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-   -   Internal oil leak help (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/internal-oil-leak-help-121194/)

Jaysmuuv 10-06-02 07:33 PM

Internal oil leak help
 
Hello everyone,

I am a recent addition to the rx-7 world. I just bought a 93 touring from a man who never drove this thing. i had to drive it 400+ miles to get it home. When i got it home i noticed that it had a oil leak that was not there on any of my stops along the way. I determined that my oil pan gasket is leaking and i have to replace it... not big deal. However , it is also idleling horrible now and i found oil all the way from the inlet of my primary turbo fan to my intake manifold. I think this could be from my turbos, I am going to take it apart and find out on monday, but I have one question. What is the line that runs from my crankcase line near my pcv to my turbo for. No one has been able to give me a very good answer on this so i thought i would ask my fellow owners for some much needed advise and wisdom.

thanks in advance,

J.D.

Jaysmuuv 10-06-02 07:35 PM

ohh yeah
 
ohh yeah.. also it has an excessive ammount of black smoke comming from exhaust. Believed due to the fact that it's burning oil... im still working on it...

P'cola FD 10-06-02 07:41 PM

The line running from the crankcase to the turbo inlet is for the PCV. The turbo always has a vacuum in front of the compressor wheel, and the crankcase vents to that position when the car is under acceleration.
The poor idle and black smoke are possibly related to the MAP sensor. When you accelerate hard, does the car sputter and jerk? If so, then I would check the vacuum hose going to the MAP sensor.
The oil pan gaskets were never really good, so most people just use RTV for the gasket. I would make sure that the oil pan is the source of your oil leak before I did the job, though. It isn't a 20 minute job, as you have to remove the subframe.

Jaysmuuv 10-06-02 08:00 PM

sputter and jerk
 
yes it does sputter and jerk on acceleration. I think i am going to order a set of silicon vacuum hoses from hosetechniques.com they make a comeplete set for my car. Also there is an excessive ammount of oil on the under side of the driver side under the engine. I think that was due to a leaking throttle body o-ring from when the oil was being pushed into the engine and it was leaking. the o-ring was in horrible shape so i replaced it. we'll see.

P'cola FD 10-06-02 08:05 PM

First thing you need to do is fix the MAP sensor. It is a little black box on the firewall, behind the throttle body. It says boost sensor on it. Make sure that the vacuum hose is connected, and not slpit or cut, and make sure the electrical connector is plugged up. Then, reset your ecu by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and pressing in the brake pedal for 20 seconds. That will at least get your car running right.

Jaysmuuv 10-06-02 09:10 PM

map sensor
 
k. ill do that. also do you have any input on this whole pcv line thing? should i bypass the pcv somehow. I have heard of others doing several types of things. is there any advantage to this? Could this be the source of the issue and possibly not the turbos? Also . Ive heard that a boost gage is a must. Are there any other gauges i should be thinking of while im at it? Im still new to the rx world, but i am gaining knowledge as i go.

P'cola FD 10-06-02 09:32 PM

The PCV line going to the turbo should stay. The line people remove is the big one with the valve on the front of the UIM. The only way that there would be that much oil going through that hose, is if the car was overfilled, or if the car had seen a lot of tight left handers on a course.
I use a boost gauge and a water temperature gauge right now. Eventually I'll get EGT, oil pressure, and oil temp. gauges, but they aren't as important, starting off, as the boost and water temp.

Jaysmuuv 10-06-02 09:34 PM

k. I'll see if i can pick one up tomorrow and get some numbers for you guys. What am i looking for in terms of numbers on this boost gage????

P'cola FD 10-06-02 09:40 PM

The proper pattern in 3rd gear is 10-8-10. That is 10 psi from 3,000 till 4,500. A dip to 8psi at 4,500 which should shoot right back up to 10 psi till redline. Some older stock cars tend to back off to about 8-9 psi towards redline, though.

spoolage 10-16-02 10:09 PM

Hey!

This post really helped my ass... I was looking for loose hoses and vacume hoses all night and couldent find shit. I came to this forum, read and found the little hose disconnected from the Boostgauge.

Problem #2.

While I was looking at hoses and being my self, I managed to crack a little black peice of plastic off this little green deveice that is located just to the front left of the trottle body.... It makes a little "wee" sound if I suck on it. My boost seems do die out now that its not connected to the other part of the hose..... Any idea what the hell this thing is??!? Im in the process of my 5th attempt of super glueing the plastic part back to the green part and reconnecting the hoses.

P'cola FD 10-16-02 10:16 PM

Sounds like a check valve. You can get a generic replacement at most auto parts stores in the "HELP" section. Make sure to install it with the arrow either pointing to the intake manifold, or to the pressure chamber.

Jaysmuuv 10-17-02 08:32 AM

Yeah sounds like one of those checks. The problem i have had with the generic ones is that they need 3mm hose instead of the stock size, so if you get a generic one.... make sure you tiewrap or hose clamp it or it may just pop off on boost.... Sounds like you need a workshop manual too. A mazda dealer near you should be able to get you one. I havent been able to find a haynes or chilton for third gens.... good luck


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