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Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 7906667)
Well, I actually live in Atlanta, currently in Miami, but moving to Philadelphia. Drove down here to visit my sisters and register my car away from the emissions nazis.
I don't know why we are still debating about motor oils. After I read this post: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052 I started using 0w-40 in my car. Can someone (after reading the above in its entirety) tell me why this is wrong? Wow that is the greatest post on oil ever. And i have to take that guys word for it because of the actual cars these people are driving ;) |
Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 7906667)
Well, I actually live in Atlanta, currently in Miami, but moving to Philadelphia. Drove down here to visit my sisters and register my car away from the emissions nazis.
I don't know why we are still debating about motor oils. After I read this post: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052 I started using 0w-40 in my car. Can someone (after reading the above in its entirety) tell me why this is wrong? I've considered and heard good results from running a motorcycle synthetic oil in our cars for that same shear resistance reason. The bike oils are formulated to work through the transmission which would definately require the same shear characteristics that our gears would. I may actually give it a try this summer. Also don't forget that our cars suffer from fuel dillution very quickly which will kill just about any oil, which is why we require such short change intervals. I know that Dave has talked about doing test on the BioSyn oils that supposedly helped with that issue on DI cars, and I'm looking forward to the results. Unfortunately I think that in the end, as long as you're changing your oil at proper/reasonable intervals (2K for me) then it's going to be pretty hard to have an oil related failure if you're buying good stuff. which negates the need for countless threads of discussion. If you're looking for more, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and spend your next few months reading. |
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 7906910)
The downside to a 0w-40 is that is uses viscosity index improvers. These are long chain polymers that thicken the oil when hot. (You start with 0w-25, and with the VIIs you get to 0w-40). Same with Syntec 5w-50 - that kind of viscosity doesn't come naturally.
These polymers don't burn as cleanly as plain dino or synthetic oil. I've been looking for more info on that point but so far I've found little - no mfr wants to talk about these VIIs since they're not too proud of them. If you're going for long oil change intervals (which FD owners don't do) the polymer chains will be the first thing to break down. Dave |
To answer the original question, I would change the oil apperently other additives are the worst thing you can to to the specially crafted factory formulation.
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Originally Posted by adam c
(Post 7905312)
It's winter here ............ Today :). That just means that its raining ;)
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Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 7908027)
On my old FC I was running 15w-50 as recommended by the engine builder. I started running the 0w-40 in my FD after reading various articles about it such as the one mentioned above. My biggest concern was start-up. Since they claim that that is the hardest time on the engine. Is it the same for rotaries? Also from that article, it pretty much says that at normal operating temperature, all the oils are about the same. My logic was why put something in that will give to wear at startup and not make a significant difference at regular operating temperatures?
It's a tradeoff, obviously. As with anything, UOAs are the true and best test. Dave |
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