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-   -   Mobil 1 Oil users (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/mobil-1-oil-users-850027/)

eyecandy 07-05-09 11:35 AM

Mobil 1 Oil users
 
I use Mobil 5w30 in my Lexus IS300, and have been thinking of making the switch in the RX7. Is seem as though most use 10w30 or 15w50. I have been seeing more and more Manufactures (Germans) going with a 0w-40 or 5w-40 (or 50 in come cases) as the specified oil, and more oil companies promoting a 15w-50. I even know Greddy has a 10w-60 and say its good for rotaries...

And are you guys still using the Metering oil pump, or premixing?

tt7hvn 07-05-09 12:40 PM

i use idemitsu, great stuff

1QWIK7 07-05-09 12:51 PM

I dont drive the car much nor do i NOT change the oil when needed so i go with the off the shelf 10w-30 all year round.

Maybe someday when my car is ready for the track, ill look more into oil properties but if your car is mostly street driven, 10w30 or 20w50 in the summer is just fine.

I actually got a sale for a 5 quart jug mobil 1 clean 5000 10w30 at autozone for 10.99 so i bought that.

Normally i use castrol gtx 10w30.

In my altima, i use whatever is on sale. (oil and filter sale)

adam c 07-05-09 01:30 PM

I use 10/30 because Costco has it pretty cheap. My climate is pretty moderate, so no need for a heavy or super light mix.

eyecandy 07-05-09 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by adam c (Post 9335955)
I use 10/30 because Costco has it pretty cheap. My climate is pretty moderate, so no need for a heavy or super light mix.


Thats were I get mine for the IS, or sometime Pepboys or Advance auto has a 5qtw/mobil filter for $30 (great deal), but I strictly use OEM Mazda filters for the RX7. My 7 only sees the road typically April-Nov, 40-90F, however more so in the summer, but where I live the summer are hot in humid upper 80's/90s with high humidty (cooler humid mornings 60-70degrees), so I was thinking a heavier weight (15w-50) would suit better, or perhaps there 5w-40 for those cooler times and better for the engine all around especially during startup, but still has the viscosity for operating temps.

My car has not been on the road for a year, but when it was and for the past 4 years I used Castrol 20w-50, but after doing a bit of research the 20w when cold is a bit on the thick side, most wear happens during the startup or cooler temps.

oo7arkman 07-05-09 03:38 PM

I have been using the mobil1 10/30 and everything seems just fine... I made the switch to that from gtx 10/30 for over 4 years and with 30k miles the last compression test was A+++ I also do the same as you and only use oem mazda filters.

era1oner 07-05-09 03:45 PM

i use 5w20 royal, works good no grinds or smells like the otheres

eyecandy 07-05-09 04:06 PM

Please post if you are using the metering oil pump or premix, and if possible leave the votes to Mobil1 users only, you are welcome to chime in on a different synthetics as some has already, if you are one of those please mention if using metering oil pump or premix.

FixableUnknown 07-05-09 04:22 PM

Mobil 5-30
OMP and Premix

smog-guy707 07-05-09 04:22 PM

ive been runinng mobil 1 10/30 with mobil 1 oil filters for almost two years now in my rex. would recommend anything else... also i am premixing, if you wanted to know?

oo7arkman 07-05-09 04:48 PM

Sorry, my omp is still in use and I also premix.

Sgtblue 07-05-09 06:50 PM

Mobile 1 10w-30 in spring and fall, 15w-50 when it's hot. I use the OMP, but a little supplimental premix for the occasional autocross.

wReX 07-05-09 09:28 PM


Originally Posted by Sgtblue (Post 9336443)
Mobile 1 10w-30 in spring and fall, 15w-50 when it's hot. I use the OMP, but a little supplimental premix for the occasional autocross.

Same. Mobile 1 + OMP + I usually mix some MMO with the gas and oil.

jhaywood 07-06-09 03:05 PM

Just switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 from 10W-30 after extensive opinion/data searching :)
FC Purolator PureOne filter, stock OMP.
I have the Pineapple stage 3 oil mod from the engine rebuild.
The car only really comes out to play during the summer now, so I'll probably stick to only 15W-50.

