normal operating temps?
 

I installed a digital temp gauge, just about 1" about the stock sensor.

So what is the normal operating temp for the water? When should i get worried?

David

i think the normal op. temp for the FD is like 80 to 90 i remember my friends fd running at 90 soo your alright..when you should panic is if its over 100..

:AA:

Normal temps are up to 225 degrees. Anything over that, and you better think about cooling down. Over 230, and you are in dangerous territory.

I dont think you ever should be a degree or so above when your fans are set to come on, else they arent doing their job. Heatsoak is another story ofcourse. Hot days and in traffic I never break 94C, Non-Traffic driving 85-89C. My PFC trips the fans @ 94C

Perhaps it is overkill, but I have my PFC fan settings at 85C. The fans do an amazing job of controlling the temperature. They will not let the temperature climb above 85C, even in stop-and-go traffic with recent 35C (95F) Bay Area temperatures.

However, once the temperature goes above that number when the engine is turned off, 87C is the best they can bring it back down to (from a heatsoak high of 110C or more).

I have a stock radiator and, despite having an R1, have a single oil cooler (well, I have two, but the previous owner saw fit to run lines to only one of them for reasons that I can't fathom).

just curious how can you set your fans to come on at certain temps?!!

You need a datalogit.

When cruzin, my temps stay at 180F. Stop and go traffic it'll climb to 210F before the fans come on. I installed a FC thermoswitch so the fans come at 210F if I remember correctly. Usually I just turn on my AC fans when temps start creeping above 180F. The FC sensor is extra insurance.

Much above 100C just everyday driving is pretty warm, I usually stay between 86-90C, but if I drive really hard it may get up to 94-95C. I(and it seems most) shut down around 110C on the track just for reference.

BTW my fans are set to come on at 86C I think, I can't remember exactly but its pretty low.

well, either my gauge is not accurate, or it is not it a good location, b/c at the track it would go to 255F on the track. But i am thinking it is bad gauge/sensor because my fans are not coming on untill about 240 according to my new temp gauge.

I mounted the sensor in the flat part just above where the stock sensor is.

Driving on the freeway at 80 in the 90F weather it is about 190F

So.....

David

Just some info:

Stock Mazda numbers

180degF (82degC) = stock thermostat temp
201degF (94degC) = fans turn on (no load)
212degF (100degC) = fans come on with load

So it appears that the engineers at Mazda designed for a window between 82degC and 100degC. There is margin on the high side however. Under consistent high load and high temps, you can exceed the capacity of the fans and incoming air to keep the car below or at 100degC.

Possible damage level is debatable, the number is somewhere around 248degF (120degC). You may get damage to the water seals at lower temps if spot temps are higher. Also, exceeding this number doesn't necessarily mean you'll instantly fail. Accumulated damage to the seals from running too hot repeatedly is also a factor.

how do you change the settings in your Power FC to control the fans? I need to check mine. Thanks

You have to do it in FC EDIT with the datalog

well i am guessing the new sensor is a) not in a good location, or b) not accurate, b/c i don't remember the stock temp gauge actually ever moving from it's normal reading.

This is not making me feel good either way.

Just noticed I made a mistake:

180degF (82degC) = stock thermostat temp
201degF (94degC) = fans turn on (WITH load)
212degF (100degC) = fans come on (NO load)

The stock temp gauge is center-weighted. It doesn't move to high unless you've toasted your engine.

I don't think there is anything inherently bad about the stock temp sensor location. The problem is at the guage, which isn't linear. For an aftermarket guage sensor, there are other options which are accurate. You might consider moving it to be sure.
For comparison:
With an ambient temp of ~95 F. under boost my temps will climb to 210-215 F. but drop rapidly to ~195 F.....maybe 200 F. w/AC on.
Stock ECU, stock t-stat, R1 (dual oil coolers); Fluidyne, Miata/FC thermoswitch, about 40/60 coolant/distilled water mix with Water Wetter.
I have my sensor here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=temp

i guess ill go let the car idle until the fans come on, which should be at 100F, and then look at the new temp gauge and see it is reading in the same area.

ive just purchased an FD...its in great condition..perfect compression for 30k mile engine..actually 8.1.2.5 Front 8.3.4., 9.0Rear rotor at 271rpm...this sounds good right? well car has koyo radiator..model before nflow..fan mod and downpipe, defi watertemp gauge reads about 180-190F in normal day driving..when i shut off the car and come back 20mins later the gauge always reads 220-225F meaning the water heats up after engine is off due to pump not running? does this mean the engine temp climbs after shutoff? After spirited driving i reach about 200>220F ive never seen over 223 except after car is off...are these expected and safe temperatures when using a koyo radiator with fan mod...when i am in traffic it likes to creep to 200 but if i leave fans on it stays at 180 area..should i be really concentrated on keeping it around 180..i feel like im wearing out my fans

Yes, your coolant temp can climb after shutdown due to heatsoak.
I think the temps your reporting are pretty normal as well. IMO, 200 F., in the summer, in Alabama, in traffic isn't bad.