Pressure test was not done, but I just hate to see 10min of white smoke out of my exhaust worring my ass off if its the o-ring or what not. (I did that for passed 1 year with my old motor) I'll take Fritz advice...since it is possible to have a reman motor with bad o-ring.... :) Here goes another $800 out of my pocket.

thanks for your inputs guys! :bigthumb:

Last bit of advice... get the motor from Mazda, and have a shop tear it down, inspect it, and build it right. You'll probably pay a bit more, but be happier in the end. Just my $0.02...

I'm on my reman 20k miles with no problems so far *knock on wood*

Um, dude. Before you go blow a grand, perhaps you should have the system pressure tested, and at the least put on a different set of rad/ast caps. Unless you are independently wealthy, makes sense to me. Motor R&Rs aren't exactly like swapping out a catback or something.

teflon o-rings = mandatory upgrade

got them installed when I had my reman ported....thank you Chris Rogers

Just drive it hard let it sit over night and then check the plugs. If they have water on them then send it back.

I think EJMACK also got a bad reman engine.

It should not be steaming for 10 mins when you start it.

I've had another engine that first started steaming a bit then start running on one rotor and finally not starting without fooling with the plugs. While all this is going on the overflow tank will boil over etc.....

A pressure test is a good idea for sure but sometimes the test fails because you have a leak somewhere else. If it's really bad you should see the champagne bubbles once the car warms up and the thermostat opens. I think the stock thermo opens around 83c or so.

Good luck

This has been mentioned, but not explicitly explained:

The fill cap on the engine has only a seal to the atmosphere. It lets coolant flow freely to and from the AST. The AST cap is a pressure-relief unit that vents to the overflow tank at 0.9 bar (if the coolant recall was performed).

Make sure you have the correct caps in the correct location. If the caps are reversed or faulty, you could lose coolant. Of course, that does not account for excessive steam at start-up.

Caps are both new. I supose there must be something more than coolant systems due to 10min. of white steam during warm up. I did the Champagne bubbles test and there was no bubbles, and plug was dry. But, all these symtom that I get now is almost exactly what I've had before with old motor. After driving 1 yr with those symtoms, the motor started to hasiate when i crank and so on...

I just want to replace the motor now, before its too late (warranty). I know the motor with shot o-ring can last for pretty long time from my experience...

Not tring to be a rehatch bad memories, but could it be possible, you
got PFS'd????

Shop took the new reman, used it on something else,
and rebuilt/fixed your original motor.

Teflon o rings eh?? Duuuh. Damn should of coulda woulda..

^lol, no. I used to live 30sec. away from his shop so I'm really cool with the manager there.

Oh, I noticed one more thing thats wierd about the maz reman. I opened the oil cap and "OMG" theres whole bunch of that white stuff building up from the cap to all way down the pipe. Little is nomal, but its enough to make you remind of the time when you fingered your ex-gf while she had a yeast infection... :rlaugh: ...maybe thats just me.

opps