Well, only de-soldered the resistor and tested it; flashers work as they did before LED swap. I can't drive the car ATM, but surely Mazda wouldn't put the function and performance of the entire car solely on one resistor, so I'm going to assume everything is fine without installing the new one.
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Thanks to Dale Clark for fixing my CPU #2 unit. :)
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Originally Posted by David Hayes
(Post 11989616)
Thanks to Dale Clark for fixing my CPU #2 unit. :)
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Did the mod and it didn't work. Redid it and still no go so sent it to Dale. He redid the mod and still no go. Brushed off the board and then resoldered several suspect joints. That did the trick. :)
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Nice
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Thanks Dale for this writeup! This works great.
I never messed with circuit board components before but it really wasn't too bad. I felt inspired to try and fix my hazard lights at the same time since they never worked. Narrowed it down to the circuit board itself, right behind the hazard button/ heater controls. Replaced that particular pathway with a wire since it had no resistors or caps inline, and good to go! |
Just tried both cutting the R1 resistor and replacing with a 1M ohm resistor. I am still getting hyper flashing. Does anybody have any suggestions?
I am using these LEDs: iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Turn Signal Lights,Amber Yellow |
^Try simply removing the R1 resistor, then test for hyper-blinking. If your LED turn signals work normally at that point, consider leaving your newly snipped R1 resistor as-is; I.e., no replacement.
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Turns out I had my tail light harnesses swapped. Apparently, the wiring is different and will make things go crazy if you mix them up. Everything is good to go now.
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Somewhat related:
Are there any LEDs that can match regular bulbs light spread? I ahve yet to see a LED that give a 100% uniform light output. And with my level of OCD thats important :D |
They are out there, you have to do some digging and research. LED bulbs are changing VERY fast so what is good today won't be available tomorrow or will be eclipsed.
There are some threads on bulb recommendations and bulb "styles". The super cheap Ebay bulbs are gonna let you down. Also, you need colored bulbs for the turn signals, brake lights, etc. - if you put a white bulb in the light output will be crap behind a red lens. Dale |
Well, since Dale has done his usual excellent write-up I guess I'll have to follow in his footsteps. Again. :)
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Was just wondering if this works on the FC's cpu as well?
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Quite possibly, the CPU in the FC is similar and I can't see them doing a huge redesign of the flasher module. It would be worth a try.
Dale |
Thanks Dale:
I will have to take a look at it. |
Dale, this was awesome.
I can confirm that just removing the R1 resistor fixes the fast signal. I just completed this on my car and it resolved my fast signal problem with no other side effects. |
Originally Posted by 88SE_HI
(Post 12288639)
Was just wondering if this works on the FC's cpu as well?
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 12288688)
Quite possibly, the CPU in the FC is similar and I can't see them doing a huge redesign of the flasher module. It would be worth a try.
Dale |
Ok, so I took out the CPU/flasher unit from my S5 FC to take a peek. Comparing my pictures (see below) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...008b4b6e77.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...619c30f1b0.jpg with Dale's pictures in the 1st post, it would appear that these circuit boards are laid out the same. So, I'm feeling adventurous - First I'll de-solder the R1 resistor and leave it vacant. If that solves the hyper-flash LED turn signals, I'm done. Otherwise, next thing I'll try is soldering a 1M ohm resistor in R1's place |
^Update - It works on an FC! Caveat - at least it works on an S5, you S4 guys will have to do some experimenting. All I did was desolder one of the R1 leads from the circuit board, tested it out and found that the flashers/turn signals flash at the same normal rate as before. No other ill effects from the change. Since I left R1 resistor on the board with just 1 of its leads soldered, I put some heat shrink over R1 to insulate the loose lead, put the flasher unit back inside the CPU and reinstalled it in my FC. BTW, I replaced every 1157, 1156 & 194 type exterior bulb with their LED equivalent, so there's no mixing with regular bulbs that might cause a false positive result here.
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Hi Pete!
I remember that the flasher unit on the S4's seemed to be the same. I bet it would work just fine on an S4 as well. It's not a fancy or complicated circuit, I think Mazda designed it back in the day and just kept using it. Dale |
OK I need some help... my flasher cpu is a little different and I'm not sure that the R1 is the correct resistance... anyone can help?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...44e211a264.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a3f5bd1057.jpg |
^There's more than one circuit board in that black CPU/flasher box - it appears that you're looking for the resistor on the wrong circuit board. The circuit board you're looking for should look a lot like the one my pictures in post #68.
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1 Attachment(s)
I'm an idiot... found it fixed... thanks a lot!!!
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I made a stupid mistake, and because I was pushed for time didn't refer back to the guides online, so I actually removed the R1 resistor on the board shown in the pic above, not the smaller flasher unit 🤦🏻♂️
So, can anyone confirm the spec of the R1 resistor on the main board, or the colour bands, as I need to replace it. Just to be clear, it's the one circled in the pic below: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cc0d697cac.jpg Any help would be very much appreciated, to save me from my stupidity!! |
Resistors don't have polarity so they can be installed either way.
If you still have the one you removed, look at the color bands on it and look up a resistor color band guide, that will tell you the resistance. Also I don't know if there is an electronics shop, stereo/TV repair place, etc. somewhere near you. You may be able to go show them the part and they may have one on hand to sell you for cheap. Those resistors typically are like a penny each, it would cost more in shipping to just get one. Dale |
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