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-   -   Odometer problem (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/odometer-problem-1029607/)

onekwik7 Mar 17, 2013 10:25 PM

Odometer problem
 
My odometer numbers are missing. I did my research and replaced all the cap's and re-soldered any bad looking solder joints still nothing? I called a speedo shop in FL recommended by the forum and they told me they don't have good luck with fd clusters and it sounded like I did everything they would try. So next I called Malloy Mazda and they can sell me a new speedometer but have no way to transfer the mileage. I have low mileage and don't want any mileage discrepancies. The backlight works but no numbers no matter what I try. I cleaned all my grounds on the firewall,ecu etc... I running out of ideas and getting tired of removing the cluster again and again. Anyone have any suggestions??:dunno:

dcchris311 Mar 17, 2013 10:33 PM

That happened to me the other day. All I did was clean the battery terminals and they came back haha. I'm not sure if it will solve yours but its worth a try.

ObliqueFD Mar 17, 2013 10:40 PM

Did you solder on the top side of the board just under the caps?

onekwik7 Mar 18, 2013 10:49 AM

I soldered both sides as it seemed to be a double layered board and I've also tried disconnecting the battery too. Does anyone have any schematics for the board so I can aggrevate myself some more or know how I can tranfer the mileage to a different or new cluster?

Ceylon Mar 18, 2013 10:51 AM


Originally Posted by onekwik7 (Post 11409532)
My odometer numbers are missing. I did my research and replaced all the cap's and re-soldered any bad looking solder joints still nothing? I called a speedo shop in FL recommended by the forum and they told me they don't have good luck with fd clusters and it sounded like I did everything they would try. So next I called Malloy Mazda and they can sell me a new speedometer but have no way to transfer the mileage. I have low mileage and don't want any mileage discrepancies. The backlight works but no numbers no matter what I try. I cleaned all my grounds on the firewall,ecu etc... I running out of ideas and getting tired of removing the cluster again and again. Anyone have any suggestions??:dunno:

You can transfer the eeprom over to the new cluster to retain the mileage. Or repair yours, there are some good guides on here for the repairs.

bajaman Mar 18, 2013 06:12 PM

At this point I'd simply send it to DNA Speedometer.

David Hayes Mar 18, 2013 07:38 PM

That might be the shop to which he is referring but they are very good if not. You can buy the new odometer from Malloy or a used cluster and DNA can set the mileage on the new odo or cluster to match your old one. Or at least they can come close to what you have.

DaleClark Mar 18, 2013 08:02 PM

I have a number of threads on this. You can convert a JDM speedo to work in a US car, and you can also transfer the chip out of the speedo to a new one to maintain your mileage reading.

Search under my name, there's a few threads on this topic.

Dale

ppritchard Mar 18, 2013 08:22 PM

DNA will do you right -- they inspected my cluster and determined "No", so they sent it back to me with no charge. I would highly recommend them for a first step. I've purchased used clusters, only to have the same problem come up. So, I'm thinking first thing is to let DNA decide if it's fixable and if not, go straight to Ray for a brand new speedo. I've wasted time and money and will end up with Ray and the new one any day now.

bajaman Mar 19, 2013 06:29 PM

^ This man speaketh the Truth.

ohioredrx7 Mar 19, 2013 08:29 PM

If you still feel like trying something else before you send it off to get it fixed I found the following issue to be the cause my odometer/speedometer/tach problem.

For me it was one of the Zener diodes near the 1000uF capacitor. It was burnt out and not allowing current to pass through.

I would at least visually inspect the diodes (there are at least a few) for any signs of damage. On mine you could see some small traces of electrical damage around the diode that was bad.

The one that was bad was a 4.7V Zener diode which makes sense because, in general, the signal to drive a tach/speedo is a 5V signal.


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