My cherry (rotary) has been popped, what did you do?
 

Just wondering how many of you who have had to replace an engine did it yourself? how hard on a scale of 1-10 is it do you think? Im just gonna put it back together with my single turbo since it will be easier and im pretty sure I heard the apex go through the stockers.

Also if you had a shop do it how much did they charge you (parts not included) I just got quoted 1800 for the full swap. this guy has done one before on a completely stock car and told me its the worst hell he has ever endoured (hence this post)

Ive rebuilt and replaced the pontiac 400 engine on my trans am, and ive swapped an 3800 v6 on a lumina, but never anything on a rotary? you guys think I can do it in a reasonable amount of time?

can anyone point me to a good writeup?

and im not 100% positive about my engine being dead, just about 95% sure... i will have somone more knowledgeable test it before i replace the motor. (for those of you who read my other post)


Thanks, Mike

Mike,
If you pulled a 400 you can probably pull your engine. It just has more hoses. Just mark everything. It sounds like you have the mechanical apptitude to do the job. Save the money and pull it yourself. (I would buy the manuel or purchase the cd). If you have problems ask and others on the forum.
Chris

you'll be fine

if your gonna run a single it's even easier to install.

look into rebuilding it yourself. You'll be surprised how many times that comes in handy. If not your- other peoples.

I'm gonna rate the R&R job at a 6 overall. It's really not too bad. Also, the guy that gave you the quote probably exagerated the difficulty so 1800 didn't seem so far out of line. I think the going rate is around 1000 for R&R.

Mike, if I were you I would just pull the engine and turbo manifold to do a quick inspection. It's very easy to see and feel inside the rotor housings for damage. All the noises you heard could have easily just been carbon breaking off the rotors and hitting the turbos. Thats doesn't necessarily mean the apex seals have blown. I have a write-up else where on this forum showing how to manually clean out all the carbon on a engine without disasembling it. I've actually done this process on my 20b and my 13b w/75k original miles with great results. This process will only cost you a couple bucks.

Easiest shit I have done... next to the tranny conversion of course lol

Seems like you are mechanically inclined. You should be able to do it and if you get stuck, you always have the forums. hehe..

getting the right surroundings and some odd tools is going to be the hardest part. big ass air gun for the flywheel, trans bar to help lifhting the trans on install, hoist, but come on man its all ball bearings these days!

Let me know when you need help. Honestly, its not that bad. Pull the tranny with the motor and seperate on the ground. I have a hoist i can bring over, where ever you decide to do this.

thanks everyone, you have calmed me a bit, this has been a very stressful ordeal that i thought would be a couple of more years away. bobby, thanks for the offer... i will probably call on you, im going to talk to my boss and see if he will let me do the install in the shop... their is a hoist and stand there so it shoudlent be too bad... I just have to make sure i have EVERY part needed so the car isnt stuck in the shop for weeks.

i guess the only question left is what kind of porting i want ;)

scale 1 - 10 exhaust being a 2, engine pull is a 3.5-4

if you have access to a Sigmoido scope, drop it down the LIM and take a look at each of your apex seals as you rotate the engine by hand slowly.

(note this item cost about 2k for a used/broken one and about 5-6k for a new one. the good thing is that the light sorce which is needed only cost about 500-1k ;))

I'm lucky I have access to one :)

as for swapping out your engine, if you got air tools/all tools necessary and a cherry picker and all the rebuild stuff needed (including housings) and your not a lazy ass and can make simple lables and/or video tape exactly what to took off and where it goes; it should take you about a weekend or so. it only takes about 5 hours to pull the engine for beginners (that seems to be the concensus) and about the same amount of tiem to drop it back in (probally less as most of the time you'll be swearing at each of the bolts which have seized to various items due to the heat and time of a 10+ year old car). perhpas you should buy the video rebuild lessons availble on line (one is for the engien and one is for specifically pulling a fd engine out of a fd and reinstalling it).

BTW: its gonna go a lot faster if you got a lift

also note, you can take off any bolt/nut with a 8 foot pipe and a breaker bar (even the flywheel nut hehe) :)

goodluck man

if you have access to a Sigmoido scope, drop it down the LIM and take a look at each of your apex seals as you rotate the engine by hand slowly.

(note this item cost about 2k for a used/broken one and about 5-6k for a new one. the good thing is that the light sorce which is needed only cost about 500-1k ;))

I'm lucky I have access to one :)

as for swapping out your engine, if you got air tools/all tools necessary and a cherry picker and all the rebuild stuff needed (including housings) and your not a lazy ass and can make simple lables and/or video tape exactly what to took off and where it goes; it should take you about a weekend or so. it only takes about 5 hours to pull the engine for beginners (that seems to be the concensus) and about the same amount of tiem to drop it back in (probally less as most of the time you'll be swearing at each of the bolts which have seized to various items due to the heat and time of a 10+ year old car). perhpas you should buy the video rebuild lessons availble on line (one is for the engien and one is for specifically pulling a fd engine out of a fd and reinstalling it).

BTW: its gonna go a lot faster if you got a lift

also note, you can take off any bolt/nut with a 8 foot pipe and a breaker bar (even the flywheel nut hehe) :)

goodluck man