My crappy suspension...look
 

A few weeks ago my control arm popped out of the socket going down the highway. So I thought i fixed it, but now I'm not so sure. Take a look....


The first picture is of the passenger side, the side that popped out going down the road.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2666060

I wouldnt drive that car at all......not until it is fixed....

this is the drivers side

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2666072

this is the passenger side bolt/nut....

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2666085

and the drivers side bolt....with no nut?!?! maybe this is normal. should there be a nut on the end here?

but as you can see from all the pics, the passenger side is way different that the drivers side. whats up with my car and what is the right way to fix it? i dont know which side is screwed up anymore.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2666093

The balljoints in the upper a-arms are shot. Get them replaced pronto.

you will need new a upper control arm, the balljoints are not the ones you can buy and press in. they were integrated in the arm starting with the 89 and up rx7s. also there should not be a nut on the passenger side. the spindle assembly is threaded.

Hijack... Sorry.

For 50K miles, I have had a noise on the right side of my car that sounds like it is coming from the glovebox(?) I wonder if I could be having a problem with my balljoints?

What is the normal lifespan of these balljoints? Probably not the 200K I have on the car.

Definitely not. :rlaugh:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2666072

BTW, it looks like the boot on your steering rack is shot too...

It looks like the bolt in the pass side is the wrong one..cant tell cause the nut is on. Tha bolt is threaded into the spindle and pinches the balljoint, If this has been a proble before then the bolt might have been replaced...with the wrong one and I believe the pin on the balljoint has a groove in it that the bolt rides against which locks the pin in. If the replacement bolt is smaller (looks lite it is from the pic) it wont hold the pin in the spindle.

This is why one has to *maintain* cars.

It's all part of job when removing wheels to do other work, etc.

Ball joints, CV joints, etc. they all wear out and must be replaced eventually.

Also, might want to replace the weather covering on your steering rack too, it's on it's way out.

THis is one of the reasons I have always loved 7's. There is not a lot of maintenance required. With all those miles, I have only needed to replace a few parts... Mostly for cosmetic reasons. Almost everyone will tell you that my vert looks and drives like new. It has been a great car.

I agree -- too small bolt mean big trouble. I bet the upright is stripped and that's why a different bolt was used. Ideally you would get a new upright if that is the case, but I imagine you could drill out the stripped threads and use a bolt (with a nut) that has the same diameter as the original. That should keep it together.

-Max

so is the ball joint bad on both sides? or just the passenger side?

Your pass side is screwed. Someone got cute and decided to strip out the cast in threads on the steering knuckle, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. The nut and bolt DO NOT provide the clamping force necessary to hold the ball joint properly. That's why the ball joint on the pass side has moved down into the steering knuckle, squeezing out the grease. Your driver's side is normal looking but for the aformentioned steering linkage cover, which SHOULD be replaced, as this allows dirt into the steering set up and causes premature wear.

So. Replace the steering knuckle AND upper control arm on the pass side. replace the cover for the steering linkage on the driver's side (do the pass side as well to be thorough). Go directly to a chassis set up shop and have them re-align the steering, and you should be road worthy once more. Good luck!

happen to know any part numbers?

thanks a bunch, even tho its crappy news, you've all been really helpful

FD15-34-200 - Control arm, upper (R)
FD15-34-250 - Control arm, upper (L)
FD15-33-021 - Knuckle, steering (R)
FD15-33-031 - Knuckle, steering (L)

If you replace a knuckle, you'll have to either transfer over your wheel bearing and hub or replace them...

GA55-26-15X - Bearing & Hub
LA01-33-042B - Wheel bearing nut
GA2A-26-071 - Cap, hub

The cheapest solution is probably to drill out the damaged threads as Max suggested and then use a bolt with a smooth shaft for part of its length and of the proper size to retain the ball joint shaft. A lock nut or some Loctite on a nut should keep it from going anywhere, but a castle nut and cotter pin (through a hole drilled in the shaft of the bolt) would probably be the safest solution.

Drill it out and re-tap it.

Way more cost effective and just as safe.

Although you're going to have to seperate the knuckle from the lower ball joint as well - you've got your work cut out for you.

Don't use a pickle fork unless you plan on replacing the lower ball joint as well.

i was right...you do know everything!

Well, one or the other, but not both. :)

The bolt is a 14mm, I believe, so the shaft is probably 10mm x 1.5 thread pitch, but you'd want to double check, obviously. Running a tap through might clean up the threads good enough, and then you could just buy a new bolt, PN 9YA15-1001.

Putting a nut and bolt through the hole will give the correct clamping force but the bolt diameter is most likely threaded in the area it should be smooth and solid.

I'd replace the part that the bolt should be tapped into without a nut/bolt.

DO NOT use a pickle fork. Pickle forks will ruin the aluminum that is pressed around the ball joint to hold it in. Take a big hammer and hammer on the side of the hole where the ball joint connects to the spindle. This will pop the ball joint taper out of the spindle part.

Yep.

And if doing the lowers, leave the suspension damper connected and jack up the knuckle with a jack on the inner part of the brake rotor. This will apply opposing force to the lower ball joint making it much easier to pop out when you hammer the knuckle.

Upper shouldn't need that same trick, it has the weight of the suspension pulling on it already.

Good luck. My car had a similar problem. It is now 4 months/$4000/new control arms and two sets of JIMLAB bushings later and I am just finishing.

Cheers to CLAYNE, as maintaining is key!