Installing newer twins tonight, few Q's.
 

wooo, ok so I'm about halfway through this nightmare. Two nuts left and the old twins are out. I have two questions about re-installation.

My first question is, I don't have the gasket from the front turbo oil drain tube, can i just RTV the old gaskets and re-use it or should i order a new one and wait even longer?

Second question, ALL my turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe nuts seized to the studs and pulled the studs out with them the threads look ok can i just re install the seized stud/nut combo or should i shell out the rediculous $14 per stud, i'm guessing the nuts aren't cheap either . . .

yay picture time . . .
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...S/100_0619.jpg
green masking tape is for vac line labeling, better safe than screwed.:icon_tup:

The stud normally seizes to the nut. If you put it back in the same location it may work out ok, but I'm assuming you're not sure which goes back where. Another approach is to find a small washer that fits under the head of each bolt to ensure they don't bottom out in the new location.

There are aftermarket studs and nuts which work well for a lot less money. IIRC Pineapple Racing and ATP Turbo have these in our size. Mazda is the best, being made of inconel alloy, but the cost is approaching $20/stud-nut and they'll probably seize again next time. Use copper anti-seize now.

I would get a new gasket for the oil return. Oil leaks are no fun and once they start it can be really hard to pin down the source on that part of the engine.

Dave

thanks dave

most local auto parts stores should be able to supply u with studs for about 2 bucks each, they should have nuts that work also, i ordered nuts from mazda & used 2 buck studs, worked good, i would run a tap thru all your stud holes when it's all apart just to insure no problems half way thru job. are these newer twins with restrictors built into fittings? if so it's easier to drill these out on the bench & install boost controller now. imo

i have a AVC-R for a boost controller . . .

Then you'll want to drill them out.

Here is a big tip, make sure to check that all the oil and coolant feed/drain lines are tightened properly on the newer set of twins. Learned my lesson the hard way on that one. Nothing like thinking the install is over to have to remove half the stuff to get to a coolant feed line :)

Personally I would make sure that you replace all the copper washers on the oil feed/return and coolant feed/return lines.

As for the gasket, make sure you get the Mazda gaskets. When it comes to most of these things, Mazda will be the best way to make sure you don't suffer a huge headache later.

Another tip for getting the seized nut off of the stud is to use the double-up method. But, as Dave suggested, you can use the stud/nut combo again and it will bolt right up.

yeh get some new gaskets. gasket goo just doesn't cut it. i have the oil patch on my garge floor to prove it :D :(

I don't like to re-use any gaskets. However if you must, the oil return line gaskets will usually be ok if the thin black coating is still intact. If there is silver metal or rust showing, replace them. If you re-use any, coat them with a thin film of silicone rtv. Same goes for the y-pipe gaskets. If you have the older paper style, they cannot be re-used. I don't like to re-use any of the stock studs or nuts. While some people think inconel is best, I hate it. When they become old and you attempt to remove them, the metal splinters. The fragments dig into the surrounding metal, making them nearly impossible to remove without breaking. You can try heating with a torch until they glow red, attempt a turn, then re-heating if they bind again, and so forth. The replacements David suggested work well. I normally stock some similar ones that I found work best. Another approach if you cannot get a stud out is to run a die over it to make sure a new nut will thread on. Also, make sure you replace the turbo coolant hoses with new oem parts. Good luck.