Intake manifold is off. What else should I check while I am in there?
 

Well the IM is off due to checking for a bad solenoid that I thought was wrong. I haven't checked the solenoid yet but that is very close to happening. While I have the IM off is there anything else you guys recommend me checking before I put it back on? Also the IM gasket is a metal one. Did they come with metal gaskets from the factory or has this been changed. I know when I changed the TB gasket it was a paper one from the factory but the new one was a metal one. Having a metal IM gasket already, do I need to change it out anyway when I reinstall the IM?

You're talking about the upper intake manifold I think. Yes, the stock gasket is metal. Spray some carb cleaner into the runners. If you are intake air sensor is bad and you have an ECU code, replace it. Replace as much hoses under there.

Yeah, upper intake manifold. I had no codes when I took it off. I was planning on doing some cleaning on the manifold and throttle body before installation. Anything else? Should I use the gasket that it had?

I recently took of the upper intake manifold off too. I changed the vacuum hoses, the spark plugs, the spark wires, and the oil filter.

I suggest you get a new gasket for the UIM, but you can also reuse the old one.

oh i just realized that you are checking for a bad solenoid. good luck! and remember be extremely careful with the solenoid nipples. to get the vacuum hoses off of the solenoid valves i suggest that take off the entire solenoid rack out of the car and take it with you to a table where you could be sitting down while doing the work. if you dont take take the rack out, i think its extremely difficult to pull the solenoids out without breaking them.

words of precaution: 1. Dont mess with the Throttle position sensor (TPS) on the TB. I did that and am regretting big time.

2. If you decide to replace the vacuum hoses, remember that the first time you do it, it will take a very long time. and you have to be extremely careful with all the solenoid because their nipples need to break very easily. there are some good vacuum hoses how-tos on the web. one of them has excellent pics aswell.

3. same with spark wires (this is not important, people say that spark wires will last 100,000 miles). eventough my car has 60,000 on it, i still upgraded to the silicone ones.

Check your fuel PULSATION DAMPER it is a good idea to replace it as a preventative measure if it is the orig. one, or if it shows any sign of leakage.

What happened to your tps sensor. I've messed with it before and was worried about how it would work, because it's the not so obvious way to hook it up is how it works. Strange device.

But it's worked fine.

Well the solenoid I am checking is the turbo control solenoid on the very top so it isn't that difficult to get to. What about the fuel pulsation damper? How will I know if it is going bad? Also my manifold gasket is pretty tightly seized to the engine. When I reinstall this thing, do you guys see any harm in just putting the manifold back on without touching the gasket?

hey twinturboteddy,
which wing is on the cym on your sig?
thanks

twinturboteddy: well, when i was taking the TB out, i couldnt disconnect the tps wiring harness. so what i did is that i took off the two adjustment screws, and took the top portion of the tps unit.

what the tps does is (and this is what i think), it tells the ecu how much fuel should be supplied to the engine depending on the position of the throttle. so, at closed throttle supply less, and at full throttle supply more. the tps is connected to the ecu by two wires. at closed throttle, the voltage between the two wires is low, and at full throttle the voltage is high (the voltage ranges from around .5 volts to 5 volts-approx).

i can say this because two days ago, i wasnt paying much attention when i hooked up my tps. the tps was set at around 5 volts for all throtle positions. i took the car out for a test run, and the car flooded (in addition i could also smell unburnt fuel all the time). this probably happened because too much fuel was being supplied at low throttles and not enough air was present to burn it. then yesterday, i took out the tps, put it back on and adjusted it, but i noticed that at full throttle my tps was only sending out around 3 volts to the ecu). i take my car out for a test run again, and this time when i step on the gas hard and the turbos kick in, i feel this hard jerk, as if not enough gas is being supplied to the engine.

i still have to fix it. wish me luck.

-bilal

jonboy,

when i was checking my solenoids i accidently broke the nipples on the turboprecontrol solenoid (the one your talking about). the vacuum hoses on the two nipples are just way too small to pull out.

when you take it out, i suggest that you cut the two vacuum hoses in the middle. then take the nut out that holds the solenoid in position. then you can easily take it out. one thing is noticed is that the solenoid uses a small part produced by mistsubishi (you will see the logo on a small black part attached to it- its kinda interesting).

just be careful jonboy, because if you accidently break this solenoid, it will cost you around 55 dollars to get a new one.

Well this solenoid is not the precontrol, it is the turbo control (vacuum side). Thanks for the caution but I already took the solenoid out. I didn't break the nipples and got the hoses off ok but they were very hard and brittle. If this is the bad solenoid like I am suspecting then I am going to have to replace it anyway. I have already been looking for someone that would have one that I coule get without buying a new one but no luck yet. I saw the little cover thing made by Mitsubishi, i was like, "what the f___" . It covers what looks to be maybe the rod actuator for the valve.

morning bump

Yeah, just use the same gasket. I don't think u can check the fuel pulsation damper with just the UIM off. You need to get the LIM off to get to the injectors and fuel damper I believe. To find out more about the damper, just do a search. If you car doesn't smell rich or you dont have a fuel leak, you are probably okay.

I don't believe I have any fuel issues. I don't have any fuel smells or leaks and the backfiring is not that excessive. Your saying spray some carb cleaner in the runners. That it?

As long as your not smelling fuel its ok. You can check the Pulsation Dampener if just the UIM is off. You have to know what to look for and you can only see a portion of it. If you remove the ACV or solenoid rack you will get a better view.

Doesn't sound like your damper is a problem so don't worry about it. Just spray the carb cleaner in the runner to make the idle smoother.

I should probably do the same with the throttle body, don't you think?