.

lol..

93BlackFD, you got the motor working and you never purchased a dial indicator? You werent bullshitting with that pic of the budget. I guess if everything was replaced/lapped there would be no reason for it other than your endplay. Im praying my bearings are in spec, if not, they will be going off to Garland, Texas, with the Irons if they are out of spec as well. What did rick charge to lap your irons?

no, i did buy a dial indicator and mag base, i use it for suspension and other things as well

but i was saying, if you wanted to save a buck or two, that's a route you could take...setting endplay is critical, you MUST know what you're doing, hell, PM me when you get to that stage

i just threw my motor in the trunk and went to rick engman's shop and let him walk me through the CORRECT procedure, so now i can regurgitate that to you

about $260 for lapped irons from rick, and $25 for bearing installation

he's such a nice guy, my favorite service he performed was micropolishing the eccentric shaft/pilot bearing installation, the before/after speaks for itself

PM me if you want me to take your e-shaft to him

right, thanks 93blackFD.... unfortunatly i ma based in New Zealand... a long long way away!
have found a mate at a course i do that is a batmobile specialist... good contact to have, but i'm not gonna stop my own rebuild now!

today: well, she is all off except the transmission and exhaust... having trouble getting some insulators out (Right Hand Drive), then she might hoist tomorrow (fingers crossed).

screwed the water pump pully by the way... cracked and broke if you saw an earlier post by me... might go to the greddy pulley kit... does it do anything?!

other than that, have now got the PS and AC detached form the engine without too many major hassles...

the newbie rebuild continues!

what ever happened to this?

well, it's either really bad news, or really good news!