Downpipe and CatBack
#1
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Downpipe and CatBack
I'm planning to get a downpipe with the RB catback I have now. I was wondering if I will need a boost controller or anything else to run these two mods safely. The rest of my car is pretty much stock.
I am also getting 8-8-10 boost on my turbos. I got this problem checked out at a rotary mechanic and they think my Greddy boost gauge may be off. Anybody else ever experience inaccurate readings with Greddy gauges?
I am also getting 8-8-10 boost on my turbos. I got this problem checked out at a rotary mechanic and they think my Greddy boost gauge may be off. Anybody else ever experience inaccurate readings with Greddy gauges?
#2
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If you keep the main cat you'll be close to the edge, you'll definately need to remove the boost control pills and go to manual controllers, do a search on here to find more info on that. Unfortunately any mods very quickly put you past what the stock ecu is capable of handling, but with a main cat in place you should be ok with the pills out.
#3
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Re: Downpipe and CatBack
Originally posted by JX7
I'm planning to get a downpipe with the RB catback I have now. I was wondering if I will need a boost controller or anything else to run these two mods safely. The rest of my car is pretty much stock.
I'm planning to get a downpipe with the RB catback I have now. I was wondering if I will need a boost controller or anything else to run these two mods safely. The rest of my car is pretty much stock.
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I was fine with just a downpipe and cat-back but every car is different. I think a boost controller becomes mandatory when you open the intake up in any way in combination with the exhaust mods. When I installed my PFS intake and SMIC, I had to lower the boost setting on the Profec B a LOT in order to maintain 10 psi.
BTW, get a boost gauge (if you don't have one), and then you'll know for sure if you are overboosting/spiking or not. 11 psi is fine on the primary and at transition, but you don't want the boost to be over 10 on the secondary.
BTW, get a boost gauge (if you don't have one), and then you'll know for sure if you are overboosting/spiking or not. 11 psi is fine on the primary and at transition, but you don't want the boost to be over 10 on the secondary.
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Thanks for the help guys.
The only reason I wanted the downpipe was for reliability issues. The car is running fine without the downpipe though and I'm starting to question the neccessity of buying one.
The only reason I wanted the downpipe was for reliability issues. The car is running fine without the downpipe though and I'm starting to question the neccessity of buying one.
#7
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I ran a downpipe and a RB dual tip for a long time with no other mods and the car did fine, but it did occasionally hit the fuel cut on cold days. Just put in a base map PFC and you will be fine with those and you can add an intake as well.
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Get a downpipe. It's the best mod for the car that you can do, hands down. You will probably be fine.
If you do start overboosting, a Greddy Profec B is $300 new, less used. Or you can go the manual boost controller route but I didn't want to have to mess around with that hassle.
If you do start overboosting, a Greddy Profec B is $300 new, less used. Or you can go the manual boost controller route but I didn't want to have to mess around with that hassle.
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Originally posted by Johnsrx7
I ran a downpipe and a RB dual tip for a long time with no other mods and the car did fine, but it did occasionally hit the fuel cut on cold days. Just put in a base map PFC and you will be fine with those and you can add an intake as well.
I ran a downpipe and a RB dual tip for a long time with no other mods and the car did fine, but it did occasionally hit the fuel cut on cold days. Just put in a base map PFC and you will be fine with those and you can add an intake as well.
It shouldn't hit the fuel cut or over boost unless you're getting on it right? I'm just talking about normal driving conditions. I guess that's pretty ambiguous since "normal" is different for everyone