R-R-Rx7 07-06-09 03:08 PM

according to mazda workshop manual:
temperatures that are from 32F and higher should use 10w 30
lower temperatures than 32F should stick with 5w 30

Sgtblue 07-06-09 03:39 PM


Originally Posted by R-R-Rx7 (Post 9337911)
according to mazda workshop manual:
temperatures that are from 32F and higher should use 10w 30
lower temperatures than 32F should stick with 5w 30

MAZDA FSM also instructs you to change plugs from above.

As mentioned previously, I use 10w-30 in the spring and fall, when ambient is between about 55 F. and 75 F. Higher than that, and I move to 15w-50. It does seem to maintain better oil pressure once hot, especially toward the end of the change interval....but granted that's subjective.
I think few of us run these cars through the winter anymore, so the "below 32 F." suggestion isn't very critical anymore.

no_more_rice 07-07-09 10:34 AM

Amsoil 20w-50 or Valvoline racing 20w-50. The oil in these cars thins out extremely fast (documented in numerous UOAs, you can also see it by monitoring the oil pressure) because of fuel dilution and turbo abuse. Run a higher viscosity oil and change it at 2000 miles. Running a low viscosity oil might new you a couple of hp, but doesn't not protect the engine as well.

Julian 07-08-09 12:11 PM

I use Mobil 1 10W-30 and 15W-50 have on all my RX-7's since the 80's. Probable moving over to 0W-40. Car not used below about 40-50 deg.

Diff and Trans fluids Redline 75W-90NS and MT90 respective.

Julian 07-08-09 12:13 PM


Originally Posted by eyecandy (Post 9335810)
I use Mobil 5w30 in my Lexus IS300, and have been thinking of making the switch in the RX7. Is seem as though most use 10w30 or 15w50. I have been seeing more and more Manufactures (Germans) going with a 0w-40 or 5w-40 (or 50 in come cases) as the specified oil, and more oil companies promoting a 15w-50. I even know Greddy has a 10w-60 and say its good for rotaries...

And are you guys still using the Metering oil pump, or premixing?


Manufactures number one goal is fuel economy. thus trend to 0W, racing goal is max Hp thus 0W

jhaywood 07-08-09 02:16 PM

The 15W-50 Mobil 1 has levels of phos & zinc comparable to yesteryear for protection if you see momentary film breakdown (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf)
This doesn't mean much for a DD, but if you track your car, it is a nice safety cushion.

Julian 07-09-09 11:18 AM

switched to 0W-40 today

eyecandy 07-09-09 08:51 PM


Originally Posted by Julian (Post 9345546)
switched to 0W-40 today

Keep us in formed!

andre sinclair 11-11-11 07:07 AM

oil/premix
 
I had used Castrol 10W40 on a rebuilt motor, once I reached 1200 miles I switched to Mobil 1 10W40.

OMP disabled as I`m using 8 oz of idemitsu premix per tank.


Andre

sephir0th 11-11-11 07:24 AM

Penrite HPR-30 which is 20w60. I live in Tropical Cairns, Australia.

Julian 11-13-11 01:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Still running the 0W-40; this oil has Phos and Zinc levels (1000, 1100 ppm respectively) closer to the olden days

Matt535 11-13-11 06:44 PM

My car had done 79,000km when I got it. It's now done 89,000km with me. Compression checks out fine, oil pressure is normal.

I run Penrite HPR 20W-60 MINERAL oil in it, along with an off-the-shelf Ryco oil filter.

Metering pump is still hooked up. But I add some Castrol 2-stroke oil (designed to mix with fuel) to the fuel tank every other time I fill up.

*My personal belief is that mineral oil is better for rotaries, because it will burn more completely when injected.
I think that running/injecting synthetic oil (like Mobil 1, etc) will cause sludge build up in the seals, due to incomplete combustion of the synthetic oil. I may be wrong, and I'm open to all suggestions though :)

1QWIK7 11-13-11 07:08 PM


Originally Posted by Matt535 (Post 10860579)
My car had done 79,000km when I got it. It's now done 89,000km with me. Compression checks out fine, oil pressure is normal.

I run Penrite 25W-60 MINERAL oil in it, along with an off-the-shelf Ryco oil filter.

Metering pump is still hooked up. But I add some Castrol 2-stroke oil (designed to mix with fuel) to the fuel tank every other time I fill up.

