Not starting?
 

The other day I ran a midpipe just to feel the difference in power. Anyways drove it around for an hour or so just getting the feel, I took it to about 8500 at full boost 10 psi on stock twins. All I have running is a knightsports fuel Cut defencer, Knightsports EBS III, Downpipe, Catback, Intake and the midpipe. I got the car back to my house tried and no spark at first. I put new plugs in and the old ones were toast (Completely fouled). Put new plugs etc and it still won't fire. It gets spark and is on the virge of starting bu won't fire up. I checked all fuses and they are all fine but still no start. I know it's getting spark but seems to be not getting enough fuel or delivery. I didn't spike and I know it held steady at 10, apparently my friend in his sti behind me said I shot a HUGE flame out before my car completely shitted out at the next street.

Yes, I'm running a stock ECU with just the fuel cut and boost controller.

My only guess is a fuel pump. I bought a used 93 fuel pump about 5k ago so is it possible that, thats what went out? I'm completely out of idea's...

do you hear the fuel pump prim before you start it.

what should I listen for I can't really hear to much in FD with bose an all.

There also seems to be a very subtle exhaust leak from the downpipe/turbo area. I know that if the turbo seals were damaged would it not still start?

Also can 10 psi really damage the twins?

whining.

F-100 and F-101 in the workshop manual.

No sound like that coming from it.

connect the data link connector terminals F/P and GND with a jumper wire.

remove the fuel cap.

turn the ignition switch to on.

listen for operational sound of the fuel pump at the filler inlet.

if no sound, measure the voltage the fuel pump connector wire W/R.

if not correct check fuel pump relay and circuits.

if voltage is normal, check for continuity between fuel pump connector A and B.

if there is no continuity replace the fuel pump.

exactly....../\ i had a no start problem a few years back and the wires to my fuel pump were TOAST...almost like something ate through them.

like mentioned above....open gas cap and have someone turn key to on posistion but dont crank...have your ear really close to the fill hole and if its completely quiet you should def hear a few seconds of buzzing/whinning

btw.....i got perfect voltage to the gas tank.....the wires INSIDE the tank were what failed

thats scary!

super scary...

holy... you should play the lotto.

checked fuel pump ~ It was fine


Car almost turns over but doesnt seem to ignited, I think it's flooding honestly. My friend got it fired up once and it ran for a minute but then died out on idle. I deflooded the engine and I think it keeps re flooding. Is it possible that an injector is stuck?

Any idea's?

Also black/blue (very subtle) coming from the turbo/downpipe area. The smell is definetly gasoline though.

Any idea's?

My car has 50K on the clock original.

Also I was running a knightsports fuel cut defenser. Tried running it without the fuel cut and it seems like it won't even attempt to ignite.

if the car floods it will smoke like hell till it warms up so you may need to keep your foot on the pedal till then.
if after you crank it it wont stay running by its self check the tps, and or map sensor?
if both check out you maybe right.

:(
IMO, you almost certainly boost creeped (despite what your boost gauge read), due to running a full exhaust and therefore ran lean, resulting in detonation and a blown apex seal. The knowledge base available through this forum suggests that is what happened. A full exhaust used with the stock ECU, stock fuel system, stock injectors, and no wastegate porting will (under the right conditions) almost always cause creep, with the resulting detonation and blown apex seals. The fuel-cut defenser eliminated the last line of defense (fuel cut) that may have prevented this. No matter how good the boost controller is, it cannot (by definition, creep is intake/exhaust flow modifications overpowering the fully-open wastegate) overcome boost creep.

Do a compression check to diagnose this possibility.

I'm doing a comp test today. I have a feeling that is what happened.

The only thing is that the FCD always made me run extremely rich (all around). If the comp test comes back ok then what could it be though?

Keep the stock cat until you can get a proper ecu. If you need help me and Goodfellafd3s are in North NJ

IIRC, the stock ECU only is programmed for a max boost of 14 psi or so. Plus, nothing, including an FCD, can compensate if you've maxed-out the injectors.

Dave

Ya. Everything that your saying atleast with the symptoms is the exact same thing that happened to me about a month after I bought my FD. It would try to start but wouldnt. Got it to start once, it died, etc etc. It wasa blown apex seal, idk how I did it but either way it doesnt matter. I destroyed my turbos too so I had to replace everything, so I just upgraded.

What did you upgrade to?

just do a compression check like everyone is saying then, you will find the hardest to deal with answer

Either way I wanted to do a rebuild, I just hope I didn't damage the housings or turbo's for that matter.

T04S, 1680cc Sec, Power FC tuned by guys at RX7 store, Rebuilt Pineapple racing block w 3mm seals and street ported-RX7 Store also. 6 puck ACT Street clutch, Greddy Front mount intercooler, deleted AC and power steeringadded like 5 gauges &sensors, walboro fuel pump. Did cross drilled/slotted rotors too and EB greenstuff brakes, stainless steel lines.

If that is the case will these mods prevent it after the rebuild?

Porting the Wastegate
Pettit Unlimited Ecu ~ Combined with the Ebs III
Supra Fuel pump

Prevent what? Prevent it from starting? No, as long as everything is setup and configured correctly.
But why upgrade your fuel pump if your not gona upgrade the fuel line or injectors? theres no real reason to. But if the motor is rebuilt and nothing else is busted then the car SHOULD start just fine.