im think im ****, please HELP!
i am so fucking frusturated right now i feel like pushing my car off a cliff. its times like these that really make me want to sell my fd, and i do love my car...
i am currently in the middle of my neverending pain in the ass vacuum hose job, and i am now at the part where i have to remove the solenoid rack. i got the #2 phillips bit to work excellent for me on all four screws on the front, and all the screws on the back, except for the top one in the back of the rack. that was the last one, so i was almost home free, until I STRIPPED THE GODDAMN HEAD!!! now there is not enough room to drill it out, and the fucking rack is stuck in there with a newly discovered broken turbo control solenoid to boot... WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW????!!!????? please HELP! i am so desperate to get this screw out. i have already worked at it for over an hour, making no progress at all. again, there is no way i can fit a drill in that small space, and there are fuel lines in the way anyway. is there any way i can use some type of manual drill that will fit in at that sharp of an angle? is there some type of "easy out" type bit i can use in my ratchet socket??? im sure something like this has happened to someone here before, they talk about stripping the solenoid rack screws so much on the "how to" sites... what would you recommend trying??? please help me out here guys, i am so pissed right now. i need to get this one screw out so i can get on with this and fix my car. PLEASE HELP ME. |
http://www.ronhazelton.com/html/toolbag8_1.html
there's a thing called the screw extractor...but you need to drill a small hole first....and then you can use a tapping wrench and remove it by hand...never used it before though...just read about it on the internet. also I saw some kind of stuff at home depot(hardware store) you put the goo in the head and then place your screw driver in and when it dries it will form a new head and you can just unscrew it..again never used it before and lastly you can just weld a screw driver on there David |
thanks for the advice david,
its just that i dont think theres any room to fit a drill to drill a hole to start the easy out, and there are fuel lines that kinda obscure it too, so it probably isnt a good idea unless there is some type of manual drill that is shaped to clear the firewall that would work. is there such a tool that i can get my hands on? the glue/goo stuff sounds kinda good, i mite try that tomorrow. keep the advice coming guys. |
Same thing happened to me. TH eonly way I found to get them out was to use needle nose vice grips, adn clamp onto the side of them. It is tight, but hte scew heads are soft, adn the vise grip gets a great bite.
REgualr vice grips willn ot work, you haev to get the needle nose ones. THey work great. Let us know how it worked out. Cheers |
no you're going about it all wrong. I just finished the vacuum job a few weeks ago, and what you need to do is disconnect the fuel lines and remove the ignition coils and pull the WHOLE rack out, including the brace part that kind of straddles the engine. Its a lot easier to get out than trying to get at those pesky screws while they're still in the engine bay. Once you pull it out, you can easily attack the screws on your workbench.
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Originally posted by nrolfes1 no you're going about it all wrong. I just finished the vacuum job a few weeks ago, and what you need to do is disconnect the fuel lines and remove the ignition coils and pull the WHOLE rack out, including the brace part that kind of straddles the engine. Its a lot easier to get out than trying to get at those pesky screws while they're still in the engine bay. Once you pull it out, you can easily attack the screws on your workbench. You will have pull a bunch more lines. But, you will be able to get at everything easily. It is much better to have the entire bracket and rack out on the work bench. If you need any solenoids in the rack let me know. I have two at home, and an extra purge control one too. Just to let you know. All solenoids in the "rack" are interchangeable. They are all the exact same. I also have an extra set of the rack hard lines. Basically it is the hard lines, and bracketry that make up the rack. No solenoids....if you strip the bracket out or something...you might be able to use my extra one. Let me know... Later, Patrick |
Set a flat head screw driver or a chisel diagonally on the head of the screw and hit it with a hammer. Make sure you're hitting it in the right direction. It might take a few good whacks, but once you break it loose you can use the screwdriver again.
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Originally posted by nrolfes1 no you're going about it all wrong. I just finished the vacuum job a few weeks ago, and what you need to do is disconnect the fuel lines and remove the ignition coils and pull the WHOLE rack out, including the brace part that kind of straddles the engine. Its a lot easier to get out than trying to get at those pesky screws while they're still in the engine bay. Once you pull it out, you can easily attack the screws on your workbench. |
Well i just went throw the same thing you did except i have drilled out every damn screw on the thing but everyone told me to tak ethe whole thing out, tried that, nvm that. What i did what got a 5/32 drill just kinda scratched the top of the head and i got a small screw driver and tap it scraight down and then at an angel to turn it and did that about 20 times and got them booth out.
hope that works for you ~Luke |
At least your sideskirts shipped today...:D
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thanks kz1, the vice grips worked pretty easily. it took a little while though, the space is so cramped in there. now all i have to do is keep track of where all those crazy hoses connect to after taking off the rack. damn, everything down there is hella greasy.
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