*My personal belief is that mineral oil is better for rotaries, because it will burn more completely when injected.
I think that running/injecting synthetic oil (like Mobil 1, etc) will cause sludge build up in the seals, due to incomplete combustion of the synthetic oil. I may be wrong, and I'm open to all suggestions though :)

Please don't initiate a dino vs syn oil war, there's plenty of threads already if you search.

There are countless guys who been running syn for years. Idemitsu is a full syn formulated specifically for rotary engines.

I been running a full syn for almost 2 years now. I wont go back to dino. Especially now since my other car requires syn. I don't want 2 brands of oils in my stock. I wanna use just one. So I use royal purple in both my car cars.

Matt535 11-13-11 07:15 PM


Originally Posted by 1QWIK7 (Post 10860625)
Please don't initiate a dino vs syn oil war, there's plenty of threads already if you search.

There are countless guys who been running syn for years. Idemitsu is a full syn formulated specifically for rotary engines.

I been running a full syn for almost 2 years now. I wont go back to dino. Especially now since my other car requires syn. I don't want 2 brands of oils in my stock. I wanna use just one. So I use royal purple in both my car cars.

Well one bottle of synthetic (as an example, Castrol) in Australia is $76.99 (Mobil 1 is around $84.00)
A bottle of mineral is around $22-$30.00.

We have a heater in the workshop that runs on used oil. Mineral burns fine. It doesnt love synthetic, and the nozzle always clogs.

I'd love to run the $76 oil, because it would stand the heat in the turbos much better than mineral, but the cost and the sludge worry just doesnt justify it for me.

Captain_Panic 11-13-11 07:19 PM


Originally Posted by 1QWIK7 (Post 10860625)
Please don't initiate a dino vs syn oil war, there's plenty of threads already if you search.

There are countless guys who been running syn for years. Idemitsu is a full syn formulated specifically for rotary engines.

I been running a full syn for almost 2 years now. I wont go back to dino. Especially now since my other car requires syn. I don't want 2 brands of oils in my stock. I wanna use just one. So I use royal purple in both my car cars.

+1 to royal purple and not keeping more oil in stock then necessary

1QWIK7 11-13-11 08:49 PM


Originally Posted by Matt535 (Post 10860636)
Well one bottle of synthetic (as an example, Castrol) in Australia is $76.99 (Mobil 1 is around $84.00)
A bottle of mineral is around $22-$30.00.

We have a heater in the workshop that runs on used oil. Mineral burns fine. It doesnt love synthetic, and the nozzle always clogs.

I'd love to run the $76 oil, because it would stand the heat in the turbos much better than mineral, but the cost and the sludge worry just doesnt justify it for me.

Good to know you're up to date with synthetic oils and the feedback on this forum :rolleyes:. You're still living in the past where syn wasnt opt for our engines.

You're sadly mistaken man. But i guess do what you will, its your car afterall.

f2racer 11-14-11 07:07 AM

I use M1 0W40... In my 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0T. I also only change the oil every 10k miles in that car.

My RX-7 now has over 112k miles on it's original (and still running like a top - knock on wood) engine. I generally use whatever 10W40 is cheapest (I have run 10W30 as well) at Walmart/Autozone/Consumer Auto Parts, and I change at 2k mile intervals. IMHO, due to the short OCI, there's very little benefit to getting synthetic oil.

My Saab goes 5 times the distance on an oil change (and has 93k miles on it and has never had any mechanical issues) and M1 0W40 is both the factory fill as well as the recommended oil. I figure that the Saab/GM engineers did their homework so I'll continue to use M1 or GC (German Castrol Syntec) 0W30 for it's oil changes.

I may simply be lucky with my FD, but I plan to continue to use cheap dino oil. Due to recent oil reformulation, I may start using a ZDDP additive, but there seems to be an ample supply of oil that uses older specs.

ptrhahn 11-14-11 08:06 AM

I run 20/50... but has anyone noticed that they don't sell 20/50 Mobil 1 anymore? I've since switched to Amsoil, which just happens to be sold in the local auto parts chain.

Sgtblue 11-14-11 09:04 AM


Originally Posted by ptrhahn (Post 10861212)
I run 20/50... but has anyone noticed that they don't sell 20/50 Mobil 1 anymore?....

