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Resize them so that they're less than 250kb, then just upload them when you post a reply under 'manage attachements.'
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so do the irons look ok?
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my reman failed about about 6 months....junk
this time I went with a ground-up rebuild from RX-7 World....3 mm seals, new housings, the works (used rotors, however, just polished, I personally believe rotors can be reused many times) to quote scrub, third motors' a charm (so far) |
cool. but how do the grooves look where the coolant seal goes on the iron
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Based on the pics the irons are ok, but those seals are completely toast. What exactly did you do to the motor?
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i have never had it over headed on the road. i did one dyno day and it got a little hot because the shops fan couldn't push ebough air to keep cool but other than that i cant think of anything else that ive done. changed the coolant regularly and everything.
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Originally Posted by 2007 ZX-10R
(Post 8036542)
my reman failed about about 6 months....junk
this time I went with a ground-up rebuild from RX-7 World....3 mm seals, new housings, the works (used rotors, however, just polished, I personally believe rotors can be reused many times) to quote scrub, third motors' a charm (so far) My reman failed after 150 miles. What a joke. I made a crate for my original motor (lucky I still had it) and it is getting shipped to Pettit. I will never put a reman in any of my cars again. Seriously, what a joke... |
yeah if i had owned the car when the motor was replaced, that wouldnt have happened.
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BTW, im sending my motor off to a guy i know that works in a machine shop to have it ported and then i can finally finish my single project!
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quick question, does the intermediate iron get ported also with a half-bridge?
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It typically gets a streetport. The secondaries (on the end housings) are the ones that get the bridge.
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ok cool just making sure. and do ypu go with a streetport on the exhaust port on the housings also?
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My seals were in a similar state. Irons were fine-no corrosion at all. Plates were within spec, just the outer water seal had corroded badly enough to leak water into the chamber. I renewed all hard and soft seals, done almost 5000miles now including a few track days still going strong. I put it down to fatigue of 16 year old seals.
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Those seals look severely burned (or as Goodfella said, toasted). You obviously had a LOT of hot exhaust getting to, and past, the seals. Reminds me of what caused the space shuttle disaster...
Dave |
Originally Posted by catch-22
(Post 7988936)
so i get from home work tonight and drive my car into the garage and go inside. i go back out to the car and start it to get some grub and it stuggles to start and when it does it blows a huge white cloud out the back and my heart sank. ths has to be the coolant seals correct???i took the cap off and looked at the coolant and it was bubbleing like crazy and i oulled the dipstick to check for coolant in the oil and sure enough there it was so. i dont know how this happened because it only has 25,000 miles on the reman and never been overheated scense its been in my posession. is it rebuild time? and just the coolant seals can be replaced correct?
USE... STOCK... COOLANT... O-RINGS! There. :) B |
Originally Posted by catch-22
(Post 8040312)
ok cool just making sure. and do ypu go with a streetport on the exhaust port on the housings also?
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Originally Posted by catch-22
(Post 8037276)
yeah if i had owned the car when the motor was replaced, that wouldnt have happened.
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i mean that i wouldn't have put a reman in it. yeah i thought that sounded weird when i wrote it.
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Originally Posted by BDC
(Post 8040887)
If you get it rebuilt...
USE... STOCK... COOLANT... O-RINGS! There. :) B |
Originally Posted by catch-22
(Post 8043366)
i mean that i wouldn't have put a reman in it. yeah i thought that sounded weird when i wrote it.
Yeah, I didn't want to put a reman in it but that is what I had. ugh :wallbash: |
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