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-   -   installing A/C......? (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/installing-c-663031/)

r1rx7girl 06-17-07 10:30 AM

installing A/C......?
 
I currently have no a/c, I bought the car w/o it. How difficult would it be to re-install the a/c system back into my car? also I still have the compressor but I have almost no lines left, where would I get these... mazda? is there anyone other than mazda that may have them, I am sure this process is going to be expensive enough and a big enough pain, just a few q's before I get myself into something ridiculous! I dont drive it daily but still... It is HOT in FL!!

FourtyOunce 06-17-07 10:40 AM

There have been a few forum members selling full AC systems pulled from their cars in the classified section. Just keep in mind what year and model your car is.

Busted7 06-17-07 10:47 AM

A friend has a complete ac setup for a 95. Let me know and i will put you in touch.:icon_tup:

MADDSLOW 06-17-07 10:53 AM

I just took the whole a/c off of my car. Willing to sell the parts for very cheap. Just circle what you need if you're interested.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=662201

r1rx7girl 06-17-07 10:55 AM

pm me a link or his e-mail, how much of a difference is there in the '93 '94 or '95 a/c set-up? I have a '93

Matt Hey 06-17-07 11:16 AM

Yep, Buying used from someone who yanked the whole A/C is going to be the most economical. I believe R1 and Base 7's use Yamana A/C systems and Touring uses Nippondenso so choose the correct donor for your car. It would be advisable to replace all A/C O-rings with newer R134A compatible types while it's out. You should also buy a new dryer which is basically a filter for the A/C and newer ones should be R134A compatible (mine for base system said it was). I bought from Malloy Mazda and I believe it was still around $100 a couple of years ago. There is going to be a pretty fair amount of wrenching work and figuring out where everything goes. It's doable but expect costs to do it right to be $500-$1000. Good Luck.

Matt Hey 06-17-07 11:23 AM


Originally Posted by r1rx7girl (Post 7050855)
pm me a link or his e-mail, how much of a difference is there in the '93 '94 or '95 a/c set-up? I have a '93

I believe the '95 is already R134A compatible. I think it has a bigger condensor (A/C radiator in front of radiator) to compensate for the R134A being less efficient. This means your A/C is colder with R134A. Some of the little brackets and such may be a little different but going with '95 A/C setup sounds like a good idea to me.

CantGoStraight 06-18-07 06:41 AM


Originally Posted by r1rx7girl (Post 7050799)
I currently have no a/c, I bought the car w/o it. How difficult would it be to re-install the a/c system back into my car? also I still have the compressor but I have almost no lines left, where would I get these... mazda? is there anyone other than mazda that may have them, I am sure this process is going to be expensive enough and a big enough pain, just a few q's before I get myself into something ridiculous! I dont drive it daily but still... It is HOT in FL!!

LOL....I told Eddie not to take that stuff off. Look in the parts FS/Wanted as allot of people remove there AC. The only thing you should replace with new is the dryer and most likely the compressor (if it wasn't sealed to keep moisture out)

Super77 06-18-07 07:01 AM


Originally Posted by Matt Hey (Post 7050899)
Yep, Buying used from someone who yanked the whole A/C is going to be the most economical. I believe R1 and Base 7's use Yamana A/C systems and Touring uses Nippondenso so choose the correct donor for your car. It would be advisable to replace all A/C O-rings with newer R134A compatible types while it's out. You should also buy a new dryer which is basically a filter for the A/C and newer ones should be R134A compatible (mine for base system said it was). I bought from Malloy Mazda and I believe it was still around $100 a couple of years ago. There is going to be a pretty fair amount of wrenching work and figuring out where everything goes. It's doable but expect costs to do it right to be $500-$1000. Good Luck.

The R1/base models use a different compressor than the touring model and the compessors ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE!! So be careful when you buy. The compessor for the wife's R1 sold for about $300 new and the comperssor for my touring model sold for about $600 new!!

Good luck.

Super77

M104-AMG 06-18-07 08:35 AM

Be sure to give it a long vaccuum (an hour or two) at about 25-30 inches to boil-off any moisture in the system before doing a charge.

FWIW, I would also do a full system flush . . .

