my fd is not holding boost help!
 

hey guys my problem is that i get boost about a peak of 9 pounds but after a certain
rpm 4800 the boost drops to about 3 to 4 pounds and i don't now if the problem is related but i get lil to no boost in 1st gear this is my 1st FD(1st rotary) and i have no exp with this car
my current build is:
rebuild with a mild street port
koyo rad
aluminum ast
greedy front mount
walbro 255 fuel pump
aem ecu (the latest model i forget the model number)
3 bar map (there is also another sensor that u have to get with the aem ecu)
aem a/f gauge
aem boost gauge
hks down pipe
custom 3inch mid pipe
hks cat back
a halman boost manual boost controller
custom intake
i think there is a few more missing but i cant remember right now.
now i think that the boost controller is not hooked up right for the stock twins
pls guys don't tell me to get rid of my twins and there the real prob i already know
how troublesome they are but the bank has already broke 6 mods ago
i used the diagram that the halman controller came with at 1st found out that was wrong i then scearched the site and found this link http://www.robrobinette.com/boost_controller.htm and i try it this way with out a
prespool controller and same result I'm about to throw in the towel and get back a Honda lol cuz this car is not treating me right i have not even driven the car on stock boost levels pls any info wud be great i really feel that the boost controller is the prob
oh i have not done a rat nest delete or simplification the aem solved alot of probs
by bypassing alot of shit (this can also be the prob lol) so pls guys help i took the advice of the some of the Senior member about putting a ecu in the car and they were right im hoping i get the same good advice this time

pls don't mind the bad grammar

check all your couplings..sound like a boost leak.what bov do you have..?

tial q the latest one

Any thoughts guys

Have you done a boost leak test? That would help you figure out if it is a simple leak or something is wrong with your rats nest. It almost sounds like a similar problem I am having, so this weekend I'm retracing all of my vacuum lines, and I rented a vac/pressure tester to make sure the solenoids and CCA/CCV are good.

If you don't have the time/patience to test/fix yourself you may just have to wait to save and take it to a rotary specialist.

A boost problem on stock twins can occur from so many different things, any advice anyone gives you is just a complete guess and probably won't help much.

First thing you need to do is read all the FAQ's and troubleshooting guides on the stock twins and learn how the system works. Then you can start troubleshooting one by one all the possible solutions until you find what's wrong and fix it.

You can also use the search button and look for previous threads on boost problems, there are countless threads on here for so many problems that one of them will solve yours.

Here are a coupe of the standard guides to help you

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-1-sequential-turbos-demystified-841821/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-test-your-solenoids-actuators-other-turbo-stuff-802060/

i have a question can u bypass all the rat nest, solenoids and what ever else is needed to run the stock twin with the aem ecu?

best way to find leaks on the twins is to build 2 couplers for the turbo inlets to pressureize the intake system, you can just cap off the rear turbo inlet and pressurize the primary or vise versa.

Yes, you have to go either simplified sequential, or full non-sequential for that

My prob is still there I would like to know if the ecu im using to bypass all the stock boost controls can be the cause and if that the non ported wastegate can cause low boost and a non functioning boost controller sorry for the bad grammar im at work on the cell posting lol