G-05 is a Hybrid Oragnic Acid Technology (HOAT), which uses both inorganic and organic acid additives for long life protection. G-05 also has benzoate as a corrosion inhibitor for aluminum. It is also a low-silicate, low-pH and phosphate-free chemistry (good for gaskets & sealants).

The objective with HOAT is to provide excellent all around protection and extended drain intervals, which is every 2-years (I'll never go 5-years).

HOAT coolants generally can replace or are compatible with green "inorganic acid technology" (IAT) in older vehicles (mix no more than 10% of coolant capacity).

Chrysler used conventional green IAT coolant until 2001, when they adopted G-05, a hybrid coolant.

Ford followed suit in 2002, dropping the green IAT for G-05 factory fill and extending the drain interval. Mercedes and BMW use it as factory fill.

Variations of HOAT coolants have been around for more than 50 years.

It is really is a MUCH better chemistry. It costs about $11-$15 gallon, but you're only replacing it every 24-months.

:-) neil

Change coolant at least 1 time a YR is a cheaper way to avoid expensive repairs.

ive seem cars with over 200k and 20+ yrs old with their original rad/water pump just because the cooleant was flush as required.

I had the same experience last time I changed the coolant.

I went through 4 cycles with draining, filling with desstilled water, heating and draining before it started to looks 95% like water should looks like.

For all of you who don`t know where this drain plug is:

http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/images/...drain_plug.jpg



btw. I´ll give this one a try, this year:

http://www.millersoils.net/M3_cgi/bo...Extra_Cool.jpg

regards
Marc

The coolant on my 56k mile FD has been changed probably 15 times since I bought it 12k miles ago (haved dicked with my car way too much) and even just six months after the last change (as mentioned above, with a coolant system cleaner and several distilled water flushes) it had a nasty brown colour when I drained it.

I just flushed with distilled water three times and the drained fluid from the final flush is still a bit funky looking, with a quite a few floating particles. Engine runs very well (just passed a CA emissions test by a large margin) so really not sure where all the goo is coming from.

Thanks to this thread I flushed my system yesterday. Ever since I had a blown coolant seal, my oil and coolant became best friends.

I have since separated them. The reservoir was completely coated in slimy oil that didn't need to be reintroduced to clean coolant.

I also installed my apexi AST from Carol.

I had a good experience with the off the shelf flush cleaner stuff. Something citrate. Worked well.

Thanks again.

You guys can take this with a grain of salt, but working as a technician, I see strawberry and chocolate milkshakes all the time and I never had better results then using Shout laundry detregent. the powder kind, half a box to a gallon of water and fill the rest of the coolant system run the car for an hour or longer, drain and rinse the system a few times the car smells like fresh laundry and the system is completely clean, and this works way better then all the BG cleaning products, and it cleans all the oil and sludge out in a mix up, I couldnt see it not working well for a regular flush

I have had good luck with liquid TIDE as a de-oiler with at least 3x flush/drain.

Mercedes recommends a citric-acid flush as a de-scaler, afterwards.

:-) neil