New Fd owner, Please help with my set up
 

I'm new here and I just recently bought an fd with these upgrades. Fresh Pettit street port engine with about 1200 miles. New ACT clutch w/ HD pressure plate and a light weight flywheel – Pettit updated 5 speed transmission with revised 5th gear and all internal updates, as well as short shifter. 99’ spec Enfini high output twin turbo set running 11PSI of boost (stock ECU), 3” down pipe and 3” mid-pipe with high flow cat. Enfini cast aluminum Y-pipe.

Pettit aluminum air separator and Koyo aluminum radiator. The stock (single) oil cooling system has been completely replaced with dual Fluidyne oil coolers, -10 braided lines, XRP fittings, and oil thermostat which maintains proper oil temperature.


I'm planning to add a Greddy smic with ducting, Racing beat dual exhaust, Power FC, denso pump, manual boost controller, 1300cc side feed injectors to use on the stock secondary rail, and some sort or water/meth injection kit. My goal is to be somewhere between 350whp and 375whp at around 15psi with a good tune.



Is this a reasonable goal with the parts I plan to add? Any suggestions on using different parts or a different setup? Is an aftermarket blow off valve necessary with my set up? Please give me your thoughts and suggestions.

The list looks pretty good. Your HP numbers might be possible if it was tested on a dynojet. Someone might say running the twins at 15 psi will shorten the life while others will say they can handle it.

You might want to check out the auxiliary section of the forum ( if you have not already been there ). They discuss pre turbo/post turbo AI setups. I am trying to decide what direction to go as well.

Good luck.

Oh ya forgot to speak to the BOV question. That is still largely debatable on the forum. I would say if you can handle the extra noise that some produce you have nothing to lose.

Also I noticed you did not mention intakes. Many people run after market intakes, and do away with the stock air box. Depending if the car is for the streets you could do away with the cats, emissions components, run different UIM/LIM setups, and a larger throttle body.

Thanks for the input. I forgot to mention that it came with a k&n drop in with a modded stock box. I tried to check it out but the stock box is such a bitch to open up.

Depending on the size of SMIC you get you can either replace the box with the pipes/K&N or you can do the cheap bastard air box mod. The later is cheaper obviously and keeps the stock look and perhaps allows cooler air to flow in the filters.

was this the white fd for sale in norcal?

I think it already has the cheap bastard mod. My goal is to keep it looking as stock as possible

Nope. It is actually a silver one.

This car actually passed smog with the current mods on with the previous owner. I wonder if it still will pass with the additional listed upgrades in Cali....... Any body have experience on this please chime in.

350 rwhp might be optimistic on CA 91 octane gas. My last motor with a big street port put down 350 rwhp on a Mustang dyno at 15 PSI and 93-94 octane gas, 99 twins, upgraded fuel pump, 1300cc secondaries, mid pipe and supporting mods. It put down 310 rwhp at 10 PSI on CA 91 gas. Never tried higher boost.

after market BOV not necessary.

Check out the mod recommendations and expected power output in the FAQ thread stickied in this forum.

I'll be using meth/water injection. Those are pretty good numbers on a mustang dyno.

fyi on tuning
https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-forum-193/steve-kan-bay-area-tuning-interest-date-uknown-814435/page8/

Cool thanks for the link.

Gracer,

can you expand a little bit more on this:

Do you mean that he won't be able to advance his timing enough to hit 350 RWHP?

you mean you upped the boost 5 PSI and only gained 40 RWHP??? wow... dude either that's the tune or you were suffering from some serious heat there. Your should had been in the range of 375 ish IMO.

350 on a mustang dyno is great with those mods, are you sure you are not getting your car tested on a dynojet??

Do you happen to remember your afr, were you around 11.5?

PFC first before you even try to boost it, I'm surprised your motor HASN'T blown up with the current mods, especially with 11psi and that street port.
The mod list looks good tho. And the 99 spec turbos aren't really high-output.
Best of luck to you!

Different dynos, different days, different tuners, many years in between, different parts of the country, different fuel.

When I first bought the car 5-6 years ago (maybe longer...), it had been dyno tuned and it came with the dyno print out showing 350 RWHP on a Mustang dyno. This is doable on a well ported motor with good turbos, mid pipe, twinpower and supporting mods.

In 2008, a year after moving to CA, it was retuned on 91 octane by Steve Kan at 10 PSI. Some of the changes to the map included less Ignition Timing.

That 350 rwhp number might be doable but would depend on the tuning and the rest of the setup - exhaust, ignition, cooling etc.


I personally don't remember what AFRs on either tune. I have the dyno sheet somewhere. ptrhahn is also around that power output with a ported motor and 99 twins and supporting mods.

Wargasm used to have a site with a ton of dyno plots. It seems to be down right now though.

This worries me. I guess I have to keep the boost down until I upgrade to pfc.

gospel on the forum (or so it seems) is that the stock ecu is capable of handling STOCK ports and near stock boost levels (under 11 lbs). What is worrisome about your car is with the mods you have, coupled with the port and 11psi, I wouldn't be surprised if you see boost creep/spike.

Do the fuel mods first (PFC, injectors, pump) and also do the fuel pump rewire, just search the forum for it. Then add the intercooler and MBC, your other option instead of the MBC is the PFC has a boost control function. I know it's there, but I'm not exactly sure how it works and what additional parts you need as I have a regular EBC so it's not something I looked into too much.

Also if you plan on turning up the boost I would get the intercooler before the catback. As the stock unit really is an inefficient attempt at an intercooler that is prone to leaks. While you're at it get an intake with hard pipes.

I feel like being nice which is why I'm typing this all out. I also remember when I was a COMPLETE noob (I'm still a noob to some extent) and I wanted answers. They're out there, but most other members will just tell you to search.

Like stated previously, PFC first and foremost. Then A/I, then fuel, from there the sky is the limit.

how long ago was that white FD on sale?. maybe I got that FD :-D

Thanks everybody for all your input. I picked up PFC tonight and installing tomorrow morning!