midpipe w/airpump?
Is it possible to use a midpipe while using the stock airpump?
Thanks |
yes, but there is no point to it.
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just unplug the airpump so that it isnt using any power off the engine. then buy the greddy pulley kit and remove it
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Originally posted by evot23 yes, but there is no point to it. |
Originally posted by Rx7pimpin Why is there no point? |
I think if you unplug it you need to put some kind of resistor in so that the ecu thinks its still there.
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The essential answer is yes, it can be done. I did that for many years. I just took off the tubing and pipe that goes to the main cat.
There is a point if you intend/need to put back the main-cat for smogging purposes. It's well known that an airpump on the shelf, or not turning will freeze up and be useless. |
if you are running a midpipe you should have some kind of ecu upgrade so unpluging the air pump wont hurt anything. it will run
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get a 4 ribed 30 inch belt and just remove it you dont need the greddy pully kit to do that!
Marc |
Originally posted by jramosrx7 There is a point if you intend/need to put back the main-cat for smogging purposes. It's well known that an airpump on the shelf, or not turning will freeze up and be useless. |
Originally posted by Rx7pimpin Why is there no point? |
There is a point if you intend/need to put back the main-cat for smogging purposes. |
Guys, on the non-cali model FD's the airpump is controlled through a relay (I'm not familiar enough with cali models). Since the coil of the airpump relay is still in the circuit the ECU doesn't notice any difference in current flow when energized.
This is one of the very few things that can be removed without worring about the ECU having a fit over... |
Originally posted by es Guys, on the non-cali model FD's the airpump is controlled through a relay (I'm not familiar enough with cali models). Since the coil of the airpump relay is still in the circuit the ECU doesn't notice any difference in current flow when energized. This is one of the very few things that can be removed without worring about the ECU having a fit over... |
I bought my FD from Florida and removed the airpump. Idle fluctuates badly so I'm guessing the ecu is having a fit with it? :( Guess I'll have to get a pfc. I have all the bolt on mods.
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possible, yes...
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Originally posted by RX7 RAGE I bought my FD from Florida and removed the airpump. Idle fluctuates badly so I'm guessing the ecu is having a fit with it? :( Guess I'll have to get a pfc. I have all the bolt on mods. The Idle air adjustment screw is on the bottom of the throttle body toward the firewall side. You'll need a mirror to see it. There is even a small notch in the bottom of the Throttle body elbow flange for clear access of this screw. |
Originally posted by es Not necesarily the ECU having a fit with it, but more that the ECU is tuned to idle with that extra air being injected. You probably need to adjust the idle air mixure & possibly the idle RPM until it cleans up. (it's a good idea to install a fresh set of plugs before these adjustments) The Idle air adjustment screw is on the bottom of the throttle body toward the firewall side. You'll need a mirror to see it. There is even a small notch in the bottom of the Throttle body elbow flange for clear access of this screw. |
Originally posted by jramosrx7 There is a point if you intend/need to put back the main-cat for smogging purposes. It's well known that an airpump on the shelf, or not turning will freeze up and be useless. |
wow I cant believe none of you know the air pump supplies secondary air injection at idle and low rpms. Thats why it runs like shit when you just unplug it without an ECU to tune out the extra fuel at idle. If you unplug your airpump you will have to jack up the idle and plan on changing out your fouled plugs every day.
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wow I cant believe none of you know the air pump supplies secondary air injection at idle and low rpms. Thats why it runs like shit when you just unplug it without an ECU to tune out the extra fuel at idle. If you unplug your airpump you will have to jack up the idle and plan on changing out your fouled plugs every day. Fouled plugs?...not likely from just removing the airpump. You may have to raise the idle, your plugs will be fine...at least they were in my case. |
Originally posted by evot23 The idle isnt that bad when you unplug it and it isn't bad for everyone (was for me but not for my friend)...and yes, I believe most of us do know that...the secondary air injection at idle is what helps you with the emissions. At higher RPM you get enough flow to get rid of/burn hydrocarbons. Fouled plugs?...not likely from just removing the airpump. You may have to raise the idle, your plugs will be fine...at least they were in my case. |
Zoom Zoom, that is why I suggested tuning the idle air mixture screw...
AF908. I think you turn it counter CW. (can't really remember) There is no need to worry about blowing your ingine as this screw only effects the idle air mixture & running lean at idle will just cause the car to run like crap & stall. |
Idle air screw will not fix this. The mixture is just too rich at idle without the air pump. Leave the air pump on until you get a PFC or something like ZoomZoom said.
-MP |
Originally posted by es Zoom Zoom, that is why I suggested tuning the idle air mixture screw... AF908. I think you turn it counter CW. (can't really remember) There is no need to worry about blowing your ingine as this screw only effects the idle air mixture & running lean at idle will just cause the car to run like crap & stall. |
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