Need advise on swap install 96 longblock Jspec engine
 

Ok I have been out of the RX7 community for 3 years and my FD has been down for that long as well, I finally got the resources to get my a 96 Jspec longblock

I got pretty much everything with the deal

Fuel pump
ECU I think it is the 16 bit ECU,
Harness
Tranny.
alternator,
ac unit compressor
upper lower intake manifold
dual oil coolers
stock intercooler yada yada

Now my Current FD has a blown Engine and a 5th gear syncro that is busted.

I am going to do the engine swap myself, I am pretty mechanically inclined but I have not worked on this car in over 3 years.

This is what I want to get accomplished and I think I will need help on :
I want to stick with the stock dual turbos, should I go with what is in the car or should I use the ones from the 96 Jspec?
I also want to pass emissions in Texas, I live in Denton North Dallas
I want to stick with the stock ECU, do I go with the 93 ECU or can I go with the 96 16 bit ECU.

And I also need a small tutorial on pulling this engine and tranny out of my 93.
I currently have dual oil coolers on there, do I need to disconnect those?

I just don't wanna be spinning my wheels and doing more work than needed.

When this is all said and done I am gonna have a bunch of engine parts that I would need to get rid off, if anyone is interested let me know. After I get this running I want to clear out the garage.

Thanks,

Dale

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/techmenu.html

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/tech-manual-directory-614824/

I'm almost in the same boat as you in that I havent turned wrenches on my FD in some time.
But now that I can put a new motor in it there's no way I'd pop my cherry with a jspec project...
Why didnt you just rebuild the existing motor? What advantages are you looking to gain?
Seems like some major PITA

take the longblock you have now, and swap over all of your externals onto a jspec shortblock. i did this and it was super easy.

Thanks I think I will go that direction,

what about advise on the Turbos, which ones should I go with?

And the ECU, should I go with the 8 bit from 93 or the 16 bit from 96 ?

And the fuel pump are they all the same?

Use the stock 93 ECU. As for turbos, look and inspect both sets. Use the ones that are in the best shape.

As for pump. I wouldn't re-use one. Use the proceeds from selling the JDM/extra external parts and buy a SupraTT pump.

I agree. Except if the car is basically stock and the fuel pump works then just use the one that came with it. No advantage going with a larger fuel pump on a stock car. Even a modified car can get by with a rewired stock pump. It's good for a lot more then people give it oncewhen it has some extra voltage going to it.

Bhp 93-95 US vs 96 Jsppec
 

One more question, what about the Turbos, are the turbos the same om a 93- 95 and JSpec 96? My understanding is the Jspec 96 had 265 bhp vs . 255 for the US model, where did te extra 10 bhp come from?

Thnaks again

Dale N

Jspec's didn't have a precat. Use the turbos that seem to be in better condition.

I would not use your original turbos unless you take off both hot side manifolds and inspect the turbine wheels in full unobstructed view. If you lost an apex seal it probably tore up your turbines on the way out.

I wouldn't use any used turbo from a rotary without pulling off the snail and looking at the exhaust side first. In otherwords check them both.

DO you know if you can pass emissions testing in TX without a precat?

Yes you can. You will still need the main cat and airpump though. Fortunately where I am, I dont have to pass anything so I have a midpipe

PPF will not separate from Tranny
 

I think I am about 80% done on the engine pull, I have removed the main cat and the brackets underneath, however after I have unbolted the 4 bolts on the PPF the PPF just stays up, am I forgetting something, what do I need to do to get the PPF to separate from the Tranny

You don't need to remove the PPF unless you just want to... Undo the bolts to the tranny from the PPF. The PPF will droop down so watch your head. Remove the driveshaft then the tranny will be free if you are pulling the tranny with the engine.

PPF won't budge
 

Thanks for all your help, I am pulling the tranny as well with the engine. I really do not want to remove the PPF. My problem is after i removed the two bolts from the tranny to the PPF The PPF will not budge. I also removed the two other bolts on the other end of the PPF, should I put those back on?

Do I need to remove the driveshaft or does it just slide out from the Tranny, do I need to unbolt anything for the driveshaft? so far I have not unbolted anything for the driveshaft.

Put the nuts back on the diff side of the PPF. Unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. You'll need to do a little origami to get it out from the PPF, but it's doable.

After that, you should be able to pull on the PPF where it attaches to the tranny to pull it down and get it away from the tranny bolts. Once that's done, you can pull the engine with the tranny.

Or you could have just pulled the PPF in the time it came in to ask about pulling it and wait for a reply. The ppf isn't really that much of an issue to pull out. Might be just as well to inspect it for cracks. Sometimes it's just easier to do a little more work to save yourself additional work later. Spend 5 mins to remove a part to save an hr of fighting around it.

I've done it a thousand times before, have some POS part dangling in my way, I cant see around it, I keep bangin my head on it, I can't quite reach the part I need, and after an hr of struggling I realize I should have just taken 2 mins to unbolt that fck'n part.

Thanks I will definitely try that

There are 4 nuts on the tranny side and 4 nuts and 1 bolt on the diff side. I noticed that you've said you've only removed 4 bolts totaled (2 on tranny and 2 on the diff). You need to remove the upper 2 nuts on each side of the ppf to be able to drop it.