liquid boiling sound
 

hey guys I am not really familiar with 3 gens. I just got my first 3 gen about 3 weeks ago. I haven't drive it for 2 weeks, when I started the car today I smell something buring. there's smoke coming from the front under the panels for 3 sec and went away. So I drive it really gentle and for about 10 miles. After I let it idle for 3 min I turned off the car and heard some kind of liquid boiling or moving noise. Some "click click" sound too. If you know what might cause this please let me know because the car still has warranty for another week.

Did you leave the key in the "on" position? If so, your fuel pump was running, so fuel was being pumped to the fuel rails and that makes a sound in my car. Take off the radiator fill cap, and make sure there's coolant/water in there.

um..no I think I pulled the key out and hear it after turning it off.

Boiling sound usually means air in the cooling system, needs to be burped. Depending on how hot it was it could have been the fan relays clicking (fans should have also been on) if this was the case. Hard to say on the clicking for sure, but deffinately air in your cooling system.

Do you have a stock AST? Also, check the overflow tank. Mine had a small crack and resulted in symptoms similar to what you describe. Took forever to find, but then, I had no decent rotary mechanic in my area.

I would think that if his recovery tank had a crack in it then it wouldn't be staying full to the point that it comes out of the little hole in the top. And if it did have a crack in the recovery tank then it must be pretty close to the top that it would have any affect on his level in the recovery tank. Fix the air in the system problem, get the recovery tank to the proper level and determine if the cooling system is functioning properly. I>E> rises to the correct level when hot and drops to the correct level when cold (recovery tank level). Once the air is out, and the levels stay constant in the filler neck and AST the recovery tank level acts as described then you will know the system is intact and working correctly. You may find yourself replacing caps, pressure testing the system and doing what ever else is necessary to accomplish this simple task.

simple^^?

thanks guys. The car is bone stock. However I am wondering is it okay if I drive it gentle back for them to fix it, or I need a tow?

I doubt you need a tow. I'd try driving it back on your own power.

The bubbling / boiling sound is nothing to worry about. This often happens after a 3rd Gen has had a good hard run. Same for the click, click. It's just the engine cooling down. All normal.

It's possible there's some minor amount of air in the coolant. Again, happens often and easy to fix. Simply remove the cap on the filler neck.......that's the cap with the yellow label pretty much in the center of the engine bay. Look down the filler neck. If the coolant isn't above that little hole you see then add antifreeze or distilled water until the level rises above it.

The burning smell is the only thing that concerns me. Again, it could be minor. But I'd want to find out what's causing it. My guess is some kind of fluid spill and it's probably not a major problem, but see what you can find out.

New owners often go through these panic / concern periods in the early part of their ownership as they get used to the car. After a while, you'll find what's normal and what's not and you'll relax and enjoy the car more.

Mine makes the same sound after shuting down. Have checked cooling system throughout and have had no coolant loss or cooling problems. It's just a sound the car makes. It's not the most pleasant sound, and not common to other cars, but I have found nothing wrong as a result of it.

Thanks guys. You guys are really helpful.

I assume the boiling sound happens after you shut off the car. This is not normal but is a common problem.

Your coolant boils at a lower temperature if it can't maintain 13lbs of pressure. What happens when you shut the car off is the coolant stops circulating. The localized coolant surrounding the engine starts to heat up. As long as there's 13lbs pressure it won't boil. But if your rad caps are faulty then you won't have that pressure. This does not mean your engine overheated.

Replace your rad cap. Also replace the one on the AST with a 16lb cap.

Click click sound is just the exhaust parts cooling off.

Smoke coming from panels? What panels?

on a cold start remove the rad cap see if the water levels down, if not sypen about 3 inch of water out the neck, start the car up the water will slowly push up to the neck and watch for tiny little bubble coming up in a stream giving a like a head on a beer, thats signs of a oring failure.

or easyest way is to do a compression test and test RAD and AST caps check all coolant hoses for pin holes.

to burp either remove the coolant hose that goes to the throtal body /remove the RAD cap but leave the AST cap on, top water up in rad neck put your palm on the rad neck to seal and squeze upper RAD hose once and top water up and again and again till water comes out the hose to the throtal body as it the highest part of the engine to remove most of the air.

best way and the one i use is a radiator burping kit which attaches to the radiator neck and you run the engine till the termostat opens and watch all the air come up once the cooling system is fully open.

is the boiling comming from the coolant res tank? are there any signs smoke on start up, coolant alarm? - previous owner could of used block weld solution on the engine and taken the fuse out for the coolant alarm check these to be safe. next time before you start up check your coolant levels then drive then wait till it cools down remove RAD cap and see if the levels moved

hope it its nothing major mate - if it is go back to the guy that sold you it and beat the shit out him

The coolant light turns on when I start the car. I am not sure where the smoke is coming from, it's not really smoke actually, it's something like fog I see on the passenger seat under sun light. That only happened once after the car started up again after sitting there for 2 weeks. yea I hope it's not something bad, too. But up til now it's a pleasure to drive this car.

also if I don't worm up the car before pushing it a little, I get a bit of coolant leak. Is this normal? After the car worms up everything goes fine.

I have this boiling sound, but it sounds like its coming form under the UIM??
And the smoke at start up: its only if you let it sit for more the a few days?? well mine also does this, it looks like its coming form the passenger side so it could be the turbos thats were it looks it coming form on my car. I also think its time for a newer set they have 150k on them.. still new to the 7 world so dont really know

anyways how many miles are on the car??

my car is 93 and it has 57k on it right now..I hope it's not the turbo thats dying.They still push normal tho..

Do the "champagne bubble test"(search) if you see bubbles....Take it back now if it is under warranty! You may have bad coolant seals=you may rebuild=$5000. Ask me how I know...

Does the coolant alarm sound? If your coolant is continually low that is another problem. Cooling system problems are common because these things run so damn hot and don't come from the factory with really enough cooling gizmos. Be sure to check the sticky at the top of the forum list to review all recommended upgrades to cooling system. When I first got my FD it has a real problematic coolant leak in a hard to reach spot under the turbos. I got it in the winter so it was real noticeable when the steam would rise from the hood cracks when stopped at a light. I recommend you get a complete cooling system check and once all the leaks are fixed, upgrade the radiator and AST. I also highly recommend a special coolant called Evan NPG+. This stuff just plain won't boil evan at 0 pressure. You will then be able to replace your standard pressure cap on AST to a much lower pressure cap, say 7 LBS. Less pressure means less chance of leaks in the future. Do a search on Evans Cooling if you are interested in this upgrade or PM me and I'll give you the info.

Oh and yes you could have the dreaded coolant seal (o-ring) problem. If so, time for $5000 rebuild. Ouch. Sometimes they fail very slowly over several years.

The coolant system does sound sometimes. does that mean the o-ring is done?5000 wow o.o..

I took the car back to warrant...there's a host leak and they got it fixed. but then I've got a exhaust manifold leak..not bad but make noise. The machanic they have has never worked on a rotary. He said he has to take out the engine and turbo to reach the exhaust manifold. Guys is this true?lemme know. Thanks.