Mmmmm, I just bought some a few weeks ago at WALMART....but now that you mention it, I did have to buy it by the quart. I just assumed they were sold out of the gallon jugs though and I talked the clerk into selling me the quarts at the same (sale) gallon price.

ptrhahn 11-14-11 09:28 AM


Originally Posted by Sgtblue (Post 10861269)
Mmmmm, I just bought some a few weeks ago at WALMART....but now that you mention it, I did have to buy it by the quart. I just assumed they were sold out of the gallon jugs though and I talked the clerk into selling me the quarts at the same (sale) gallon price.


FYI, it's completely off the shelves at all of the local auto parts stores and even gas stations in this area.

1QWIK7 11-14-11 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by ptrhahn (Post 10861212)
I run 20/50... but has anyone noticed that they don't sell 20/50 Mobil 1 anymore? I've since switched to Amsoil, which just happens to be sold in the local auto parts chain.

Still have it over here but I never ran anything that thick (that's what she said) so I wouldn't mind if they pull it off the shelves for good.

97SupraTwinTurbo 11-15-11 06:27 PM

I will be using a 15w50 race synthetic from here on out. It will not be mobil1, only amsoil.

rgould 11-15-11 06:57 PM

Joe Gibbs Racing HR2 conventional 10w30 high zinc :icon_tup:

Sgtblue 11-15-11 08:08 PM


Originally Posted by ptrhahn (Post 10861291)
FYI, it's completely off the shelves at all of the local auto parts stores and even gas stations in this area.

I'll have to check around. Usually only go to WALMART for oil or to feel thin. But now I'm curious....though it wouldn't surprise me to NOT find M1 15w 50 on the shelf this time of year in fly-over country.

SWAT81 01-22-12 08:10 AM

Anyone ever use Mobil 1 Synthetic Extended Performance?

Julian 01-22-12 01:18 PM

still happy with Mobil 1 0W-40

Julian 01-22-12 01:52 PM

Per the Mobil guide 0W-40 offers some of best of all worlds. Low cold viscosity that then thickens (an advantage of synthetic). Wear protection of high Phos level of 1000 and Zinc of 1100, very good levels and above typical 800/900 or todays 650/750

Rank of Mobil 1 full synthetic’s by phos-zinc levels and API passenger car classification
1) Mobil 1 Racing: 0W-50, 1750 / 1850 - Racing oil, non-API no detergents to carry dirt .. must change after each use
2) Mobil 1 Racing: 0W-30, 1750 / 1850 - Racing oil, non-API no detergents to carry dirt .. must change after each use

3) Mobil 1 V-Twin: 20w-50, 1600 / 170 - 4-stroke Motorcycle oil, API SJ

4) Mobil 1: 15W-50, 1200 / 1300 API SM, SN – HTemp (HT), HService (HS), Racing
5) Mobil 1 Racing 4T: 10W-40, 1200 / 1300 4-stroke Motorcycle. API SH, SJ, SM

6) Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck: 5W-40, 1100 / 1200, API SL, SM
7) Mobil 1 :5W-50, 1000 / 1100, API SM, SN, - HT/HS, Porsche approved
8) Mobil 1 :0W-40, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL, SM, SN, - HT/Turbo Service (TS), Porsche, BMW, GT-R approved
9) Mobil 1 High Mileage: 10W-40, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL, SM, SN
10) Mobil 1 High Mileage: 10W-30, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL
11) Mobil 1 High Mileage: 5W-30, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL


Originally Posted by SWAT81 (Post 10947107)
Anyone ever use Mobil 1 Synthetic Extended Performance?


12) Mobil 1 ESP Formula M: 5W-40, 800 / 900, Diesel MB approved
13) Mobil 1 ESP Formula: 5W-30, 800 / 900, Diesel MB, BMW, VW approved
14) Mobil 1 Extended Performance: 10W-30, 800 / 900 API SN
15) Mobil 1 Extended Performance: 5W-30, 800 / 900 API SN
16) Mobil 1 Extended Performance: 5W-20, 800 / 900 API SN

Smokey The Talon 01-23-12 10:15 AM

FWIW I've been using Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 and I have been very happy with it. As a bonus, WalMart sells it in gallon jugs for around $25. Easy to pick one up and be good to go.


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