Issue with pulling trouble codes
 

Right now i have an FD thats having some problems, with no engine light on. So I tried to see if I could pull some codes today but ended up having the engine light stay on steady when key in the ON position.

Really need some help with this, tried searching but only to come up with dead links and no answers

Any help would be great,
Thanks

to check the engines codes go to the diagnostic box that sists in the engine bay and bridge ten and gnd together.


follow these instructions:
www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

yeah i followed all the instructions, i jumped ten and gnd together, turned the key to ON position only to have the engine light come on and never go off until i started the car. I read somewhere if this happens you have a bad connection between TEN -> GND, so i wiggled it around, and then changed ground locations several times but still ended up having the same problem

Sure sounds like a bad TEN ("Test ENable") to GND connection. On our '94, in the Diagnostic Connector there are two "GND" terminals. The one in the center of the far row is easily accessed, but the one in the nearer row (to the far right) is deeply recessed. It does connect to chassis ground like the other, but it might be harder to make contact with it. What are you using for a jumper? Have you checked resistance with an ohmmeter from the jumper to a chassis ground point, when the jumper is plugged in?

FWIW, the few times I've seen this it's been an issue (short or damaged wires) with the emissions harness. A new harness cleared it right up (as well as addressing the owner's original problem requiring to look for codes).

Im using a paper clip as a jumper and yea i just checked resistance 0.6 ohm key OFF and not sure if this makes sense but my multimeter showed 74.0 ohm key ON. I checked resistance with the paper clip jumped between TEN & GND ( positive lead attached to paper clip) and then negative lead attached to a body ground. Not sure if thats how i was suppose to do it

Your "key OFF" test setup was correct. I don't know what the key "ON" 74 ohms meant, since you shouldn't measure resistance with current flowing other than what is supplied inside the multimeter from its battery. More significant with key "ON" would be to look for a small voltage on the jumper wire, which should be at zero volts (if you have a good ground connection from the paper clip to chassis).

alright i checked the voltage at the jumper wire with the key in the ON position, I got 0.014 volts and that was using a body ground