New Transmission
 

So I've got a tranny that I haven't put in yet because I'm wanting to get a new clutch and flywheel at the same time. I'm probably going to go with the ACT S/S clutch and a lightweight flywheel that has a replaceable surface. I was wondering about a few questions though, like are there any seals that I should be replacing at the same time? Also, is there much of a difference between the 9# flywheels and say an 11# or 13# flywheel? Just basically wanting to make sure all my bases are covered, as I don't want to pull the tranny again for a while after this is done.

I would go with the 11 lb version....little more streetable.

I would consider replacing the rear main seal on the engine, especially if its been on the motor for a while. I didn't do that when I pulled my tranny to replace my clutch fork and have regretted it for the last 3 years or so. I recommend that the counterweight you use isn't grooved to deeply where the seal runs or it (the rear main seal) will wear prematurely.

+1

Also replace the clutch fork while you are there. They break often and are very cheap to replace while everything is out.

That's what the guy at the shop said as well, so I guess I'll throw that on the list. What about the slave cylinder?

Speed of light had great advice. Also replace the clutch line with a S/S one...it will help with the stronger clutch.

More good advice. Here's a graphic example of the problem:

Ok, rear main seal, clutch fork, anything else? Nobody said much about the slave cylinder, so I'm guessing no go on that one.

SS clutch line, and there are a few other parts that are good to do.

- Clutch Release Fork: N315-16-520B (upgraded OEM part)
- Wedge Collar: N315-16-415
- Wire Ring: N315-16-416
- Rear Seal: R501-17-335A
- Bearing, Release: N315-16-510

and good to do:

- Bearing, Pilot: N326-11-D03
- Seal, Pilot Bearing: 1881-11-404A
- Seal, Oil (Clutch Hsg): H501-17-103
- Spindle, Select Lock: R503-17-550 (upgraded OEM part)

FdNewbie sells the whole shebang for 300 shipped.