:-) neil

hanman 06-18-07 09:16 AM

Things to do:
Replace ALL orings. Replace the drier, and the expansion valve (behind the glove box). If you trust the used compressor then install it. I bought a rebuilt for less than $400.
Once you have done all the mechanical work, take it to a shop that does a/c work. They will pull a vacuum on it, and hopefully you will have no leaks. I strongly suggest you put R12 back in it, but it's up to you. The R12 will cool better than 134, and as underpowered as these a/c units are, you need the extra cooling. Just my opinion though.

M104-AMG 06-18-07 09:21 AM


Originally Posted by hanman (Post 7053555)
Things to do:
Replace ALL orings. Replace the drier, and the expansion valve (behind the glove box). If you trust the used compressor then install it. I bought a rebuilt for less than $400.
Once you have done all the mechanical work, take it to a shop that does a/c work. They will pull a vacuum on it, and hopefully you will have no leaks. I strongly suggest you put R12 back in it, but it's up to you. The R12 will cool better than 134, and as underpowered as these a/c units are, you need the extra cooling. Just my opinion though.

+1, esp. on using R12.

If you switch refridgerants, be sure to flush and use the proper oil (and it's amount) and O-rings.

My friend's machine can even measure how much oil was in the system previously.

I always have U/V dye added, just in case.

They dye don't lie . . .

:-) neil

hanman 06-18-07 11:42 AM

Yea, I think the dye is cheap insurance. If it does leak, at least you can find it.
That is the main problem with R12. If it leaks it is going to be expensive.

I replaced the compressor, expansion valve, drier, orings, and had the shop do the rest. It cost me right at $1k.

dgeesaman 06-18-07 11:45 AM

I thought that the R-134 systems (some 94s and all 95s) were upsized to work with R-134?

In that case, I would *prefer* the 95 complete setup since you can get the R-134 a whole lot easier/cheaper than R-12.

Dave

r1rx7girl 06-18-07 12:27 PM

ok, so I was going throuh some things in the garage, I found the compressor, some lines and the evaporator, it looks like I am going to have to find another location to mount the evaporator because the intercooler is in the way of the original location. I see that several people mentioned changing the rings in the compressor before re-using it, since I am so unfimiliar with the AC, I will most likely take it to a shop that specializes in AC and have them look over all the components to assure they are in working order and hopefully they can replace the rings and flush the system while it is there.
I appreciate all the helpful information you all have given me! thanks a bunch!! any more info is greatly appreciated as well!

r1rx7girl 06-18-07 12:29 PM

also, where did the condensor mount in the FD?

dubulup 06-18-07 12:39 PM

I just reinstalled my A/C in my 95...

found a new condenser through some autoparts warehouse.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...p/DSC09903.jpg
had custom flexible lines made.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...p/DSC00321.jpg
and bought all new o-rings from Ray Crowe...$57 if I remember correctly

ptrhahn 06-18-07 12:52 PM

r1rx7girl:

PM Fritz Flynn, he's probably got all of the stuff you'd need. If you've got a shop manual, it should show you what you're missing.

I just removed my system, and each of the junctions have little o-rings to seal, so you'll want to be sure you've got 'em to have a sound system. The little stuff like that Ray Crowe at Malloy should have, if Fritz doesn't.

MADDSLOW 06-18-07 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by r1rx7girl (Post 7054103)
also, where did the condensor mount in the FD?

The condensor mounted in front of the radiator.

ehos 06-18-07 09:47 PM


Originally Posted by MADDSLOW (Post 7055030)
The condensor mounted in front of the radiator.

No wonder stock FD's overheat. Put something that blocks almost all airflow to the radiator.

I pulled my AC (but then again, I'm in Edmonton, it's +3 degrees in June)...

RX7MAN03 06-19-07 02:20 AM

You may be lucky and find a new smaller more thicker type condensor to use with your A/C (maybe mount it on the passenger side inner well..(kinda like how the oil cooler is mounted on the otherside), it seems as tho you have pretty wide front mount on your car..(apexi maybe>+?)...reguardless these cars tend to over heat a good amount, living in florida id start to search for a different place to mount a diff. style condenser..good luck...

hanman 06-19-07 08:41 AM

And as far as the "rings" we are talking about, they are present at every connection. Every hose etc. They are what keeps the seal at every connection. There will be two on the compressor where the hoses attach. Just trace every hose and wherever it terminates/connects will be an oring.

neit_jnf 07-03-07 07:58 PM

any how-to about replacing the expansion valve?


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